Coolant Bypass Kits - Page 4 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
98.5-02 Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 98-02 Trucks No Advertising ...NO ADVERTISING

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post #37 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 08:32 AM
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After Googling aluminum vs copper Radiators it looks like a toss up. So you might be right

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All I did lol. Looked like copper just edges it out.


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post #38 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 12:00 PM
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Wouldn't have guessed that either.
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post #39 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 12:54 PM
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Just a heads up on the Built Tough radiators. The build quality is not so good and the shipping packing is poor. I received the first one that was pretty banged up in shipping due to the poor packing. The second one was damaged too, but not so bad. The second one also had to have the mounting brackets resoldered and a pinhole repaired. The mounting brackets are also a little flimsy and the radiator cap is a little loose. So, once all was said and done the savings were not so good. I like the copper/brass, but Mishimoto for me if this one goes out.

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post #40 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 02:57 PM
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I got it used on here cheap, and it was banged up. But I got it fixed up

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post #41 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 09:44 PM
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after reading this, i don't need the pressure relief, but do like the idea of the cooling benefits. being a sled head I was thinking of getting a rear bolt in plug and then machining it to put a polaris t stat in it (120*) so it will warm up a bit then open, and t it into the upper hose. Am I wasting my time?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...89199676941789

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post #42 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 12:51 AM
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after reading this, i don't need the pressure relief, but do like the idea of the cooling benefits. being a sled head I was thinking of getting a rear bolt in plug and then machining it to put a polaris t stat in it (120*) so it will warm up a bit then open, and t it into the upper hose. Am I wasting my time?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...89199676941789
Your just copy cating Fleece's design by doing that

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post #43 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 09:38 AM
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Your just copy cating Fleece's design by doing that

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true, but for about $75 give or take. lots of good info in this thread
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post #44 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 11:54 AM
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I got it used on here cheap, and it was banged up. But I got it fixed up

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How does your radiator cap fit on yours? By chance do you know the part number and brand of the radiator cap you have, if yours is a good fit as I cant seem to get a great seal on mine. Thanks!

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post #45 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 12:03 PM
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The cap does seem to fit a little funky, but I'm not sure of mine leaks or not yet, my trucks still apart. I will let you know. How much does yours leak?

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post #46 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 08:52 PM
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Just a dribble out of it after going out if I have drove it pretty hard.

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post #47 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 12:26 PM
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so here is a point of observation.....

copper brass radiators were used stock for years and years up until the early 90's late 80's. they switched, some would argue, for the weight savings due to tighter economic times and fuel shortages. however that doesn't take into account that aluminum, when properly setup, does cool better and more efficiently then copper brass. and a lot of that comes down to fin design. Copper brass is typically a tube fin design where you have stacked rows of tubes and fins layers on them. the aluminum ones have a more intricate fin design allowing for increased surface area.

as mentioned above aluminum has a lower heat transfer rate; however with better designed fins you increase the thermal efficiency to make up for this. and still end up with a radiator that will cool your vehicle and weighs considerably less.

that is my opinion on radiators; which tends to be supported by the increased cooling efficiency of the aluminum high performance radiators.



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post #48 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 02:50 PM
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I would say they switched for cost savings on material as copper/brass is expensive.my reasoning was it's heavy duty,I got it cheap and there's no plastic end tanks like the oem version.which makes it very repairable.aftermarket aluminum radiators are priced outrageous and have fitment issues from what I've read. I don't have a dog in the fight on aluminum vs copper,I picked it up because I popped a hole in my old one,and this seemed like a better option than one with plastic end tanks and I wasn't forking that kinda money out for aftermarket aluminum.ill post results to let you guys know the cooling differences if I notice any

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