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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > Technical Articles - Writeups - Guides Section > 98.5-02 Tech Articles > 98.5-02 Aftermarket Performance
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98.5-02 Aftermarket Performance This is the 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins AfterMarket Performance Articles Section. Chips, Tuners, Intakes, Exhaust, etc...

 
       


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Old 01-06-2007, 08:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Vulcan Draw Straw II, big line & FP relocation kit - A

Save your $1500 VP44 injection pump!! Stock fuel pumps on these Dodges are aweful, and their solution, the intank pump, isn't much better!

My 2001 had the LP replaced with the intank module

I was seeing 7 psi on idle, and as low as 3.5 psi on WOT


I ordered a Draw Straw II, big line & FP relocation kit from Vulcan.


Here's the install. Took about 4 hours time, nothing too difficult. Vulcan didn't include hose clamps for the fittings, so I bought these - just to be sure.

The pump is a Cummins Campaign pump, NIB


1. I drove down the fuel level as far as practical, especially given the intank pump, we siphoned out the rest. I got down to less than 1 gallon left

2. Reaching behind the rear quarter panel, I loosened the hose clamps and remove the fuel filler hose from the tank to the gas nozzle, and the other hose. Left these loose.

3. Then loosened the (2) 15mm bolts holding the fuel tanks straps in place

4. Lowered the tank, unhooked the electrical connection and the (2) fuel line connections from the top of the tank. The electrical connection has a slide release, and a push tab. The fuel lines had a couple releases to press in, then get pulled off.

5. Dropped the tank entirely. It's pretty light when empty of fuel, maybe 30 lbs, easily handled by one person, though it's size is awkward

6. Removed tank. Per Vulcan's instructions, remove the fuel pump assembly using a wood block and hammer. Luckily, my lock ring came loose easily

7. Drilled a hole in the tank for the draw straw II using a wood drill kit's 1 1/4" hole saw. We held a coffee can in through the fp hole to catch the drill debris. Worked great.

8. Sized the depth of the draw straw, per instructions. Took it to a grinder to angle the bottom, smooth the edges to ensure any impact with the tank wouldn't puncture it. We left about a 1/4" of clearance. I never run the tank below 1/2 anyway.

9. Installed the draw straw, reinstalled the intank FP so the fuel level gauge will work (also provides the inlet for the fuel return. Used the supplied cap to cap off the larger fuel line lead - the output, and secured that with wire twist job. A zip tie, or small hose clamp would work too. Took the shorter new hose, pressed the hose onto draw straw and secured with a hose clamp, hook the JIC into the adapter. We used locktite thread sealer (not thread locker) to seal all the threads. Pipe tape would have been an option.

10. Installed the tank, hooked up the stock fuel return line (clips on), hooked up the electrical lead. (clips on)

11. Ran the fuel line along the frame rail, inside of the body mounts. (see pics)

12. My truck had an adapter block when the normal engine mounted pump is located, put there when Dodge did the intank retrofit. I unhooked all of that, and all of the fuel rails from the VP44 to the filter and the filter back. I also unhooked the FP power line, and plugged the supplied Vulcan extension lead. I used the supplied plastic conduit to protect the lead, and ran it back to about the front of the tank. I did this to ensure I had enough lead before I tried to position the new FP

13. I found a good place to mount the pump, where the power line extension would reach, yet the fuel line from the tank would also reach. I installed the (2) JIC adapters to the pump, then mounted the pump, attached the power line, trimmed the fuel line, installed a JIC swivel adapter to the hose, and attached the hose to the IN on the pump. Please note that I used the mounting bracket as a reinforcement plate, NOT as a true mounting bracket. Hence, the picture may look a little confusing to some.

14. I then put a JIC swivel on the end of the longer hose, a JIC adapter on the pump OUT, and attached the hose to the front of the pump.

15. I ran the hose along the rail, and fished it up into the engine compartment, trimmed it to a length appropriate to attach to the fuel filter, attached a JIC swivel, put a JIC adapter in the fuel filter inlet, and attached the hose from the FP to the fuel filter


16. At this point, I hit a problem. It *appeared* that Vulcan didn't supply enough JIC's to finish the job. I had one for a 1/2" ID hose, and one for a 3/8" ID hose. Hmm, doesn't work to run the big hose from the fuel filter to the VP44. So I used the stock metal/rubber hose assembly with banjo bolts. I will get another JIC from them, but it works for now.


I went from 7 psi idle, 3.5 psi WOT to 15 psi idle, and 10 psi WOT!!

The fuel pump is noisy in the cabin. Probably because I didn't mount it to the frame, I mounted to the cab. I will try some rubber sheet to insulate, but ultimately a Walbro will replace it.

Thanks VULCAN!!


Top of the tank connections:



Tank dropped:



Tank removed:




Looking into FP hole in tank:

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Last edited by fight4yourrights : 01-12-2007 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Intank FP hole with pump removed:




Tank:



Drilling 1 1/4" hole for Draw Straw II:



Hole:



Cutting the Draw Straw to length:

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Last edited by fight4yourrights : 01-12-2007 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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POS intank pump



Draw Straw II in position:




Reinstalling intank pump (necessary for the fuel gauge and return line)



Locking in place:



My location for the fuel pump:

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Last edited by fight4yourrights : 01-16-2007 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Power lead and large hose running along frame rail



I don't have good pics in the engine compartment of the rest of the installation
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Last edited by fight4yourrights : 01-12-2007 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's a good project.
Why did you mount the pump to the cab, and not back by the tank?
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Last edited by Marine : 01-06-2007 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marine View Post
That's a good project.
Why did you mount the pump to the cab, and not back by the tank?

It's basically at the front of the tank. I'd have a hard time getting it much closer to the tank outlet.

By "cab", I'm referring to the fact that it's mounted to the cab's sheet metal, and I think that's allowing a lot of noise to come through

Had I mounted it to the frame rail, the rubber isolators that connect the cab to the frame would isolate some of that noise.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Mine is right in front of the tank.
I don't know how to insert a pic like you did, but here is the link.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/gallery/...37/ppuser/3335

In fact it would have been closer if I didn't put that valve in.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marine View Post
Mine is right in front of the tank.
I don't know how to insert a pic like you did, but here is the link.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/gallery/...37/ppuser/3335

In fact it would have been closer if I didn't put that valve in.

That's right about where mine is. I'm outside of the frame rail, looks like you are inside.

But you are right by the transfer case shield, so am I
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Old 01-06-2007, 09:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Cool.
When I get back, I am going to install my spin on filters, and move them to the outside of the rails. I'll have to take a look at it again.
I would like to get the draw straw and do that as well, so I have the 1/2" line all the way from the tank.
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Old 01-09-2007, 10:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I spoke with Vulcan today, and they are getting me another 1/2 JIC swivel so I can complete the big line run all the way to the injection pump.


Thanks for the great service, and good product!
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Old 01-09-2007, 06:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Eric is a great guy to deal with.
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Okay, I SCREWED UP


As the campaign pump says right on the bottom, it needs to be mounted vertically.

After trying some rubber washers and they not helping much, I thought about how the intank pump is cooled and quieted by the fuel. I then thought about how the campaign pump wouldn't have much fuel inside it the way it was mounted.

Sure enough, I actually READ the pump and see it needs to be vertical

So, I remounted it, and used double rubber bushings between the bracket and the chassis, now it's quiet.





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