Heat exchanger relocation

[patracy]

I did this in anticipation of installing twins down the road. First of all you'll need to gather all the parts. I used about 10ft of 3/8" transmission hose. Three 1/2" compression to 3/8" npt fittings. Three 3/8" npt female to 3/8" hose barb fittings (note: my install has only two like this, I had to adapt one since they didn't have all the fittings I wanted). Two 3/8" street pipe fittings. A couple of hose clamps. Some Teflon pipe tape. A couple of nuts, bolts, and fender washers. Around 10' of 5/8" heater hose. Some tie wraps. And replacement fluids (ATF and Antifreeze). Tool wise I used a cresent wrench, ratchet, 10mm socket, 1/2" quick disconnect tool, pliers, screwdrivers, drill, knife, line cutter, and funnel.



First I removed the hard line from the transmission. Make sure you get plenty of drain buckets.


Then I popped the quick connect off the hard line that loops back to the cooler.


I then removed the transmission lines from the exchanger.


Then you're ready to drop the hard line loop to the exchanger.


Then I began removing the coolant lines from the exchanger. I installed a new line in a loop to help cut down on the coolant loss. Be quick, it comes out quick. I started with the top line first near the alt. Then I worked on the lower one near the oil filter.





Then you're free to remove the hard lines under the exhaust manifold.



Then remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the exchanger onto the block and motor mount. Then you're free to remove the exchanger.



Then I drilled two holes in the mounts for the cooler.



I removed this rubber section from my truck, part of it was already loose.



I used the line cutter and remove the fittings I needed from the factory lines. Just tape up the threaded section and install the nipple on it. Then slide the lines into the compression fittings and tighten them down.



Then I mounted the exchanger to the crossmember. The great thing is that the crossmember already has holes in it where you can bolt it in place. Then I installed the fittings. I made note of how everything flowed prior to relocating it and matched up the lines.



To get the hose on one of the lines from the front cooler I had to remove the three 10mm bolts to allow enough movement.



This is optional, but if you can find about 2' section of 1/2" transmission line. This would go a lot smoother if you used that line with a 1/2" barb instead. I just wrestled with it for a while until I got it on and clamped.



Then I threw a few tie wraps on it to keep the lines in check.



Here's the pile o' parts you'll have left over.



Then top off your coolant and ATF fluids.





Then enjoy your newly found space in anticipation of another turbo.



(Overlook the crack and poorly patched block on my truck. )

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. 462hp and 920ft-lbs 11/14/09, I know I can get 500hp...

[12valveterror]

thats a real good write up man thanks for the great info and pics

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97' 2500, 12Valve, 4x4, Auto, Dunrite Triple Disc T/C & V/B, Bilstein 5100 Shocks, DSS Stablizer, Dipricol Gauges, #0 Fuel Plate, 14cm Non-Wastegated Housing, KDP Killed, T/C Lockup Switch, 15* Timing, 2" Leveling Kit, 4" Turbo Back to 5" Mitres

[patracy]

Thanks, glad to help.

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. 462hp and 920ft-lbs 11/14/09, I know I can get 500hp...