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Old 01-12-2009, 11:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear Dually Brake Issue?

SO! I''m no stranger to drum brakes... but this is a little weird. I've been searching around and haven't really found anyone with the same problem as me. When driving around, most of the time my brakes are pretty normal, but maybe 1 out of ever 3 slow speed stops, the rear tires completely lock up if I'm unladen, especially on sand or gravel or any loose surface. I can tell when this is going to happen beucase the brake pedal is extremely stiff. The previous owner had the same problem and he completely did the rear brakes on the truck and it didn't go away. I don't want to put in a regulator as it only happens intermittantly and it would just hinder my brakeing capacity on the times the truck decides to brake normally.

The other day I felt a dragging, and it felt like the front brakes were sticking, but it wasn't being pulled to either side, upon further inspection, turns out the rear right drum was hanging up. On the ride home, i stopped to talk to a friend for about 10 mins. When i went to leave, the rear whell was completely locked. Working back and forth I finally got it free, and every time i stop its like that. If i roll i can feel it pulseing, which leads me to beleive the drum is now warped as $h!t.

Tried taking it apart, and to my no so much surprise, everything is frozen, adjuster, you name it. Basically, I'm gonna need new everything from the rubber flex line out...

Any ideas on the weird intermittant stiff braking?
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Without knowing what the previous owner went through or why the brakes had to be rebuilt in the first place, I can only assume the basics. Brake fluid will do exactly what your describing. If there's a leaking rear cylinder it will contaminate the shoes and they WILL want to grab. You'd think it would be the other way around but not the case. Maybe upon rebuilding the brakes the last owner decided not to replace the shoes for whatever reason and they were contaminated. But nonetheless, it seems your issues have progressed and caused the drum to warp. When it comes to brakes, I have been known to just start over and replace everything just so there's nothing to cause a weak link. I'm not saying you need to do this but diagnosing brake problems is like chasing a greased chicken. Usually guys complain about weak rear drums and opt for the GM cylinder upgrade. Not the other way around. I think my rear drums work great, except for that first braking in the morning on a damp or rainy day. It'll try to launch me through the windshield if I'm not paying attention.
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You could have a sticking propotioning valve which controls rear brake pressure due to varying loads.I agree if everything is rusted/seized start over and repace it all with good quality parts and hardware(springs,etc.)Keep away from the cheap parts......you get what you pay for most of the time!
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Old 01-13-2009, 12:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Are the axle seals ok. If you get oil on the shoes then it will give similar results to what your having. I'm sure you've checked it but That what I'm currently doing on my 98
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Old 01-13-2009, 12:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Are the axle seals ok. If you get oil on the shoes then it will give similar results to what your having. I'm sure you've checked it but That what I'm currently doing on my 98
Your right. I forgot to mention that a leaking rear seal could contaminate the shoes also and do the same as the brake fluid.
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Well the person i bought it off of is a pretty good friend and when he did the brakes he did everything but the slave cylanders. Pads, drums, spring kit, adjuster etc. And the axle seals, as far as I can tell are not leaking, as that was one of my first thoughts.

Today Im going to break into them and take the whole assembly off, seeing as there so rusty (thank you massachusetts road salt). Im thinking the spring may have let go and thats what is causeing them to bind permanently now
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Rear lockup can also be from a bad master cylinder. It has two systems, one for the front and one for the back. If the front one is worn out, sometimes it will seal off, sometimes not. When it does not, very little braking force goes to the front, and the rears lock up. The proportioning valve is supposed to balance things out a bit, but usually not enough to compensate for a worn out master cylinder. Otherwise, +1 to the above posts regarding fluid contamination.
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Perhaps some different light can be shed on this timely issue. These trucks all have ABS, right? Yes they do, either RWAL or 4WAL. ABS quits functioning somewhere below 12 MPH normally. This can lead to interesting brake experiences as previouslly indicated. Part of the issue stems from location of wheel speed sensor. The rear sensor is mounted to read a tonewheel on diff assy behind ring gear. If one wheel locks up and ABS computer can't figure it's locked because of speed of other wheel and ring gear still turning. There will always be a slight imbalance of individual rear wheel braking performance especially at very low speeds. Have same issue on my mothers very loose gravel driveway. One rear brake invariablly locks as does one or more trailer brakes, especially for first few brake applications. Perhaps this makes some sense. Bottom line is these heavy brakes have some pitfalls. JMHO of course.
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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dozer, light has been shed. That makes perfect sense, thats kinda of what i was thinking, but i don't have much abs experience. (aside from removal, beucase I removed it from the grand cherokee and did a 1 ton brake upgrade, and my wrangler never had it.)

As for the breaks, finally got the drum off, brakes were so jammed on... turns out my parking brake cable had ice in it and it froze beuase i left it in my shop with the heat cranked for the day and it came back to life. As for the locking up? I have an idea maybe? Forward it locks up tight as a bulls @$$. like, 4wd, ltd slip and a the mods n my sig cant break it free, but it reverse, ir freewheels? Im thinking in reverse its not jamming into the pads where as forward it catchs and lifts causeing it to jam, beucase i can still hear it dragging in reverse. It did warp my drum and its getting turned right now. Im hoping with a new pkb cable it will return to normal, because the entire inside is like, not only rust free, but it looks almost as good as it did the day it was installed, minus some healthy dust thats awesome for your lungs and i would really not be happy with doing them AGAIN
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