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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 24V Forums > 98.5-02 Powertrain
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98.5-02 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .

 


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Old 06-14-2009, 10:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm with patracy on this. Just cranking down on the studs and calling it a day will almost insure something bad is going to happen. Also, over-torquing a bolt/stud only makes things worse, not better!
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Most torque the ARP's to about 125ft-lbs. The thicker marine gaskets are nice too. I also like the suggestion of the copper spray. The reasons you're likely having problems is two fold. They need heat cycles and re-torques. And you're basically "squishing" the gasket out with that high of a torque. Factory head bolts are a torque to yield. Meaning they act like a spring. They pull the head down, while the head gasket acts as a spring to push the head away from the block. Both have to achive a "balance" to keep the head sealed to the block. Too much "spring" on the pull side, and the gasket spring colapses. Since your studs aren't meant to act like a spring, They simply pull the head down on the gasket. They don't stretch (relaitively speaking) allowing for greater clamping force. Since they're not a "spring", they need to be rechecked to ensure they're all even after the first install.
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:33 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yep, what he said!
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Old 06-14-2009, 03:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Seems odd that it blew in the exact same place both times though dosnt it?
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Old 06-14-2009, 03:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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That is the most common spot in a 24v with high cylinder pressure to blow. My guess is drive pressure is way out of control. The fact that he is just cranking down on the studs with no rhyme or reason doesnt help the matter.
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Old 06-14-2009, 03:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It's not really that surprising, you should see how much the deck and head surfaces move around when subjected to fastener clamping pressure. That's why good builders use deck plates when machining both the block and heads. Some even go so far as to heat and pressurize the water passages to operating temps. Even hanging a block on an engine stand, using just the bell housing bolts, distorts the rear cylinder bores! Many top engine builders use special stands that support both the front and back of the block.
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Old 06-14-2009, 05:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Southernsmoke what is drive pressure?
Drive pressure is the pressure in the exhaust manifold that drives the turbine wheel, you want it to be around or close to a 1:1 ratio with turbo boost, its the expansion of heat gasses exerting pressure on the turbine wheel, causing the inducer to spin, thus sucking in air, creating charger boost, if your drive pressures get too high above your boost, it means your turbo is working out of its efficieny range, thus temps will start to go up, egt's will climb, you will expierence pre-mature gasket failures, and possibilty of detonating a turbo...
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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are you torquing the studs in the right order? ive seen plenty of people start in the front and go back, by the time they get to the rear the front of the gasket was crushed so thin it usually doesnt last 500 miles.
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Drive pressure is the pressure in the exhaust manifold that drives the turbine wheel, you want it to be around or close to a 1:1 ratio with turbo boost, its the expansion of heat gasses exerting pressure on the turbine wheel, causing the inducer to spin, thus sucking in air, creating charger boost, if your drive pressures get too high above your boost, it means your turbo is working out of its efficieny range, thus temps will start to go up, egt's will climb, you will expierence pre-mature gasket failures, and possibilty of detonating a turbo...
I have the egt gauge that is on the monitor and it has never got over 750 but I dont know how high it can go before you have problems.

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are you torquing the studs in the right order? ive seen plenty of people start in the front and go back, by the time they get to the rear the front of the gasket was crushed so thin it usually doesnt last 500 miles.
They were torqued in the order that the guy from cummins told me to. I will have to double check and see what that is, I have it wrote down.
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:54 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I have the egt gauge that is on the monitor and it has never got over 750 but I dont know how high it can go before you have problems.

Thats all I got to say about that...

They were torqued in the order that the guy from cummins told me to. I will have to double check and see what that is, I have it wrote down.
your supose to start in the middle and work your way out going both ways.
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Old 06-14-2009, 11:03 PM   #23 (permalink)
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All these numbers aren't adding up
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Old 06-14-2009, 11:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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750 egt's with 125's and a juice!!! Sonethings wrong here.
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