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Old 12-09-2012, 11:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My vote is for a bad ground...Mine was doing the same thing, intermittently losing power but coming back on to the same cd track or radio station... BAD GROUND

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Old 12-10-2012, 02:00 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Another questions guys. Black and blue wire that is connected to back of stock stereo what djd you all do with that wire? The one that is kinda seperate from stock harness, Thats not a ground is it? Cuz I have one ground on harness
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Another questions guys. Black and blue wire that is connected to back of stock stereo what djd you all do with that wire? The one that is kinda seperate from stock harness, Thats not a ground is it? Cuz I have one ground on harness
its prob the remote turn on wire. Usually all blue or blue with black trace
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:15 AM   #16 (permalink)
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its prob the remote turn on wire. Usually all blue or blue with black trace
Thanks rammit, any idea what I should do with it? Cap it off?
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:45 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks rammit, any idea what I should do with it? Cap it off?
Should of been labeled on the harness. You can just tape it off all it does is turn on a factory or aftermarket amp when the head unit is turned on.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:37 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Always solder! Butt Splices should only be used in the field with dialectric grease for a temporary fix when soldering is not possible.

I always splice per NASA standards - never have a broken connection ever again!

MAKE | How-To: Splice Wire to NASA Standards
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:14 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Always solder! Butt Splices should only be used in the field with dialectric grease for a temporary fix when soldering is not possible.

I always splice per NASA standards - never have a broken connection ever again!

MAKE | How-To: Splice Wire to NASA Standards
Good ol' Western Union Splice.

If you do the splice right, it's stronger than the wire itself.

It's from back in the Telegraph days, hence the name "Lineman's Splice" or "Western Union Splice" it's for wires that have weight load on them, hanging on a pole.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:00 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Ok guys, i am about to go mad. So my stereo is still doing it, its losing power for a second then coming right back on to same track or station and same volume. Replaced head unit, and second wiring harness where everything is soldered this time. my question is this i have got my ground from the stereo that i am soldering into the aftermarket harness which in turn is to stock stereo harness. should i take the ground from stereo and ground it out or leave it hooked on to the ground through harness? the only wires that i have left that are not soldered are an orange wire, blue and white wire from harness, and a blue/black wire that was hooked seperately onto the back of stock harness. any help please guys.
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:45 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Anybody got an idea where i should start?
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:01 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Anybody got an idea where i should start?
Troubleshoot the factory wiring.

The easiest way to do this is to put the stock stereo back in. Does it still have the same problem?



Orange from the stereo harness is for lighting. Not necessary, cap it off.
Blue from the stereo harness is for power antenna or amplifier cut on. Not necessary, cap it off.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:32 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Stock stereo works perfectly. Ok and what do you know about the black and blue wire that was connected to back of stock stereo? Also should I take ground from stereo harness and physically ground it or leave it soldered to ground on aftetmarket harness?
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:40 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The single wire that was physically connected to the metal of the stock stereo is your Ground wire.

Connect the Black wire of your new stereo harness to that wire that used to be connected to the metal on the back of your stock stereo.


Theoretically, your stereo shouldn't work without this connected, however you may be getting a stray ground from the antenna coax. (The antenna connector has a shell and a pin. The pin is for the antenna, the shell is ground.)





In fact, try this:
Before you do ANYTHING, go out to your truck and pull the stereo out of the dash.
Remove the antenna plug and put it away so that it can't touch the stereo.
Try and work the stereo.
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