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Old 06-07-2009, 01:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Clutch Hydraulics Bleed HELP

Long story short: clutch hydraulics failed, sourced replacement slave and master in BFEast Texas, Air trapped in system.

i have some pedal, but not what it should be. retro spec shows i should have bought complete assy from dealer after looking on here, but i have what i have...

instructions show final bleeding procedure after installation:

1. locate attachment point of master cylinder pushrod on clutch pedal. remove pushrod from clutch pedal. remove neutral safety switch from pushrod.

2. locate master cylinder piston circlip (near where pushrod snaps into master cylinder). remove circlip.

3. using pushrod, carefully pull master cylinder piston out of master cylinder body until brake fluid weeps from around master cylinder piston.

4. push master cylinder piston back into the body and reassemble. pedal should be come firmer after several pumps...


has anyone tried this and what are your results?
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Old 06-07-2009, 03:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i've had a master problem befor and i the only around it i found was buying a new one becuase they come pre bred..and a quick snap clip thats kinda a one time use only.....and to warn you i paid 303$ for it..only dodge stocks parts for the clutch slave

i work in a full time mehcanic shop with 6 mehcanics...we couldn't find away around buying a new one....with getting a good pedal
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Old 06-07-2009, 05:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i did one at work a few weeks back. all i did was on the slave cylinder, i pushed the pushrod all the way in and fill the cylinder right full of fluid and then put it back together. i replaced both the slave and the master. the pedal felts loose for a while but after just pushing it in and out for a while it started to work.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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for clarification, i installed a new master cylinder and slave cylinder already. the problem i have is there is some air trapped in the system.

the truck is drivable. if the truck sits for a couple hours, the point where the clutch disengages/engages is closer to the floor then normal.
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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plain and simple you can't bleed it
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopartechnician View Post
plain and simple you can't bleed it
thanks for the insight....
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopartechnician View Post
plain and simple you can't bleed it
Wrong.
Yes you can bleed them. Here's a link: Hydraulic Clutch
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Wrong.
Yes you can bleed them. Here's a link: Hydraulic Clutch
i have read that information and will do it as a last result. the biggest issue i have with that method is that i cant get the master cylinder pushrod out of the master cylinder to ease the removal process.
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So... I just got my truck back from AAMCO and the release point is all FUBAR. Could it be that I just have to let it "warm up" or is there something wrong?
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Try this

I used a break resivor bleeder. Its a bottle you fill with break fluidd and pump it in the master cylynder. As I pumped the bottle it forced the air out. Worked great!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLVG View Post
So... I just got my truck back from AAMCO and the release point is all FUBAR. Could it be that I just have to let it "warm up" or is there something wrong?
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopawer View Post
I used a break resivor bleeder. Its a bottle you fill with break fluidd and pump it in the master cylynder. As I pumped the bottle it forced the air out. Worked great!!
what is this break resivor bleeder your referring to and where can i find one?
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Old 06-11-2009, 12:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Read about bleeding it here.

Hydraulic Clutch
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