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Figured id post up some pics of my p-pump swap to try and help out the guys that are thinking of doing this in the future.
Il list everything needed to do the swap in a few days, but for now here are some teardown pics.
Couple pics before the teardown:
The bumper and hood latch have to come off first. I sprayed a quick coat of spray paint on the latch before removing it to aid in re-assembly.
Then the core support, condenser, PS cooler, intercooler and radiator. The int. and rad must come out together due to their design. Unbolt the shroud and leave it sit in the engine compartment while you take the rad out.
Then unhook the washer fluid resivoir and lift the shroud out.
Next i took the fan, pulley and bracket off all at once. The one bolt behind the pulley was kind of a pain to get loose,but i figure its easier than taking the fan and pulley off seperate.
Dampener and oil bottle come off next. I marked the dampener as to its orientation on the crank before taking it off. (not sure if necessary, but i did it just in case)
Took the front cover off to see what i was up against. I placed the bolts in the correct location on the 12v gear cover i have for the swap.
I then closed up the front cover to work on the top end. I will pull the front cover, cam and gear case off when i have the new cam to go right back in.
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Hobie
2000 QCSB, 180 pump, 6x.013's, maxspool 2.5, s468, tranny built by me, AD150, 11.60@117mph
1999 QCLB comp box and a trans by me - tow rig/DD
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Before removing the vavle cover i ripped out the insulation above it so i didnt have to deal with it falling in the head. I then took the cover off (much easier without the insulation above it).
then i took the intake horn off and set the grid heaters off to the side.
Took all the rockers, bridges and push rods out. Took a 2 x 6 and drilled holes for the rocker bolts and push rods to keep everything organized.
you need to take the passenger side wiper off and the plastic cover on the cowl in order to get the last 4 push rods out.
Then i moved on to the injection lines.
Next i took the ECM off and the stock lift pump bracket. You need to cut the bracket so it sits flush on the engine in order to move the ecm back to clear the P7100.
Then i got the vp44 out of the way. Man am i happy to say that thing will never go back on my truck
Then i took the Vacume pump and PS pump out in order to re-seal it. I just left the lines hooked up here as well for now. Il see if i can re-seal it with out taking it completely out.
So thats how it sits for now....
Last edited by mathews8pt; 06-07-2009 at 03:07 PM.
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2000 2500 QCLB AT 4x4,Fully built Goerend Transmission, Mach 7's, 5" Exhaust, AD 150, ADR/Pulse, Twins, Studs, o-rings. Sold
2006 Dodge Ram QCLB 3500. Efi live etc. 649hp on old setup.
How did u go about taking the dampener off? I know its just the 4 bolts but I cant break em lose because I spin the whole thing when i try to losen them.
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99 BIG and slow
98.5 small and not so slow
The Following User Says Thank You to CUMMINS_power For This Useful Post:
Haha yea right I have way too much time and $$ invested now
Didnt even pay attention when i was workin on it, il be sure to add a tab to cover it up when i put the 12v cover on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CUMMINS_power
How did u go about taking the dampener off? I know its just the 4 bolts but I cant break em lose because I spin the whole thing when i try to losen them.
Took mine out with an impact since the whole front clip had to come off The four bolts come out, then it just pulls off with a little wiggling.
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Hobie
2000 QCSB, 180 pump, 6x.013's, maxspool 2.5, s468, tranny built by me, AD150, 11.60@117mph
you don't actually gotta take the passenger wiper and other stuff off to get the last 4 pushrods out. there's actually two plugs up above that you can take out to get em out. Sorry i'm a little late with the info lol.
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1996 Dodge 4x4 auto 12v:fully built trans, c0ntag10u$ 5x16s, 66, 4ks, tork tek ofv
1967 Ford 4x4 with a twelve valve
you don't actually gotta take the passenger wiper and other stuff off to get the last 4 pushrods out. there's actually two plugs up above that you can take out to get em out. Sorry i'm a little late with the info lol.
I took the plugs out but still couldnt get one of the pushrods out because of the position of the wiper arm in the cowl. Wasnt that bad after i figured out that the tab on the wiper pulls out and doesnt push in
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Hobie
2000 QCSB, 180 pump, 6x.013's, maxspool 2.5, s468, tranny built by me, AD150, 11.60@117mph
this is inspiring me to start buying the parts needed slowly to p-pump my 24v. One question through what do you use for a shut off on those pumps? Is there a way to rig up the 12v shut-off solenoid in a 24v?
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The four bolts come out, then it just pulls off with a little wiggling.
Il be sure to clean it out before it goes back in.
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