The 47RE Line Pressure and Gov Pressure issues - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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Old 09-05-2009, 04:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lightbulb The 47RE Line Pressure and Gov Pressure issues

I told Twogun I was going to try and assist him in fixing his problem:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twogun View Post
For over a year I have been dealing with my trans. going into limp mode. When it happens it won't shift below 3rd on it's own and will only go to 2nd manually, not 1st. I have changed out both the Gov solenoid and the pressure sensor in the valve body to no avail. Dave Goerend had me install a resistor in a wire from the PCM to the trans and it did not work either. All of the repairs worked for a week or two but the problem always came back. Dave Goerend suggested a reflash of my computor but the dealer says I have the latest flash in my 02. Anyone have any ideas? Also what would a dealer charge for a reflash? Twogun
This is extremely common in the 47RE and 46RE (44re and 42re could be as well). And it can be a number of things causing this as well! Gov solenoid, gov pressure transducer (sensor), PCM, wires from the PCM to the V/B(Valve Body), internal V/B and line pressure set too high. There can be other factors that cause this as well, but these show up like clock work. There are ways to trouble shoot these, but being we are on the Cummins Forum we like to skip over the trouble shooting thing often. (not a good thing)

Being Twogun already went over gov transducer, gov solenoid, and PCM. That leaves only internal valve body issues, wires to the PCM to VB, or line pressure cranked wrong. Line Pressure being set too high is the most likely scenario in this case.

The gov pressure solenoid receives line pressure and what comes out is the gov pressure. So when line pressure is set too high, gov pressure follows. (Governor pressure is suppose to read around 1PSI for every 1MPH.) The solution: Reduce line pressure.



To adjust you take a 3/16 allen wrench and grind it down so you can adjust line pressure without removing the valvebody. Clockwise to reduce pressure. (Counter-Clockwise to increase pressure) Every turn knocks it down around 1.5-2 PSI



On the right side of the filter is the governor body. The round thing, protected by the U shaped plate is the solenoid and the sensor behind that with the 3 wires is the transducer.

Another sided:



Often times these sensors get replaced with aftermarket sensors to allow higher line pressures and/or resister(s) get put in wire(s). BTW the pictures are from a 46RE for those wondering about the exhaust pipes.

Disclaimer:


I take no responsibility for any damage done.
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks Philly!

I sure want to thank you for all the trouble you took to post these pictures and answer my post! I will try this on Monday and let you know if it cures the problem. Thanks again! Twogun
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Old 09-06-2009, 06:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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By going into limp in, there should be a fault code. That would help in diagnois. The dealer's DRB111 scan tool would be invaluable to diagnois as it can look at most electrical inputs and outputs for correct values.
Resetting line pressure without a pressure test is wasted effort. First off, if throttle cable not set properly, line pressure can be wrong.
Doubt you need a reflash, again wasted effort if latest flash in unit.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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P1763 code

Last time we scanned the code 1763 came up, Gov pressure sensor voltage to high. Have since replaced the Gov solenoid and the pressure sensor to no avail. The program in the computor is from the Smarty programer and should be the latest as my truck never had the high idle warmup feature before. When I last tried fixing this issue with the replacement of the pressure sensor it worked fine till I put in the Smarty economy program, that day it started acting up again. Coincidence or not? How do you adjust the throttle cable, mine does have some play in it? Twogun
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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so can i adjust the pressure on my stock valve body to help my trans hold better or do i need to get a better one
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyssss10 View Post
so can i adjust the pressure on my stock valve body to help my trans hold better or do i need to get a better one
If your pressure is off yes. If you are good with shift kits, there are things you can do to these, free. 2 check balls that can be removed, plenty of holes to be drilled or bored out, and their are ways to modify valves as well.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Throttle cable adjsutment: Three inch lever on left side of tranny case. Shift lever is below. This lever must be fully forward. There should be no slop in throttle cable and any movement of pedal should cause a corresponding mover of lever. The cable at APPS has a unlocking device that is tricky. When unlocked you can move the cable housing in or out, thereby adjusting the cable. Relock housing clip. This adjustment is very important in getting shift correctlly and pressure correct for shifts. a error of .015 will effect shifting!!!
Has anyone suggested removing your chip. You seem to indicate tranny was fixed until ""it worked fine till I put in the Smarty economy program, that day it started acting up again. Coincidence or not? "". This might be telling you something as few things are coincidence in my findings.
Is the old code still popping up?
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Removed Smarty

I took the Smarty off a long time ago for driveability issues but assumed that if there was an issue with the program it would be erased when I with withdrew the program. And yes the code still comes up. Thanks! Twogun
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Last edited by Twogun; 09-07-2009 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Success

Dropped the pan today and turned the pressure screw one full turn clockwise. Put the pan and fluid back in and took it for a hard run. I drove it harder than I would ever think of driving with full throttle runs up hills and no limp mode. Checked all the cable tensions and the only one with any slack comes form the pedal in the cab. All else checks out. Thanks too all who helped an particularly Philly! Will wait and see if it holds and will post it if any issues. Twogun
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Old 09-25-2009, 05:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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update

Last week after dropping the pan 4 times to let tension off the spring in the valve body it finally quit going into limp mode. By this time I had let all the tension out on the spring so was probaly running low pressure but no way to tell without testing. With this setting I was worried that my trans. wouldn't hold up with my power mods. I contacted Dave Goerend and he next day shipped me a VBA ( valve body assistant ) with directions. It also had me bypass the resistor that was wired inline to the transmission valve body. Then I dropped the pan again and reset the spring back to the original setting I started with. So far one week in use with no issues and have towed heavy and at higher speeds.
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Whats the valvebody assistant? Is it like a voltage regulator, essentially a potentiometer?

My trans has been working fine for a while, and the other night at the track it was working fine. However, on the way back it started going into limp. But it only does it if I go into O/D. At the track I was catching O/D hard and pulling it, and It wasn't going into limp then, so I'm not really sure whats up. Before I had installed a voltage regulator on it, it would go into limp in any gear. Now it only goes in if I run in O/D. I can drive it all day long with O/D off and it won't go into limp. Even if I force lock up its fine. So I'm not really sure what is specifically causing this.
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Old 10-03-2009, 07:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Cal Goerend

Dave Goerend built my transmission and he provided it to me. Look up his web site or call 563-778-2719. I have no idea what it is. It's about the size of a small SD card for a camera with 3 wires coming out of it. You could also PM Phily as he is very helpful on our trans. issues. Twogun
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