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Old 02-09-2010, 10:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhooking the grid heater

Hey guys, I'm going to unhook my grid heater when it gets a little warmer here and was wondering what I should do. Do I just remove the two wires bolted onto the grid heater and tape them up or pull a fuse or what? What do you all do when you do a grid heater delete? Thanks.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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why would you wanna do that?

this would be better suited posting in the non powertrain threads....but too late now
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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they make actual delete blocks so youd unplug the old one and romove it install the new piece. but there not a real need to do that. Your truck have fun with it
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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they make actual delete blocks so youd unplug the old one and romove it install the new piece. but there not a real need to do that. Your truck have fun with it
what he said
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes, I know they make a delete block but I just want to unhook it during the warmer months b/c there has been talk about the grid heaters drawing so much juice that it may contribute to vp44 failure, premature battery failure, etc. That way I can just hook it back up when it gets around 20* or colder.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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where did ya hear that? got a link for that answer?
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by silverado046.0 View Post
Yes, I know they make a delete block but I just want to unhook it during the warmer months b/c there has been talk about the grid heaters drawing so much juice that it may contribute to vp44 failure, premature battery failure, etc. That way I can just hook it back up when it gets around 20* or colder.
They won't come on unless its cold enough to need them. I forget the temp off the top of my head, but they won't come on in the summer.

The grid heaters won't be killing you VP any time soon.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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cummins designed its engine and charging systems to handle this. It should in no way cause any problems. If you plug your truck in the grid heater wont have to cycle as much. if your losing charge check your alt to see what its charging at. Batteries are fully charged at 12.66 thats 100% charge. they shouldnt be below 12.3-12.2 if they are then you need to trickle charge the battery or batteries. like i said no point to doing this. ur vp shouldnt die from this either. if it does then it was going out already
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cumminonu View Post
cummins designed its engine and charging systems to handle this. It should in no way cause any problems. If you plug your truck in the grid heater wont have to cycle as much. if your losing charge check your alt to see what its charging at. Batteries are fully charged at 12.66 thats 100% charge. they shouldnt be below 12.3-12.2 if they are then you need to trickle charge the battery or batteries. like i said no point to doing this. ur vp shouldnt die from this either. if it does then it was going out already
Most fully charged batterys are between 12.6-12.8V and every .2 volt it drops denotes a drop in the state of charge,(approx a 1/4 of a charge) specific gravity also changes with temperature
12.8 full charge
12.6 3/4 charge
12.4 1/2 charge
12.2 1/4 charge
12.0 is no charge, as its less than specific gravity.

Cummins did not design the charging system to handle the electrical load, thats controlled by the PCM which is a dodge part,

he is correct the excessive load can cause issues with relays sticking and killing the battery or alternator, should both relays stick on the grids draw 90amp each and the alt can only output 130a so its about 50amps short.

also plugging in the truck WILL NOT stop the grids from cycling, its the IAT sensor that controls it, My truck on EVERY hot start (engine temp at 190F) will cycle the grids anytime the ambiant temp is less than 10C (not sure what that is in F) some trucks might be slightly different.
Mine did cause both grids to stick on and it ruined 2 newer batterys, since I use my truck as a courior, and it gets shut off at every loading dock I back up to, the grid relays got a serious work out. I wired mine up for manual use, the "wait to start" light will still cycle in the dash like its susposed to, only difference is I manually turn them on. this in my opinion limits the excessive load on the batterys and charging system

If you want to disable the grids just unhook the smaller wires on the drv side battery (positive post) this is the feed to the relays you dont even need to tape up the wire as if it grounds out nothing will happen, just tuck it out of the way. but as mentioned above if its above 10C the PCM wont cycle them anyway, so its a mute point to unhook them in the warmer weather, problem is in the colder weather
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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good info nick
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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here is a good link to "grid "stuff, has a link in there with diagnoising the grid system as well

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...+starter+grids
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:13 AM   #12 (permalink)
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LOL if you are having a hard time keeping a charge in your batteries, they are junk! replace them. i know mine are going south due to when my vp died and trying to get it runing(lots of cranking before i knew it was a dead vp)
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