That notorious breather bottle!

Gary - K7GLD · 12-16-2005, 06:15 PM

New (and some older!) owners of second generation trucks either have, or WILL become victims of that notorious Cummins engine breather bottle, attached to the front engine gearcover between the front of the engine and the radiator.

Why "notorious"?

Because unknown to new owners, that breather over a few thousand miles driving, eventually becomes overloaded with the fluid byproduct of engine vapors, and begins leaking them into the airstream of the fan, blowing them all over the front of the engine, drivetrain, and even forewards into and onto the cooling fins of the radiator.

Some owners only become concerned and aware, when their trucks start overheating due to the oily coating applied to their radiator, which in turn collects dust and dirt, eventually seriously blocking cooling airflow.

SO, what can or should you do about it?

There are several approaches - first, of course, is simply regularly removing and draining that catch bottle - but in truth, that will only REDUCE vapor distribution, not eliminate it!

Next, is removing that bottle, and lengthening the hose so as to allow engine vapors to simply drip harmlessly to the ground - here's sorta what that looks like from the floor looking upwards at the front of the engine:

The 3/4 inch male/male hose barb can be seen at the circular strap that used to hold the original breather bottle. On my setup, I also used hose clamps to secure the splice and keep it leak-free.

This may be as far as you want to go - but remember, there WILL be small amounts of oily vapor vented from the hose in it's new location - and that can still be blown back in the truck's undercarriage and make a mess over time - but some just consider that free rust prevention.

To go a step farther, some use a longer hose, and drain the vapors further back to the rear of the truck, and let any resulting oily buildup accumulate there instead of further forward. IF you choose this method, be sure to NOT allow low spots in the drain tube, since in colder climates it might freeze the accumulated vapor fluid and totally block off needed engine venting.

Unfortunately, NEITHER of the above solutions adequately address the inevitable small drops of oil that WILL spot driveways and garage floors - either yours, or those of your friends. You probably wouldn't deliberately spit on their floors - and SOME of them might also take a dim view of oily "calling cards" left in their driveways!

SO, how can you eliminate ALL unwanted breather mess?

Like THIS:

I first liberally drill added vent holes in the breather bottle for best possible venting:

THEN I cover it with an old sock for best filtration and absorbancy to harmlessly soak up all vapors:

Does it work? Is it effective? one pic above showed the front of my engine - here's the undercarriage:

Whatta ya think - effective?

The relocated bottle is secured to the front swaybar by common cable ties or wire wraps - the sock itself gets changed every oil change, and only takes a couple of minutes. Best part, CLEAN engine, undercarriage, and garage floor - MUCH appreciated by me when I have to crawl under the truck for routine maintenence or some new project.

Enjoy!

__________________
White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er.

Last edited by Gary - K7GLD : 07-02-2008 at 02:11 PM.

12-16-2005, 07:03 PM

Gary that is awesome very very clean and a great idea

DM

***MUDDY*** · 12-16-2005, 07:38 PM

yes,,,,,,,,,,,,,thx for sharing gary. a mandatory mod. see a lot of 24v's come in and oil encrusted dirt is on the radiator and they are complainin about a heating prob. go figger

__________________
for IDAHO discusion and events check www.idahobombersforum.com

illflem · 12-17-2005, 11:42 AM

In my climate it seems like water vapor out the blowby would collect on the sock then freeze, effectively blocking off the blowby.

My solution has been to slip a piece of 3/4" ID hose over the stock hose, no clamps, and run it down to a few inches from the ground. I chose no clamp just in case the extended tube got caught on brush, etc so it would easily pull off.
It hasn't pulled off in ten years, bottom of truck is oil free. I park over a pan to catch the few drips that drops that may fall.

Last edited by illflem : 12-17-2005 at 11:46 AM.

Gary - K7GLD · 12-21-2005, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Think about it you put more holes in the bottle for the oil to run out of the sock and drip on the floor plus you have to change the sock how often? I may be blind at times but in the pic above I can see oil on the frame and bolt its not that clean and it’s not water!!

1. the floor of my garage under the truck is totally clean and dry - I'll provide an additional pic when I next move the truck.

2. I think I pointed out that I changed the sock when I change oil or typically about every 5-7K miles.

3. Photos are sometimes deceiving - whether you choose to believe me or not, the underside of that truck IS clean and dry - some paint runs and blemishes at front of engine pan - but all is clean and dry, just the same - and *I* was actually under there, not just looking at an internet photo...

BUT hey, if some have a better, cleaner method they like better, GO for it!

__________________
White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er.

Gary - K7GLD · 12-21-2005, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by illflem

In my climate it seems like water vapor out the blowby would collect on the sock then freeze, effectively blocking off the blowby.

My solution has been to slip a piece of 3/4" ID hose over the stock hose, no clamps, and run it down to a few inches from the ground. I chose no clamp just in case the extended tube got caught on brush, etc so it would easily pull off.
It hasn't pulled off in ten years, bottom of truck is oil free. I park over a pan to catch the few drips that drops that may fall.

I sorta covered the freezing issue here:

Quote:

IF you choose this method, be sure to NOT allow low spots in the drain tube, since in colder climates it might freeze the accumulated vapor fluid and totally block off needed engine venting.

Naturally, that also applies to the sock method. But truth is, there ARE a few guys in those colder areas using methods similar to mine, and I've not heard of any freezing up so far, and we just went thru sub-freezing weather for the past 10 days or so ourselves, and no problems with mine.

Quite a few owners have used the simple lengthening of the hose method, and then just lived with the occasional drips that fall - but those add up over time, either down the road and blown back along the undercarriage, or at some parking point where there ISN'T a drip pan available.

What got me especially sensitive to this issue, other than the danger of fouling the radiator, is a good friend of mine living in Arizona, with one of those fancy coated and decorated concrete parking aprons in front of their place. My old '91 with the plain open downtube vent always left a few drips on that surface when we visited - I sure didn't want that! With my Ford drivin', Dodge hating RV bud, I'd never hear the end of it...

__________________
White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er.

Last edited by Gary - K7GLD : 07-02-2008 at 02:24 PM.

Gary - K7GLD · 12-22-2005, 02:43 PM

SO, what's the garage floor look like? About like THIS:

This place is about 10 years old, we've been here for one year, and the VAST majority of stains seen here in the area under the front of where the truck is normally parked are from previous owners - mostly an apparent case of a badly leaking battery in the past - the rest is pretty dern CLEAN and free of recent oil spots from my own truck since our arrival - and you'd have to pretty dern picky to gripe about what's seen here!

__________________
White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er.

12-22-2005, 07:32 PM

Wow Thats cleaner than my carpet

LOL

DM

Gary - K7GLD · 12-22-2005, 07:37 PM

Someone along the line, apparently the last owners - musta had LOTSA battery problems, because BOTH sides of the garage floor have serious acid marks on them, as well as apparent antifreeze stains - the floors are getting cleaner everytime they get swept - but still pretty stained.

__________________
White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er.

12-16-2005, 06:15 PM	#1 (permalink)
Gary - K7GLD Tech Specialist Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Canyon City Oregon Posts: 1,357 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 4 Posts Gary - K7GLD's Truck Pics	That notorious breather bottle! New (and some older!) owners of second generation trucks either have, or WILL become victims of that notorious Cummins engine breather bottle, attached to the front engine gearcover between the front of the engine and the radiator. Why "notorious"? Because unknown to new owners, that breather over a few thousand miles driving, eventually becomes overloaded with the fluid byproduct of engine vapors, and begins leaking them into the airstream of the fan, blowing them all over the front of the engine, drivetrain, and even forewards into and onto the cooling fins of the radiator. Some owners only become concerned and aware, when their trucks start overheating due to the oily coating applied to their radiator, which in turn collects dust and dirt, eventually seriously blocking cooling airflow. SO, what can or should you do about it? There are several approaches - first, of course, is simply regularly removing and draining that catch bottle - but in truth, that will only REDUCE vapor distribution, not eliminate it! Next, is removing that bottle, and lengthening the hose so as to allow engine vapors to simply drip harmlessly to the ground - here's sorta what that looks like from the floor looking upwards at the front of the engine: The 3/4 inch male/male hose barb can be seen at the circular strap that used to hold the original breather bottle. On my setup, I also used hose clamps to secure the splice and keep it leak-free. This may be as far as you want to go - but remember, there WILL be small amounts of oily vapor vented from the hose in it's new location - and that can still be blown back in the truck's undercarriage and make a mess over time - but some just consider that free rust prevention. To go a step farther, some use a longer hose, and drain the vapors further back to the rear of the truck, and let any resulting oily buildup accumulate there instead of further forward. IF you choose this method, be sure to NOT allow low spots in the drain tube, since in colder climates it might freeze the accumulated vapor fluid and totally block off needed engine venting. Unfortunately, NEITHER of the above solutions adequately address the inevitable small drops of oil that WILL spot driveways and garage floors - either yours, or those of your friends. You probably wouldn't deliberately spit on their floors - and SOME of them might also take a dim view of oily "calling cards" left in their driveways! SO, how can you eliminate ALL unwanted breather mess? Like THIS: I first liberally drill added vent holes in the breather bottle for best possible venting: THEN I cover it with an old sock for best filtration and absorbancy to harmlessly soak up all vapors: Does it work? Is it effective? one pic above showed the front of my engine - here's the undercarriage: Whatta ya think - effective? The relocated bottle is secured to the front swaybar by common cable ties or wire wraps - the sock itself gets changed every oil change, and only takes a couple of minutes. Best part, CLEAN engine, undercarriage, and garage floor - MUCH appreciated by me when I have to crawl under the truck for routine maintenence or some new project. Enjoy! __________________ White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er. Last edited by Gary - K7GLD : 07-02-2008 at 02:11 PM.

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12-16-2005, 07:03 PM	#2 (permalink)
Guest Posts: n/a	Gary that is awesome very very clean and a great idea DM

12-16-2005, 07:38 PM	#3 (permalink)
*MUDDY* Diesel Freak Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: IDAHO check events forum for idaho event info Posts: 508 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts MUDDY's Truck Pics	yes,,,,,,,,,,,,,thx for sharing gary. a mandatory mod. see a lot of 24v's come in and oil encrusted dirt is on the radiator and they are complainin about a heating prob. go figger __________________ for IDAHO discusion and events check www.idahobombersforum.com

12-17-2005, 11:42 AM	#4 (permalink)
illflem Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Montana Posts: 4,959 Thanks: 4 Thanked 142 Times in 130 Posts illflem's Truck Pics	In my climate it seems like water vapor out the blowby would collect on the sock then freeze, effectively blocking off the blowby. My solution has been to slip a piece of 3/4" ID hose over the stock hose, no clamps, and run it down to a few inches from the ground. I chose no clamp just in case the extended tube got caught on brush, etc so it would easily pull off. It hasn't pulled off in ten years, bottom of truck is oil free. I park over a pan to catch the few drips that drops that may fall. Last edited by illflem : 12-17-2005 at 11:46 AM.

12-22-2005, 02:43 PM	#7 (permalink)
Gary - K7GLD Tech Specialist Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Canyon City Oregon Posts: 1,357 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 4 Posts Gary - K7GLD's Truck Pics	SO, what's the garage floor look like? About like THIS: This place is about 10 years old, we've been here for one year, and the VAST majority of stains seen here in the area under the front of where the truck is normally parked are from previous owners - mostly an apparent case of a badly leaking battery in the past - the rest is pretty dern CLEAN and free of recent oil spots from my own truck since our arrival - and you'd have to pretty dern picky to gripe about what's seen here! __________________ White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er.

12-22-2005, 07:32 PM	#8 (permalink)
Guest Posts: n/a	Wow Thats cleaner than my carpet LOL DM

12-22-2005, 07:37 PM	#9 (permalink)
Gary - K7GLD Tech Specialist Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Canyon City Oregon Posts: 1,357 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 4 Posts Gary - K7GLD's Truck Pics	Someone along the line, apparently the last owners - musta had LOTSA battery problems, because BOTH sides of the garage floor have serious acid marks on them, as well as apparent antifreeze stains - the floors are getting cleaner everytime they get swept - but still pretty stained. __________________ White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er.