Turning up a P-7100 pump

[vjhkeh]

What Else Can I Do To Reach 350-400 Hp

[gstanfield]

get some more air, a bigger torque plate, open exhaust, add some timing, more air, a better clutch, and more air to go with more fuel

( yes I know I said more air three times, it's important )

Oh yeah, you may want to start a new post in the 94-98 performance section with your question as well as do some searching via the search menu.

George

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1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, KDP tabbed, silncer ring MIA, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.

[Oregonpharmer]

In addition to changes in delivery valves, and the items covered in the article referenced in the first post, there are two very common things overlooked by most guys turning up their P pumps.

The first is the need to have the built-in pump timing turned up to 6 degrees (has to be done by a pump shop with a bench), and the second is to chat with your local fuel injection pump shop and get the front stop plug used by Mack in their over the road applications of this pump on larger displacement engines, that will allow the rack to travel farther forward for a richer fuel rate under full load.

I do not advise removing the AFC stop, as that can lead to rack pivot failures in trucks where the pump is still cold and the foot is lead. The cost of a lighter spring kit to attenuate the AFC is relatively inexpensive, and adds a level of safety for the average guy with a tendency to stomp on it once in a while.

[b.lee]

so you need to remove the IP to bump up the timing?
I thought you could just loosen up a bolt or two, and push the IP up towards the hood of the truck?

Thanks.

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96 CTD 2500 4x4, Auto, 392k Miles, 4" Exhaust, #10 Plate, 3KGSK, 36psi, Mag-Hytec DD Trans Pan, Isspro gauges, Prime-Loc, Amsoil 4510, KDP Tab'd, 265 BFG on 08 CTD wheels.
98 Camaro Z28 LS1 Auto, Shift Kit, 3.73, EFI Live'd, SLP CAI, Vette wheels

[Oregonpharmer]

There are two places to time a P pump. The most common timing is done with the pump on the truck, the pump drive gear pulled and turned to increase plunger lift relative to piston TDC. The second is purely internal and resets the internal pump timing relative to the position of the shaft. This last timing must be done on a bench by someone that has the tools.

A difference in the combination of the two timing settings is generally why you find one 12 valve that goes like a scared cat, and another that just goes, when both have the same relative timing and identical delivery valves and injectors.

The VE pump used prior to 94 could be timed by loosening the bolts and turning the pump housing. But, there is nothing external that you can slide on the P pump and change timing.

[oldsmokey94]

Originally Posted by Oregonpharmer

In addition to changes in delivery valves, and the items covered in the article referenced in the first post, there are two very common things overlooked by most guys turning up their P pumps.

The first is the need to have the built-in pump timing turned up to 6 degrees (has to be done by a pump shop with a bench), and the second is to chat with your local fuel injection pump shop and get the front stop plug used by Mack in their over the road applications of this pump on larger displacement engines, that will allow the rack to travel farther forward for a richer fuel rate under full load.

I do not advise removing the AFC stop, as that can lead to rack pivot failures in trucks where the pump is still cold and the foot is lead. The cost of a lighter spring kit to attenuate the AFC is relatively inexpensive, and adds a level of safety for the average guy with a tendency to stomp on it once in a while.

COuld we hear a little more about this "rack pivot failures"???

Lance

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'97 black dually 64mm/74mm twins, helix II, cooltwist IC, 435's, lasercuts, .093 lines & holders, 4k gsk, custom rack plug, 3850 DD, dual aussies