Exhaust - 4" Installation Tips and Tricks

hotdram · 03-07-2006, 05:09 PM

(MODS: I hope I put this in the correct forum

)

This is how I installed my 4" exhaust system on my truck, an '02 quad cab, shortbed 4x4.

To remove the old system, you need a 13 mm socket to get the down pipe bolts out. I used about every extension in my tool box and came at them from the bottom, seemed easier than from the top (plus you don't have room for a breaker bar from the top, I needed one to get them loose). Next, I used sawzall and cut the system in two places, one between the muffler and the tail pipe and another between the down pipe and the muffler. Take a bunch of WD-40 and spray on the rubber hangers, this makes getting the stock pieces out much easier. Next up, put the new down pipe in. I lubed it up with every cuss word I knew. It will only go in one way, but it will go. I bolted it up loosely to get an idea of where it would be. After that, I hung the muffler and the new tailpipe. I then measured from the end of the down pipe to the input of the muffler and cut the remaining piece of pipe to length (the kit I purchased was for all cab configurations/wheel bases). I cut about 16 1/2" off for my truck (see above). I then unloosened the downpipe bolts and put the cut pipe inbetween the muffler and downpipe. This was the hardest part. The next hard part was getting the hanger that is on the downpipe in place (the one that slides in next to the tranny). The whole assembley had to be pulled back a bit to let the hanger slide in. A ratchet strap on the frame and the hanger helped pull it back far enough so that the hanger could be put into place. Next, I bolted up the downpipe (used a swivel joint on the socket this time) and installed the clamps. You will need a 9/16" deep-well socket for the MBRP clamps.
All that's left to do is fire it up, check for leaks and take it for a spin

Tools needed:
13 mm socket
9/16" deep-well socket
Lots of extensions
breaker bar
Sawzall
WD-40
Liberal amount of cuss words

~Rob

__________________
'02 2500 H.O. Q/C SB 4x4, MRBP 4", BHAF, SBC CON-OFE, Scotty Smart Fuel Lines, Smarty SW of the day: #7

, DonM's Mach 1.6's, issPro's, SJ D25's, Mag-hynietec, B&W ball

Last edited by hotdram : 03-07-2006 at 05:57 PM.

Dr. Evil · 03-07-2006, 05:55 PM

Great writeup Rob !

A few extra tips/problems from when I did mine:

1) I had a hard time getting the stock downpipe off...had to borrow an impact.
2) I also had trouble clearing the transmission with the 4" downpipe...had to "make it fit" with a hammer
3) I tried taking off the old exhaust as a single piece, mainly to keep my cat (just in case). Ended up breaking off a couple of bolts that hold the crossmember. Tried getting them out with a couple of different screw extractors - no go. Ended up just moving the crossmember back a bit.
4) I bought the 4" Warpspeed exhaust...the last chunk that goes over the diff wouldnt tighten because it wasnt made correctly. Dont want to knock a product, but I wouldnt buy another one.
5) I highly recommend band clamps over the ubolt type exhaust clamps and use plenty of antisieze on all pipejoints and clamp threads.
6) A second set of hands really helps.
7) If you dont have a shop - do NOT do this on a COLD day - I learned that the hard way.

My next exhaust will likely be S.S.

Last edited by Dr. Evil : 03-07-2006 at 07:32 PM.

03-07-2006, 05:09 PM	#1 (permalink)
hotdram Tech Specialist Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 136 hotdram's Truck Pics	Exhaust - 4" Installation Tips and Tricks (MODS: I hope I put this in the correct forum ) This is how I installed my 4" exhaust system on my truck, an '02 quad cab, shortbed 4x4. To remove the old system, you need a 13 mm socket to get the down pipe bolts out. I used about every extension in my tool box and came at them from the bottom, seemed easier than from the top (plus you don't have room for a breaker bar from the top, I needed one to get them loose). Next, I used sawzall and cut the system in two places, one between the muffler and the tail pipe and another between the down pipe and the muffler. Take a bunch of WD-40 and spray on the rubber hangers, this makes getting the stock pieces out much easier. Next up, put the new down pipe in. I lubed it up with every cuss word I knew. It will only go in one way, but it will go. I bolted it up loosely to get an idea of where it would be. After that, I hung the muffler and the new tailpipe. I then measured from the end of the down pipe to the input of the muffler and cut the remaining piece of pipe to length (the kit I purchased was for all cab configurations/wheel bases). I cut about 16 1/2" off for my truck (see above). I then unloosened the downpipe bolts and put the cut pipe inbetween the muffler and downpipe. This was the hardest part. The next hard part was getting the hanger that is on the downpipe in place (the one that slides in next to the tranny). The whole assembley had to be pulled back a bit to let the hanger slide in. A ratchet strap on the frame and the hanger helped pull it back far enough so that the hanger could be put into place. Next, I bolted up the downpipe (used a swivel joint on the socket this time) and installed the clamps. You will need a 9/16" deep-well socket for the MBRP clamps. All that's left to do is fire it up, check for leaks and take it for a spin Tools needed: 13 mm socket 9/16" deep-well socket Lots of extensions breaker bar Sawzall WD-40 Liberal amount of cuss words ~Rob __________________ '02 2500 H.O. Q/C SB 4x4, MRBP 4", BHAF, SBC CON-OFE, Scotty Smart Fuel Lines, Smarty SW of the day: #7 , DonM's Mach 1.6's, issPro's, SJ D25's, Mag-hynietec, B&W ball Last edited by hotdram : 03-07-2006 at 05:57 PM.

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03-07-2006, 05:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
Dr. Evil Banned Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 2,568 Dr. Evil's Truck Pics	Great writeup Rob ! A few extra tips/problems from when I did mine: 1) I had a hard time getting the stock downpipe off...had to borrow an impact. 2) I also had trouble clearing the transmission with the 4" downpipe...had to "make it fit" with a hammer 3) I tried taking off the old exhaust as a single piece, mainly to keep my cat (just in case). Ended up breaking off a couple of bolts that hold the crossmember. Tried getting them out with a couple of different screw extractors - no go. Ended up just moving the crossmember back a bit. 4) I bought the 4" Warpspeed exhaust...the last chunk that goes over the diff wouldnt tighten because it wasnt made correctly. Dont want to knock a product, but I wouldnt buy another one. 5) I highly recommend band clamps over the ubolt type exhaust clamps and use plenty of antisieze on all pipejoints and clamp threads. 6) A second set of hands really helps. 7) If you dont have a shop - do NOT do this on a COLD day - I learned that the hard way. My next exhaust will likely be S.S. Last edited by Dr. Evil : 03-07-2006 at 07:32 PM.