On other vehicles I've had caster is adjusted by turning a cam bolt similar to the Ram. On those vehicles, the cams on either side of the control arm were in the same position relative to each other. Turning the bolt moved both cams together and they stayed together. ie cam on left control arm at 12:00, rotate the bolt counter clockwise so that the nearest cam moved to 9:00 (vehicle front) and the other cam would move to the front.
On my truck, looking at the left control arm, the outer cam is at 9:00 and the inner cam is at 12:00. See the attached from the FSM. The cam not seen on my truck is at 12:00. Alignment sheet says caster is 4*.
There's a cross caster built into the axle housing. I'm sure thats what you're dealing with. Unless I'm not understanding and you're referring to the eccentric cams on the "same" control arm arent moving together.....because they should.
Just for state of reference on how much caster these trucks like, I have my caster set full positive on one side and less that caster whatever cross caster is built in the axle on the other side. Been like this for years, tires mud terrain tires wearing perfect, and it steers and drives very smooth. :thumbsup:
@ Katoom, cross caster is a difference between measurements of both front wheel. Caster Left wheel 4*, caster Right wheel 3*.
I'm questioning why both cams on 1 side of the vehicle are different. I think Fish is right. Someone put them on wrong. Another example of poor mechanic's workmanship. This truck has a lifetime Firestone alignment and has been on the machine many times. A good indy would be preferable to Lifetime Firestone but the good indys here work on freign vehicles or don't have a machine.
Ahh..... I wasnt sure if thats what you were saying or not.
Yes, the cam plates move together. But I'm not sure how anyone could get the eccentric cam plates and bolt on wrong. You'd really have to screw things up because if they werent moving together then the bolt would be seriously out of alignment within the two holes. :confused013:
When I adjust mine I jack the front axle off the ground and either set it on stands or leave the floor jack under the pumpkin so it can more easily rotate. The loosen both control arms and move one at a time. :thumbsup:
They are easy to fix. Just block all the wheels from moving. There is no weight on the control arms. Take of the nut and tap the bolt out with a tapered drift pin and leave the drift pin in to maintain alignment of the hole. Correct the bolt and cams and put back together. Always do the control arms one at a time though.
It is actually real easy. The bolt and cam washer hole have flat spots on BOTH sides making them easily reversible either one or both on either side if you are not paying close attention.
Not exactly correct....on mine, the head side of the bolt has teeth, the nut side has a flat.
It was very easy to misalign...
When you remove the bolt, you need to BEAT the washer off the head side, and down the bolt (hopefully that is clear as mud).
When reinstalling, slide the bolt in and position the nut side cam, then you can rotate to adjust, then position the head side (you will see what i mean above), then when both are aligned....crank them tight.
It looks like someone installed the removable side 90* off. I'll take the nut off to make sure that the hole in the cam isn't buggered. Moog replacements are ~$10/side. I haven't noticed many complaints regarding bushings but they have turned out to be important for good handling on other vehicles. Any comments of likelihood of needing new bushings as a maintenance item at slightly less than 200,000 mi?
Once an end is removed...IF THE BOLT COMES OUT...install the bolt away from the mount and try to flex the bushing, and inspect it.
I would guess 2 things...
1. Bushings are junk
2. Bolts wont even come out
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