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Disconnect the negative battery cables and turn your lights on. Leave it for about 10 minutes and that should clear it up. I had the same problem on my truck once. They came on after I tried to put the truck in 4 Hi.
I'd try the rear ABS sensor first. It's on the top of the rear differential. Just unplug it and remove the bolt holding it in, and then pull it out. Watch for the o-ring. There might be some metal shavings stuck to it as it's magnetic. You can try cleaning it off and reinstall it. That worked once for me, but I eventually had to replace the sensor. I had the same problem as you on my '98 12 valve 4X4. My truck has 4 wheel ABS.
I just bought a 1999 Ram 2500 SLT. It is 4WD. 5.9 Cummins. Automatic.
The Brake and ABS light are stuck on. I haven't had much time to poke around with it and see whats going on. But was hoping this was maybe a common issue with these trucks and a simple fix.
PS - The power difference going from a 1992 F350 7.3 IDI to a 99' Cummins with Hypertech, Cold Air, and 5" Stack is UNREAL...
Check the hub bearing for play... grab the wheel top and bottom, try to move it back and forth. You're looking for no movement.
Sounds like one of the sensors is toast. The front sensors are located on the hub. You just have to take the wheel, caliper and rotor off to get to it. I believe a 6mm allen is what you need to take it out.
They're about $60 to replace or if you have to replace the hubs, they come with it.
The rear is on the diff.
'02 2500 4X4 ADR W/ PULSE, S&B CAI, S&B Intake Elbow, FASS 150, BD SO VP44, Diamond Eye 4", 2.5" HBS Level Kit w/ Bilstein 5100's, 33" MTR's, DT Pro Fab Steering Box Stabilizer Next up: Tranny, Turbo, Sticks
The dealer has the scanner to read the codes for abs
__________________ 2008. EFI Live By Cummins-Tuner. Copilot. 5" TBE. S&B Intake With Scoop. GDP Mega-Flo With Boost Tube. GDP Pro-Gate. GDP CCV Delete. WCC Silencer Ring Mod. Rail Shim. Fass Ti 150. ARP 425's.
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