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Old 11-22-2010, 06:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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P0380

Truck was a no start this morning. Ran it through the normal free prime a few times, still nothing. Pulled the codes and I got a P0380 which states intake heater malfunction. I have the manual for the monster, but other than giving a picture of the intake grid, it says nothing about how to test one. Can anyone enlighten me? I have 12+ volts from the battery to the relay (naturally), but that's where it stops. Could it be one or both of the relays? If so, do I need to remove them to test? Thanks.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You're in luck. The 01 FSM is at pdftown. I also saw a member here hosting it. Look up the operation in the FSM. I saw it when I had problems but haven't fooled with it since. A shop left the wiring to my heaters disconnected & stuffed under the battery. They haven't worked on my truck since.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Well, duh. I just didn't dig far enough. 4-100 section is the one. Looks as if I need to pull the relays and see what's up. Any idea if the truck will crank with only one relay working one grid, or do you need both grids?
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Mine will start without grids depending on how cold it is. It doesn't get very cold in TN. Runs rough until it is warmed up. My computer friends have an acronym - RTFM or something like that. Glad you found it.
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Old 11-27-2010, 01:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I also got a code P0216 (timing) malfunction. Can someone guide me toward reconciling this problem, as well. Thanks Junkman, for your help. Since the grids aren't absolutely necessary to fire it off, maybe the P0216 is the key.
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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0216 points to VP. Try adding abunch of stanadyne lubricity. I lost a VP and a reman MWFI VP because of gas in the fuel. My replacement for the MWFI pump threw a 0216 twice. I loaded it up with lubricity & cleared codes. They haven't come back. (8 months until warranty is out).

Now your reasearch begins. Check out BlueChip's site for diagnostics. Search here & other forums. You want to be certain before throwing a VP at it.
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Last edited by Junkman; 11-27-2010 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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P0380 is one of the grids, P0382 is the other one. If one relay is giving you issues, might as well replace both. As it turns out, when you order OEM relays for the grids, they come as a pair. If you're going to replace the relays with aftermarket like starter relays, just do them both at the same time.
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the responses. I feel "duh", but I re-read my posts and left out a little information. Sorry. The day before this happened, the low fuel pressure light (after market) came on while driving. I was putting out 12 -13 lbs pressure according to my fuel pressure gauge (manual gauge). Since they were both fed at the same location, and it wasn't odd for the light to come on (electrical sending unit) I relied on the pressure gauge giving me a better reading. I'll try replacing the solenoids and will report back.
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Test the solenoids like testing a old starter relay. Jump the coil winding appropiatelly and feel the heater warm up. follow the wiring, it ain't rocket science.
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dozer12216 View Post
Test the solenoids like testing a old starter relay. Jump the coil winding appropiatelly and feel the heater warm up. follow the wiring, it ain't rocket science.
It ain't rocket science, but there are those who can make it look like it is!
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Jumpered the solenoids and they both kicked in properly. So it appears they are not getting a signal to turn on from somewhere, probably the ECM? I am doing all I can to keep from replacing the VP, working my way upward. I bled 1,3,4 injectors to see if there was air, and there was, so I got the air out of those. Still the only code that sticks is P0380 and P0382. If anyone thinks of what else I can do, please let me know.
Some people can follow wiring in looms under all that garbage, but it is a test to me.
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Make sure that the grids are connected correctly. I had a shop disconnect them and tuck the wires under the battery. Someone rigged a switch to manually run the grids.

Add some lubricity or 2-stroke to your fuel. 0216 isn't to be fooled with especially in the winter. Where did the air come from? Check your lines & the T. If T leaks, replace grommets. Order from Cummins ~ $4 each. You'll need 3.
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