Blown Head Gasket NEED HELP!!

[jmd025]

Originally Posted by mjd91

750 egt's with 125's and a juice!!! Sonethings wrong here.

165 ft lbs on the studs and 34 psi max boost too

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Louisiana Coalrollers!

VE-P-VP

My trucks are modded.

[JSPulliam21]

2+2=22????

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98.5 3500 QC LB NV4500 4x4 3.55 SRW, DiPricol gauges, BHAF, 4" Silverline, FBD 150's, Edge Comp, Valair 3800 DD, Draw Straw, 1/2" Filter to IP Line, FASS 95HPFP, 2" Leveling Kit, DSS, 35" Toyo M/T, KDP killed 403HP/899 TQ

[DIESELGUY84]

1)165 is wayy too much, IMHO I don't see the need for more than 135. Studs may be stretched? might contact ARP on that one.
2)Make sure the head and block surfaces are CLEAN.
3)Make sure the gasket is centered on both of the dowell pins in the block. (with you're mods a Cummins o.e.m. should be fine.
4)Dont damage the gasket when seting the head on the egine, don't let the head slide side to side on the gasket.
5)Install studs in the block hand tight. Use an allen wrench for traction only.
6)be sure to coat the washers, threads on the studs, threads on the nuts with a good assembly lube. (silver antisieze compound works fine)
7)Tourque the studs starting in the middle working you're way to the ends of the cylinder head in a clockwise pattern
8)Torque all studs to 60 ft-lbs, then 80 ft-lbs, recheck all studs to 80ft-lbs again. Then final torque to 125ft-lbs.
9)Install pushrods, rocker arms etc. adjust valves.
10)Bring engine to operating temp. retorque all studs to 125ft-lbs
11)Adjust valves again .008" intake, .018" exhaust works when the engine's hot.
12)After about a weeks worth of driving pull the valve cover and re-torque them again to 125 ftlbs, if none of the nuts tighten down any more you should be good to go.

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Daily driver/Tow rig: White '99 CTD sport 4X4, BD tow twins and Exh. brake, RV275 styx, Adrenaline, Valair Kevlar ceramic clutch. 19-21MPG. Budget bracket racer: Blue '94 CTD 4X4, mostly stock for now, except for the built tranny.

[CUMGETSUM]

Originally Posted by DIESELGUY84

1)165 is wayy too much, IMHO I don't see the need for more than 135. Studs may be stretched? might contact ARP on that one.
2)Make sure the head and block surfaces are CLEAN.
3)Make sure the gasket is centered on both of the dowell pins in the block. (with you're mods a Cummins o.e.m. should be fine.
4)Dont damage the gasket when seting the head on the egine, don't let the head slide side to side on the gasket.
5)Install studs in the block hand tight. Use an allen wrench for traction only.
6)be sure to coat the washers, threads on the studs, threads on the nuts with a good assembly lube. (silver antisieze compound works fine)
7)Tourque the studs starting in the middle working you're way to the ends of the cylinder head in a clockwise pattern
8)Torque all studs to 60 ft-lbs, then 80 ft-lbs, recheck all studs to 80ft-lbs again. Then final torque to 125ft-lbs.
9)Install pushrods, rocker arms etc. adjust valves.
10)Bring engine to operating temp. retorque all studs to 125ft-lbs
11)Adjust valves again .008" intake, .018" exhaust works when the engine's hot.
12)After about a weeks worth of driving pull the valve cover and re-torque them again to 125 ftlbs, if none of the nuts tighten down any more you should be good to go.

Did everything that you have listed in that order except #12, and the reason is a diesel builder told me that he always torques them high like I did that way he never has to go back and do #12 on your list. So now that I see that does not work I will follow your list.

As far as my ARP studs they are brand new, I just installed them for this last go around.

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[CUMGETSUM]

As far as my egt number ( 750 ), that is the highest I have seen will getting on it.

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[mjd91]

Your EGT's should be waayyy higher than that. Are you sure it wasn't 1750?

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2000 short, 4x4, 6 speed, 12.25" DD Valair, S.O.VP44, AEM Brute Force HD, FBD 5" with 6" tip, ADRENALINE!!!, AirDog II 165, AutoMeter Cobalts, 35" Mud Grapplers on 18" Black XD Diesels

[gator_grabber]

165 lbs on those studs is way high and 750 is way low on the EGT. Something is seriously wrong here. Where is the temp probe located?

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1999 Dodge Ram 2500, QC/SB, 2WD, auto, RV275s, Edge w Attitude, AFE Stage 2, AirDog 150, BioDiesel, Bilstein Shocks, B&W turnover hitch, Firestone airbags, RDS toolbox/60 gallon tank combo, Sport headlight conversion with HD relays, Bosch Compact 100 fog lights

[CUMGETSUM]

I have called 3 different people now with questions and I got 3 different answers on what to do. I told all 3 the same thing on what I have.

Who would be the best person to listen to for advice on what to do and how to fix my problem. PM me the contact info. THANKS!!!!!

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Eating Fords and sh!ttin chevys

[gator_grabber]

Call ARP for the proper stud torque and use Cummins head gasket and torque sequence. After all, these are the guys who made the parts...

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1999 Dodge Ram 2500, QC/SB, 2WD, auto, RV275s, Edge w Attitude, AFE Stage 2, AirDog 150, BioDiesel, Bilstein Shocks, B&W turnover hitch, Firestone airbags, RDS toolbox/60 gallon tank combo, Sport headlight conversion with HD relays, Bosch Compact 100 fog lights

[DIESELGUY84]

Originally Posted by CUMGETSUM

Did everything that you have listed in that order except #12, and the reason is a diesel builder told me that he always torques them high like I did that way he never has to go back and do #12 on your list. So now that I see that does not work I will follow your list.

As far as my ARP studs they are brand new, I just installed them for this last go around.

#10 is a pretty important step too.

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Daily driver/Tow rig: White '99 CTD sport 4X4, BD tow twins and Exh. brake, RV275 styx, Adrenaline, Valair Kevlar ceramic clutch. 19-21MPG. Budget bracket racer: Blue '94 CTD 4X4, mostly stock for now, except for the built tranny.

[CUMGETSUM]

Originally Posted by DIESELGUY84

#10 is a pretty important step too.

10)Bring engine to operating temp. retorque all studs to 125ft-lbs

Are you suppose to re-torque when the engine is hot?

That is just against anything I have ever been taught about gas engines.

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[patracy]

First of all, this isn't a gas engine. Very few schools of thought apply to both.

1. Where is your EGT probe? 750F is SUPER LOW. My truck runs about 700F just crusing. If the probe is post turbo in the downpipe, add 200F at least. But even still, your EGT's are too low. If it's blowing coal, it's likely your probe is bad.

2.

Did everything that you have listed in that order except #12, and the reason is a diesel builder told me that he always torques them high like I did that way he never has to go back and do #12 on your list. So now that I see that does not work I will follow your list.

No offence, but your "diesel builder" is incompetent. That practice might save him from having to go back in and re-torque. But you've seen first hand IT DOESN'T WORK. Trying to cut corners has only costed you more time and money.


3. You're asking on who you should believe, why not believe the members of this forum whom have installed studs on many of trucks without all these issues you keep having?

4. Yes, you need to bring it up to temp. Have you noticed how long the head is on our engines? Think how easy it is to misalign a larger object. Also what does heat do to metal? It causes it to expand. That's the reason it needs another torque down.

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. 462hp and 920ft-lbs 11/14/09, I know I can get 500hp...