Fuel Shut Down Solenoid - L

This Tech Artical is written By JoeG

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=28

The fuel solenoid is most often replaced when nothing is wrong with it ................

DM

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Last edited by got...DIESEL? : 03-05-2006 at 08:39 PM.

I have never had the chance to mess with one of these so my question is ...............it obviously takes power for the solinoid to lift so in my mind that is a fail close solinoid, if this solinoid fails the truck wont start.

I am assuming it lets fuel by when it is in the lifted position correct?

[DieselTweaker]

Kevin.

you are correct.

and in that case you can disconnect the solenoid from the lever and smiply operate it manually

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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN

Kevin.

you are correct.

and in that case you can disconnect the solenoid from the lever and smiply operate it manually

excellent...........the mechanicals can fix easily if you just know how!

Thanks Pro

[argve]

Alrighty... then...

So let me get this straight... You apply voltage and the solenoid should pull UP on the lever allowing fuel to be pumped through by the injection pump then when you remove power it should shut down the system by allowing the lever system to snap back into position...

Or is it like this...

You apply power and the solenoid pulls the lever up (again allowing fuel to be fed) then when you REVERSE the voltage through the coil it will SHOVE the lever back into OFF position.

Reason I ask is today I could not get my truck started at work and I popped off the electrical connector on the FSS and I had 12v between the two outside wires (red and black) So I plugged the connection back in and lifted on the lever assembly - I felt it sort of lock/pop into the up position then turned the key the rest of the way to start the truck (the key was already in the RUN position) then when I pulled into the garage I shut the key OFF - engine stopped - tried to restart and again no start.

Now from reading on Larry B's website ( POKE HERE ) he was selling a diode to put on the FSS so that the starter contacts can't back feed current to the solenoid and burn it up. I get the feeling that my 2nd thought pattern (reverse polarity) fits what he is saying... Am I all wet on this or not...

I'm thinking that my problem may be that my solenoid rod has become gummed up with 200k miles of road grime and just needs to be cleaned along with a new rubber boot installed to protect it.

So this leads me to another question...

Can a guy just toss the FSS over his shoulder on the bench and keep driving the truck by just manually getting under the hood to either start or shut off the engine... Reason being is I don't have time right now to correct this problem (busy schedule) and we are taking a trip this weekend in the truck and I won't have time to fix it until possibly next weekend or so... Basically I don't want to get stranded in the truck somewhere because I don't have time to fix it correctly.

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Travis

1995 Dodge 2500 Ext Cab, 2wd, Bolt Action. Remember she's just a little ole six banger
#10 Fuel Plate, 3K GSK, AFC Kit, 60lb exhaust springs, Pac-Brake, Star wheel adjusted a wee bit - 3.5 rear gear with Lock-Right locker - Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation system, ATS 3 Piecer.

[argve]

Ok I answered my own question just now...

I went out and was doing some troubleshooting on the system to try and figure out why my system was not working - well during the T/S I figured out that the solenoid is a DUAL coil system. First coil is a holding coil - meaning that when power is applied to the red and black wires the solenoid will hold the lever up (will allow fuel to pass). The second part of the solenoid is a PULL solenoid - meaning that the first solenoid does not have enough butt to yank the lever up so they employ this 2nd solenoid that only energizes when the key is moved to the START position.

But while bumbling around under the hood the truck would not fail for me - started everytime... I hate problems like this... Time will tell though (on a cold snowy night)...

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Travis

1995 Dodge 2500 Ext Cab, 2wd, Bolt Action. Remember she's just a little ole six banger
#10 Fuel Plate, 3K GSK, AFC Kit, 60lb exhaust springs, Pac-Brake, Star wheel adjusted a wee bit - 3.5 rear gear with Lock-Right locker - Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation system, ATS 3 Piecer.

[fordcummins]

Argve,
The FSS takes 2 amps to hold the switch onto the on position(pulled up). It requires 40 amps for the solenoid to pop up into the lock position. Your problem is probably the switch that is the snakes head up next to the firewall. I think on a dodge it is located by the windshield wiper motor on the drivers side. Usually, the contacts will burn. Or, sometimes, the fuseable link that goes to the positive terminal on the battery will split. But, like you said, you can operate it manually and or tie it off in the up position when running. Had many a feller do this to get their truck home. I did this to a guy at a stoplight...he thought I was a hero. lol. Anyway, this would be a good temporary fix. I think the FSS part from cummins sells about 367 bucks....if I remember right. Ouch!

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1994 F350 XLT Quad Cab w/ 98 12V Cummins. New S3, or super "B" turbo from BD(Schwitzer) 50psi. DA Lubricant Oil. Stanadyne. Reese hitch. Bug shield, rain skirts, chrome fender trim, diamond plate tool box and bed rails, Rhino lined bed, 5% window tint, Hybrid Injectors (400 horse), Laser cut delivery valves, 5K GSK(5300 rpm@WOT), 6in. Hood Stack, O-ringed, 60lb. exhaust/intake springs, ARP 14mm studs, mild port and polish, 25* timing, .20 over head gasket,4.10 gears, KDP Mod, Reworked pump, #4 Cam plate, Baja wheels, South Bend CON OFE 13' clutch, autometer z-series guages, autometer tach, Pioneer CD w/ spkrs/subs, Dixie Air Horns, 6 in Skyjacker lift kit, w/35s. Lights everywhere! Custom Graphics. Too much money invested, seeing the looks on Ford guys' faces, priceless! Special thanks to JR Adkins Diesel Performance. (317) 847-4092,
(317) 281-3130

[BigD]

I will also add (and some of you probably know already) but if your battery juice is down, and I'm not talking where it won't turn over, your truck will not start because of this!

D

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2007 Ram2500 Laramie Mega Cab 6.7 auto 4X4. N-Fab nerf bars, pre-runner, rear runner 2" level kit, 20's XD795 Hoss - Black. BFG's 305/55/20 Hella 4000 lights. Smoked cab lenses. I'm done with the outside!

[illflem]

Most common coil pull up problem I've run into is a corroded blue wire at the drivers side battery. This supplies the juice to the solenoid relay and is actually a fusible link.
Many times the wire is corroded under the insulation where you can't see it. Just cut it off and crimp on a new connector. What often causes it to be intermittent is engine vibration or a person moving the wire around causing it make and break connection.
You can also check the small wire from the starter that supplies juice to trigger the lift up relay to make sure it's in good shape.

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Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock