heater wont get warm - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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heater wont get warm

i know there is probably another thread about this but i cant search it on the computer i am on,
my heater wont heat, after about 15 min of driving it will get a little warm and stay there but it never gets warm enough. any ideas of what might be causing this or what i could do to fix it because it shouldnt take that long, i live in texas and the coldest it has been here is mid 30's. any help would be appreciated.


CODY 01 4x4 drw qc 12v. 6spd valair DD, air dog, 160 pump, big valves, oring head, 4k gsk, 181dvs, 370 marine inj, studs, 20 over CR pistons , 188/220 hd cam, hd pushrods, beehive springs, billet wheel 63/68/14, 5inch, edg cts eas.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 10:53 AM
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Is the truck at proper operating temp? If so, check the heater hoses under the hood and make sure both of them are warm. If only one is warm, use a garden hose to flush out your heater core.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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yeah it takes maybe 2-3 min to get up to operating temp, but wont blow as warm as it should be.

CODY 01 4x4 drw qc 12v. 6spd valair DD, air dog, 160 pump, big valves, oring head, 4k gsk, 181dvs, 370 marine inj, studs, 20 over CR pistons , 188/220 hd cam, hd pushrods, beehive springs, billet wheel 63/68/14, 5inch, edg cts eas.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 11:13 AM
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If It only blows on the defrost... it's the vacume controled selector on the drivers side... must pull dash back to access. Test first to see you have vacume on the manifold along the cowel. Common vacume faults are disconnected lines at transfer case or cruise control under the driver's side battery.

If it's just temperature, Possibly broken (stupid plastic) blend door coupling. These folks have a SS repair part & instructions for how (with determination the first time) to fix without pulling the dash. The blend door motor is located near the hump in the passengers foot well. Auto replacement part, blend door fix, Heat, AC replacement parts
Before you start, pull the blower... make sure it's not clogged with mouse nest. If so, clean it out. Keep mice out by stuffing the cowel drains (behind the hood hinges) with coarse steel wool... I used a hunk of SS pot scrubber. Water will still drain, no mice.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 01:59 PM
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Exclamation Thermostat

Mine did this to!

I replaced my thermostat, had a tear in the rubber gasket that surrounds it that was not letting the engine build heat as the coolant was continually circulating into the rad, cooling off.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 02:02 PM
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mine did the same thing, threw in a new thermostats = problem solved

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 02:08 PM
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thermostat***

2000 4x4 ATS 3000/5000, ATS 3-Piece Manifold, 6x016's, Southbend dualdisk, ARP studs, Smarty, TST Comp, 5" MBRP, Airdog, SO VP, 6 Speed
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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well it looks like im gonna have to throw in a new thermostat. thanks for the help yall.

CODY 01 4x4 drw qc 12v. 6spd valair DD, air dog, 160 pump, big valves, oring head, 4k gsk, 181dvs, 370 marine inj, studs, 20 over CR pistons , 188/220 hd cam, hd pushrods, beehive springs, billet wheel 63/68/14, 5inch, edg cts eas.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 09:08 PM
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Same with mine. Replaced the t-stat yesterday and its night and day

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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well i replaced my t-stat yesterday with a stainless steel one that opens at 192 degrees, still wont even get warm, any other ideas, or should i just take it to a heat and a/c shop and have them figure it out...

CODY 01 4x4 drw qc 12v. 6spd valair DD, air dog, 160 pump, big valves, oring head, 4k gsk, 181dvs, 370 marine inj, studs, 20 over CR pistons , 188/220 hd cam, hd pushrods, beehive springs, billet wheel 63/68/14, 5inch, edg cts eas.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 01:09 PM
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It takes forever to get all the air out of the system. One thing that helps is to drive it around in a gear lower than normal, keeping the revs at 2000 or more for a while.

This seems to help push the air out of the heater system and into the rad, where it's easier for the cooling system to push it out and swap in coolant from the overflow.

By the way, the air is purged when the engine is hot, and it sucks from the overflow as the engine cools...not when it's running.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 02:47 PM
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I would suggest back flushing your heater core before goin to a shop. I had this problem too, this was my cure.

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