You want MORE BOOST? Read here! - Page 10

1BadOilBurnerN-Lv · 10-09-2009, 02:32 AM

All i did is used a needle valve to block my waste gate , superchips , and i see 30-32 psi all day long

__________________
2000 2500 sport extended cab short box , 5-speed. 6 inch miter cut stacks , silencer ring M.I.A. , B.H.A.F. 355 gears , 6 inch long arm rcd lift and 37's SuperChips , fass pump

road_dawg6901 · 10-12-2009, 06:42 PM

i know this isn't healthy for a stock turbo or any turbo for that matter blocking the waste gate is a sure way of high numbers on your boost but be warned do this at your own risk turbos an head gaskets dont seem to like this route but if you got enough fuel goin you will see some high numbers

__________________

Cracked block cummins still making 400hp an 830 ftlbs of tq

dieselbeef · 10-15-2009, 10:01 AM

pinch off the wastegate..boost leaks...less timing..more fuel....

__________________
02 quad cab shortbed, silver, super b turbo,130 inj, drag comp, smarty, 6'' single cat stack, black beadlock rims,315's, holley black
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUFOk2rlvto

***mathews8pt*** · 10-15-2009, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stoowy

I'm still confused and frusterated...... I have all the elements to have high boost. Injecters, intake, exhaust, Quadzilla Adreniline Chip, J-Hook, SunCoast Tranny and I'm still boosting 24psi.... is that all that my hy35 can do??? My friend with a manual closed his,I think with wire.... and is boost in 35psi...... I'm tired of loosing to him, but don't wanna hurt my truck trying to win... Do I need a bigger turbo?

More than likely you have a boost leak

__________________
2000 QCSB, built auto, P7100, 131 dvs, 4gsk, .084 lines and tubes, 7 x .014s, 22*s, maxspool 2.5 cam, 110# valve springs, 125ft lb head bolts, 66/74/.9

ohiocoalrollers.com

Blue2003 · 10-20-2009, 10:23 PM

i agree...good info

__________________
'03 3500 S.R.W.Patriot Blue 2 wheel drive 6-speed quadcab s.w.b. SPS62/14,Smarty TNT,TST,PUCK,4"MBRP T-409 T.B., A.T.S. Arc Flow,A.F.E. Stage 2,60 lb.boostgauge,1600e.g.t.gauge,F.A.S.S. HPFP150, DiPricol Fuel,RailGauges Delete grid heater

theturbominivan · 10-22-2009, 11:16 PM

ok, bringing this back to the beginning topic a bit... essentially what you are doing with a J-hook is externally tightening the wastegate spring, and with a boost elbow you are basically adding a "restrictor" so the wastegate can sees less boost... keeping its spring tighter as it is now not being overcome by as much boost pressure.
i have been boosting my drag car for about 5 years now and i have tried about every concept known to man for raising boost, quick spikes, no spikes, quick response and so on. the best thing i have found is an $8-$11 brass ball and spring valve from grainger (acklands grainger in canada) or Mcmaster, and im kinda surprised i haven't heard of it in the diesel world.
these work amazing on gas engines/computers, and im really new to diesel but i dont see why this method couldn't work. tell me what you think....
here is the valve disassembled.

it is a ball and spring valve. when plugged in between the waste gate and boost source (turbo compressor in our case) the spring will keep the ball tightly sealed not allowing boost through from the turbo to the wastegate (making boost raise quickly) once the boost level begins to overcome the valves spring tension (which is totally adjustable for any boost level from stock to as much as you can handle) the ball is slowly pushed off its seat allowing boost around it and through the line to the wastegate. not only is this method totally adjustable, but it prevents boost spiking (shooting to say 30psi then slowly backing off to where its ACTUALLY set like 25 for example), boost creep, it spools very fast, its cheap, and once you have it set where you want it, you never have to touch it again except maybe take it apart and clean it once a year. ^mounted this way, all you need to remember is, the higher the spring tention in the valve, the higher the boost you will get.
any reason it couldn't work for a diesel?
ignore all the writing in the picture and the hole it says to drill (its unnecessary) but you get the general idea of how to mount it.

you can also mount the valve in different ways to get different effects like a slower spool with higher mid range boost.
ignore the brass restrictor in this picture and replace the "needle valve" with the grainger valve and you get the idea.

again, this way is totaly adjustable. set it and forget it.
dont make this mistake though... in THIS set up, the LOWER the spring tention in the valve, the HIGHER the boost you will get.
mine is mounted this way^ in my race car and with an HX-35 on a 2.5L 4 banger i go down the track at 34psi through every gear with no boost spikes, creep, or boost drop off.

now would this work on a diesel?

bring on opinions

__________________
2000 2500 ex-cab, long box, auto,
open exhaust, cone filter, edge attitude stacked with smarty (thanks Mike!) raptor 150, and frantz filter.

Last edited by theturbominivan : 10-22-2009 at 11:32 PM.

theturbominivan · 10-22-2009, 11:28 PM

here is the part number/link for this valve from Mc master.... (highlighted in yellow)
McMaster-Carr

and from grainger...
Valve,Relief,1/4 In - Vacuum and Pressure Relief Valves - Valves - Pneumatics & Hydraulics : Grainger Industrial Supply

i believe when you buy this, the ball and spring need to be reversed. youll want to take it apart and put it back together starting with the ball, then the spring, then the adjustable top portion, and when mounting it, you ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS!! mount it so the ball is FACING the boost source. you want the boost to be pushing the ball against the spring. if you have it backwards you could overboost.
also, it has been a long time since i bought one, but you may need to drill and tap a small hole on the end of the knurled end and glue or thread in a nipple to attach your boost/vacuum line. you can do the same to the other end or just buy a female nipple that will thread on. if you drill the bottom end to glue or thread in a nipple, be careful not to drill in too deep, you do not want to disturb where the ball seats otherwise it wont seal. when gluing in nipples i use JB-weld and plastic or brass vacuum barbs

__________________
2000 2500 ex-cab, long box, auto,
open exhaust, cone filter, edge attitude stacked with smarty (thanks Mike!) raptor 150, and frantz filter.

Last edited by theturbominivan : 10-22-2009 at 11:42 PM.

joeymobrien · 10-26-2009, 04:07 AM

This might be a stupid ? but If I dont ask I'll never learn. once I adjusted and installed the boost elbow is it ok to be driveing around all the time like that? Im getting ore boost but I have heard as daily driving I miht want to think twice about running it like that?

jmd025 · 10-30-2009, 09:43 PM

NEWCOMERS TO THIS DISCUSSION

Please read from the beginning to avoid repetitive/redundant posts. You will most likely find your question has been answered earlier!

THANK YOU GUYS

__________________

Louisiana Coalrollers!

VE-P-VP

My trucks are modded.

dieselbeef · 11-01-2009, 08:04 AM

lazy peeps man

__________________
02 quad cab shortbed, silver, super b turbo,130 inj, drag comp, smarty, 6'' single cat stack, black beadlock rims,315's, holley black
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUFOk2rlvto

01cummingetit · 11-03-2009, 10:44 PM

screw the 50 dollar kit from bdpower and bully dog and tst. go to lowes and get a 55 cent j hook and a couple nuts to fit it to adjust length, a 37 cent spring to hook onto it and fabricate a little mount to hook to to the back of the wastegate. alot cheaper than the overpriced performance companies!

NEWDUCK · 11-11-2009, 04:28 PM

I am also with turbominivan on this. Run a boost controller and have a very easy way to adjust boost. I want to try a set up like that on my hy35 but odd thing is I have seen no one do this

It will require a tad more work than a J hook but Id rather run a boost controller. Maybe ill have to be the first one the experiment with it.... I was gonna go with something like this
TurboLogic Performance Manual Boost Controllers : BoostController.com LLC - America's Source for High quality turbo boost controllers, silicone hose, and more performance products - 877-836-6155- precision boost control. Turbosmart Warehouse Distribu
But Should I run the boost side line as close to the intake as possible or on the turbo like stock?

__________________
02 cummins quad long bed auto. Edge juice with att and 4 in mbrp and a leaf blower style

10-26-2009, 04:07 AM	#116 (permalink)
joeymobrien Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Austin Tx Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts joeymobrien's Truck Pics	wastegate This might be a stupid ? but If I dont ask I'll never learn. once I adjusted and installed the boost elbow is it ok to be driveing around all the time like that? Im getting ore boost but I have heard as daily driving I miht want to think twice about running it like that?

10-30-2009, 09:43 PM	#117 (permalink)
jmd025 Thismachinekillsfascists Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Looozi-Anna Posts: 2,647 Thanks: 31 Thanked 62 Times in 36 Posts jmd025's Truck Pics	Read Please NEWCOMERS TO THIS DISCUSSION Please read from the beginning to avoid repetitive/redundant posts. You will most likely find your question has been answered earlier! THANK YOU GUYS __________________ *Louisiana Coalrollers!* VE-P-VP My trucks are modded.

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10-09-2009, 02:32 AM	#109 (permalink)
1BadOilBurnerN-Lv Diesel Freak Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lost Wage's Nevada Posts: 862 Thanks: 22 Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts 1BadOilBurnerN-Lv's Truck Pics	All i did is used a needle valve to block my waste gate , superchips , and i see 30-32 psi all day long __________________ 2000 2500 sport extended cab short box , 5-speed. 6 inch miter cut stacks , silencer ring M.I.A. , B.H.A.F. 355 gears , 6 inch long arm rcd lift and 37's SuperChips , fass pump

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10-12-2009, 06:42 PM	#110 (permalink)
road_dawg6901 Newbie Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 9 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts road_dawg6901's Truck Pics	i know this isn't healthy for a stock turbo or any turbo for that matter blocking the waste gate is a sure way of high numbers on your boost but be warned do this at your own risk turbos an head gaskets dont seem to like this route but if you got enough fuel goin you will see some high numbers __________________ Cracked block cummins still making 400hp an 830 ftlbs of tq

10-15-2009, 10:01 AM	#111 (permalink)
dieselbeef Diesel Head Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: myakka city fl Posts: 1,397 Thanks: 0 Thanked 10 Times in 5 Posts dieselbeef's Truck Pics	pinch off the wastegate..boost leaks...less timing..more fuel.... __________________ 02 quad cab shortbed, silver, super b turbo,130 inj, drag comp, smarty, 6'' single cat stack, black beadlock rims,315's, holley black http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUFOk2rlvto

10-20-2009, 10:23 PM	#113 (permalink)
Blue2003 Cummins Nut Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: kansas Posts: 324 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Blue2003's Truck Pics	i agree...good info __________________ '03 3500 S.R.W.Patriot Blue 2 wheel drive 6-speed quadcab s.w.b. SPS62/14,Smarty TNT,TST,PUCK,4"MBRP T-409 T.B., A.T.S. Arc Flow,A.F.E. Stage 2,60 lb.boostgauge,1600e.g.t.gauge,F.A.S.S. HPFP150, DiPricol Fuel,RailGauges Delete grid heater

10-22-2009, 11:16 PM	#114 (permalink)
theturbominivan Cummins Fan Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Airdrie Alberta Posts: 99 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts theturbominivan's Truck Pics	ok, bringing this back to the beginning topic a bit... essentially what you are doing with a J-hook is externally tightening the wastegate spring, and with a boost elbow you are basically adding a "restrictor" so the wastegate can sees less boost... keeping its spring tighter as it is now not being overcome by as much boost pressure. i have been boosting my drag car for about 5 years now and i have tried about every concept known to man for raising boost, quick spikes, no spikes, quick response and so on. the best thing i have found is an $8-$11 brass ball and spring valve from grainger (acklands grainger in canada) or Mcmaster, and im kinda surprised i haven't heard of it in the diesel world. these work amazing on gas engines/computers, and im really new to diesel but i dont see why this method couldn't work. tell me what you think.... here is the valve disassembled. it is a ball and spring valve. when plugged in between the waste gate and boost source (turbo compressor in our case) the spring will keep the ball tightly sealed not allowing boost through from the turbo to the wastegate (making boost raise quickly) once the boost level begins to overcome the valves spring tension (which is totally adjustable for any boost level from stock to as much as you can handle) the ball is slowly pushed off its seat allowing boost around it and through the line to the wastegate. not only is this method totally adjustable, but it prevents boost spiking (shooting to say 30psi then slowly backing off to where its ACTUALLY set like 25 for example), boost creep, it spools very fast, its cheap, and once you have it set where you want it, you never have to touch it again except maybe take it apart and clean it once a year. ^mounted this way, all you need to remember is, the higher the spring tention in the valve, the higher the boost you will get. any reason it couldn't work for a diesel? ignore all the writing in the picture and the hole it says to drill (its unnecessary) but you get the general idea of how to mount it. you can also mount the valve in different ways to get different effects like a slower spool with higher mid range boost. ignore the brass restrictor in this picture and replace the "needle valve" with the grainger valve and you get the idea. again, this way is totaly adjustable. set it and forget it. dont make this mistake though... in THIS set up, the LOWER the spring tention in the valve, the HIGHER the boost you will get. mine is mounted this way^ in my race car and with an HX-35 on a 2.5L 4 banger i go down the track at 34psi through every gear with no boost spikes, creep, or boost drop off. now would this work on a diesel? bring on opinions __________________ 2000 2500 ex-cab, long box, auto, open exhaust, cone filter, edge attitude stacked with smarty (thanks Mike!) raptor 150, and frantz filter. Last edited by theturbominivan : 10-22-2009 at 11:32 PM.

10-22-2009, 11:28 PM	#115 (permalink)
theturbominivan Cummins Fan Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Airdrie Alberta Posts: 99 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts theturbominivan's Truck Pics	here is the part number/link for this valve from Mc master.... (highlighted in yellow) McMaster-Carr and from grainger... Valve,Relief,1/4 In - Vacuum and Pressure Relief Valves - Valves - Pneumatics & Hydraulics : Grainger Industrial Supply i believe when you buy this, the ball and spring need to be reversed. youll want to take it apart and put it back together starting with the ball, then the spring, then the adjustable top portion, and when mounting it, you ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS!! mount it so the ball is FACING the boost source. you want the boost to be pushing the ball against the spring. if you have it backwards you could overboost. also, it has been a long time since i bought one, but you may need to drill and tap a small hole on the end of the knurled end and glue or thread in a nipple to attach your boost/vacuum line. you can do the same to the other end or just buy a female nipple that will thread on. if you drill the bottom end to glue or thread in a nipple, be careful not to drill in too deep, you do not want to disturb where the ball seats otherwise it wont seal. when gluing in nipples i use JB-weld and plastic or brass vacuum barbs __________________ 2000 2500 ex-cab, long box, auto, open exhaust, cone filter, edge attitude stacked with smarty (thanks Mike!) raptor 150, and frantz filter. Last edited by theturbominivan : 10-22-2009 at 11:42 PM.

11-01-2009, 08:04 AM	#118 (permalink)
dieselbeef Diesel Head Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: myakka city fl Posts: 1,397 Thanks: 0 Thanked 10 Times in 5 Posts dieselbeef's Truck Pics	lazy peeps man __________________ 02 quad cab shortbed, silver, super b turbo,130 inj, drag comp, smarty, 6'' single cat stack, black beadlock rims,315's, holley black http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUFOk2rlvto

11-03-2009, 10:44 PM	#119 (permalink)
01cummingetit Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts 01cummingetit's Truck Pics	screw the 50 dollar kit from bdpower and bully dog and tst. go to lowes and get a 55 cent j hook and a couple nuts to fit it to adjust length, a 37 cent spring to hook onto it and fabricate a little mount to hook to to the back of the wastegate. alot cheaper than the overpriced performance companies!

11-11-2009, 04:28 PM	#120 (permalink)
NEWDUCK Newbie Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Utah Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts NEWDUCK's Truck Pics	I am also with turbominivan on this. Run a boost controller and have a very easy way to adjust boost. I want to try a set up like that on my hy35 but odd thing is I have seen no one do this It will require a tad more work than a J hook but Id rather run a boost controller. Maybe ill have to be the first one the experiment with it.... I was gonna go with something like this TurboLogic Performance Manual Boost Controllers : BoostController.com LLC - America's Source for High quality turbo boost controllers, silicone hose, and more performance products - 877-836-6155- precision boost control. Turbosmart Warehouse Distribu But Should I run the boost side line as close to the intake as possible or on the turbo like stock? __________________ 02 cummins quad long bed auto. Edge juice with att and 4 in mbrp and a leaf blower style