Turning up a P-7100 pump - Page 2

illflem · 04-02-2006, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smokin Monster

What difference would it make to plug off the boost line into the AFC?

Your truck would run like crap. It needs boost pressure to the aneroid to operate the diaphragm.
You should block off the wastegate line at the turbo instead.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock

***HOTMOPR*** · 07-20-2006, 10:59 PM

I gutted my AFC today. I really like how it runs. Almost seems smoother at lower rpms but the fuel is definitely right there waiting for the signal to smoke..

__________________

MOPAR OR NO CAR
IBEW Lu. 76
Rest in Peace Rob Hanson
-my 95 Cummins---my 67 Cuda----not my Pro-Stocker--

______________ \_
| 12V CUMMINS | | ,\______
|...__..._________|====|= ""|
"(©)'(©) *** "" (©)''(©) =''(©)°
If I can't push you down the slope. I can probably pi$$ ya off enough to get ya to chase me down it!!

b.lee · 12-29-2006, 06:47 AM

So can i get a 'lamens' terms on the AFC Gutting?
Can you get good MPG's after gutting it as long as your foot is light?

__________________
96 CTD 2500 4x4 Auto 386k Miles, Straight Pipe, #10 Plate, 3KGSK, 36psi, Isspros/A-Pillar, Prime-Loc, Amsoil 4510, Mag-Hytec, KDP Tab'd, 285 BFGs.98 Camaro Z28 LS1 98k Auto, Shift Kit, 3.73, EFI Live'd, SLP Cold Air Intake

***got...DIESEL?*** · 12-29-2006, 08:45 AM

remove the AFC housing from the pump via the 4 attaching bolts, as well as unhooking the boost lines. Turn it upside down, remove the 10mm headed bolt on the front. gently pry the shaft from the housing...it has an O ring that makes it a snug fit into the bore. Once the shaft is out, just lift the arm out of the housing. replace the shaft and bolt and bolt her back down. Hook up the boost lines so they're not left open, even though the AFC will no longer do anything. The pressure on the diaphram won't hurt anything, it just won't have a lever to act upon.

__________________

In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!!

'95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

b.lee · 12-29-2006, 10:29 AM

thanks. =)

__________________
96 CTD 2500 4x4 Auto 386k Miles, Straight Pipe, #10 Plate, 3KGSK, 36psi, Isspros/A-Pillar, Prime-Loc, Amsoil 4510, Mag-Hytec, KDP Tab'd, 285 BFGs.98 Camaro Z28 LS1 98k Auto, Shift Kit, 3.73, EFI Live'd, SLP Cold Air Intake

flubyux2 · 12-30-2006, 09:55 PM

alot of great, in-depth tech info! i cant wait to dig into my pump and calibrate it for my style of driving.

so w/ the AFC gutted... youre in FULL control of fuel response w/ regards to engine needs... kind of like manual fuel compensation. w/o the arm in place, you can manually overcompensate and have the "cool" smoke show on demand? im afraid of that since next year... cops can hand out tickets for trucks that blow smoke like that. plus, sometimes, i am a stab it-and-go guy. i used to have an Eagle Talon turbo AWD that felt like that; stabbing it made it overfuel, bog, pull ignition timing... but rolling on the throttle felt faster. so i think i know what you mean by "Driving" the vehicle as opposed to letting the vehicle, say, drive itself? (in regards to boost-response fueling)

so what is the proper tuning sequence for a stab-and-go driver?

install new/custom Fuel plate
roughly calibrate AFC housing
ball-park it w/ the star wheel
fine tune w/ the "Smoke screw"?

working from coarsest adjustments to finest adjustments?

then, if an application needs more fuel; installin new DV's and injectors, then a new fuel plate and begin the tuning sequence again to control the new fuel components?

thanks
chris

***got...DIESEL?*** · 01-01-2007, 08:08 AM

yup...pretty much the name of the game. You as the driver decide what is tolerable as far as smoke, power, off idle etc. By removing the Aneroid, your right foot is now the pre-boost fuel controller, which has advantages and disadvantages as well. But yes, after installing the plate, put both the star wheel and the housing in the middle of the road and drive it. Make the coarse adjustment with the housing, and once you're happy with the rough setting, fine tune it with the smoke screw. Just realize, that the housing adjustment only places the Aneroid arm farther or closer to the gov arm relatively as an initial fuel setting. The star wheel either places or removes tension via a spring from the diaphram, which in essence makes it react quicker, or slower to boost signal on the diaphram. The politically correct "fine" adjustment for housing position, would be the smoke screw on the back of the Aneroid, which most mis-name the starwheel as. There is a stud that is covered with an anti-tamper, which threads in and preloads the initial position of the Aneroid arm and is truly the fine adjustment for housing position, because in essence, both the housing position and the smoke screw setting influence the position of the arm, not the reaction rate of it. So get those two settings done first, then adjust the starwheel for your liking between smoke control to rpm, and power to pull off into power fuel. Any Q's?

Chris

__________________

In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!!

'95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

flubyux2 · 01-02-2007, 11:15 AM

no questions yet! your synopsis is clear as daylight. i have to fight off the urge to tinker w/ the AFC or gut it untill i decide if i can indeed buy an aftermarket warranty for my truck... if i can buy an aftermarket warranty, im going to get every little thing fixed thats allowable... then do some mods. thanks!

regards
chris

Tippy · 01-31-2007, 04:59 PM

My question is, after compleating all the mods, can you make a 160 hp pump produce the same power as a 215 hp pump? Do the 215's already have some adjustments made to them and get thier extra power from a factory setting, or do they have compleatly differnt internals?

gstanfield · 01-31-2007, 05:30 PM

yes they have diffrent parts inside, but it's not to the point that a 160 pump is going to limit you very much. Most any of the mods you'll be doing to your 160 pump you would have had to do with a 215 pump. I've seen guys cranking out well over 500 hp who started with a 160 pump.

The 215 pump does have a slight amount of timing advance to them from what I've heard (4 degrees was the numer told to me) but for 95% of the folks out there building a hotrod, the 160 pump is every bit as good a starting point as the 215.

George

__________________
1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, KDP tabbed, silncer ring MIA, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.

vjhkeh · 02-11-2007, 02:10 PM

i have a 1997 3500, manual. i removed the afc arm to get more fuel, and i do not see a difference in excelleration. i have a stock fuel plate, does this have anything to do with this problem

gstanfield · 02-11-2007, 02:48 PM

yes, the afc only controls fuel below 6psi boost (or maybe 4psi, I can't remember) you should be able to smoke off the line now, but won't see much increase in power with only afc mods. Slide your stock plate forward a tad and see what you get. Also, don't get too crazy without a boost and pyrometer guage.

George

__________________
1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, KDP tabbed, silncer ring MIA, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.

02-11-2007, 02:10 PM	#23 (permalink)
vjhkeh Newbie Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 6 vjhkeh's Truck Pics	p-7100 pump i have a 1997 3500, manual. i removed the afc arm to get more fuel, and i do not see a difference in excelleration. i have a stock fuel plate, does this have anything to do with this problem

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum Advertisement

07-20-2006, 10:59 PM	#14 (permalink)
*HOTMOPR* Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: SW, Wa Posts: 191 HOTMOPR's Truck Pics	I gutted my AFC today. I really like how it runs. Almost seems smoother at lower rpms but the fuel is definitely right there waiting for the signal to smoke.. __________________ MOPAR OR NO CAR IBEW Lu. 76 Rest in Peace Rob Hanson -my 95 Cummins---my 67 Cuda----not my Pro-Stocker-- ______________ \_ \| 12V CUMMINS \| \| ,\______ \|...__..._________\|====\|= ""\| "(©)'(©) *** "" (©)''(©) =''(©)° If I can't push you down the slope. I can probably pi$$ ya off enough to get ya to chase me down it!!

12-29-2006, 06:47 AM	#15 (permalink)
b.lee Cummins Nut Join Date: May 2006 Location: Michigan Posts: 426 b.lee's Truck Pics	So can i get a 'lamens' terms on the AFC Gutting? Can you get good MPG's after gutting it as long as your foot is light? __________________ 96 CTD 2500 4x4 Auto 386k Miles, Straight Pipe, #10 Plate, 3KGSK, 36psi, Isspros/A-Pillar, Prime-Loc, Amsoil 4510, Mag-Hytec, KDP Tab'd, 285 BFGs.98 Camaro Z28 LS1 98k Auto, Shift Kit, 3.73, EFI Live'd, SLP Cold Air Intake

12-29-2006, 08:45 AM	#16 (permalink)
*got...DIESEL?* Diesel Freak Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Panama City (Lynn Haven), FL Posts: 882 got...DIESEL?'s Truck Pics	remove the AFC housing from the pump via the 4 attaching bolts, as well as unhooking the boost lines. Turn it upside down, remove the 10mm headed bolt on the front. gently pry the shaft from the housing...it has an O ring that makes it a snug fit into the bore. Once the shaft is out, just lift the arm out of the housing. replace the shaft and bolt and bolt her back down. Hook up the boost lines so they're not left open, even though the AFC will no longer do anything. The pressure on the diaphram won't hurt anything, it just won't have a lever to act upon. __________________ In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!! '95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

12-29-2006, 10:29 AM	#17 (permalink)
b.lee Cummins Nut Join Date: May 2006 Location: Michigan Posts: 426 b.lee's Truck Pics	thanks. =) __________________ 96 CTD 2500 4x4 Auto 386k Miles, Straight Pipe, #10 Plate, 3KGSK, 36psi, Isspros/A-Pillar, Prime-Loc, Amsoil 4510, Mag-Hytec, KDP Tab'd, 285 BFGs.98 Camaro Z28 LS1 98k Auto, Shift Kit, 3.73, EFI Live'd, SLP Cold Air Intake

12-30-2006, 09:55 PM	#18 (permalink)
flubyux2 Cummins Nut Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 365 flubyux2's Truck Pics	alot of great, in-depth tech info! i cant wait to dig into my pump and calibrate it for my style of driving. so w/ the AFC gutted... youre in FULL control of fuel response w/ regards to engine needs... kind of like manual fuel compensation. w/o the arm in place, you can manually overcompensate and have the "cool" smoke show on demand? im afraid of that since next year... cops can hand out tickets for trucks that blow smoke like that. plus, sometimes, i am a stab it-and-go guy. i used to have an Eagle Talon turbo AWD that felt like that; stabbing it made it overfuel, bog, pull ignition timing... but rolling on the throttle felt faster. so i think i know what you mean by "Driving" the vehicle as opposed to letting the vehicle, say, drive itself? (in regards to boost-response fueling) so what is the proper tuning sequence for a stab-and-go driver? install new/custom Fuel plate roughly calibrate AFC housing ball-park it w/ the star wheel fine tune w/ the "Smoke screw"? working from coarsest adjustments to finest adjustments? then, if an application needs more fuel; installin new DV's and injectors, then a new fuel plate and begin the tuning sequence again to control the new fuel components? thanks chris

01-01-2007, 08:08 AM	#19 (permalink)
*got...DIESEL?* Diesel Freak Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Panama City (Lynn Haven), FL Posts: 882 got...DIESEL?'s Truck Pics	yup...pretty much the name of the game. You as the driver decide what is tolerable as far as smoke, power, off idle etc. By removing the Aneroid, your right foot is now the pre-boost fuel controller, which has advantages and disadvantages as well. But yes, after installing the plate, put both the star wheel and the housing in the middle of the road and drive it. Make the coarse adjustment with the housing, and once you're happy with the rough setting, fine tune it with the smoke screw. Just realize, that the housing adjustment only places the Aneroid arm farther or closer to the gov arm relatively as an initial fuel setting. The star wheel either places or removes tension via a spring from the diaphram, which in essence makes it react quicker, or slower to boost signal on the diaphram. The politically correct "fine" adjustment for housing position, would be the smoke screw on the back of the Aneroid, which most mis-name the starwheel as. There is a stud that is covered with an anti-tamper, which threads in and preloads the initial position of the Aneroid arm and is truly the fine adjustment for housing position, because in essence, both the housing position and the smoke screw setting influence the position of the arm, not the reaction rate of it. So get those two settings done first, then adjust the starwheel for your liking between smoke control to rpm, and power to pull off into power fuel. Any Q's? Chris __________________ In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!! '95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

01-02-2007, 11:15 AM	#20 (permalink)
flubyux2 Cummins Nut Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 365 flubyux2's Truck Pics	no questions yet! your synopsis is clear as daylight. i have to fight off the urge to tinker w/ the AFC or gut it untill i decide if i can indeed buy an aftermarket warranty for my truck... if i can buy an aftermarket warranty, im going to get every little thing fixed thats allowable... then do some mods. thanks! regards chris

01-31-2007, 04:59 PM	#21 (permalink)
Tippy Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 8 Tippy's Truck Pics	My question is, after compleating all the mods, can you make a 160 hp pump produce the same power as a 215 hp pump? Do the 215's already have some adjustments made to them and get thier extra power from a factory setting, or do they have compleatly differnt internals?

01-31-2007, 05:30 PM	#22 (permalink)
gstanfield Moderator Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rolling Hills, WY Posts: 800 gstanfield's Truck Pics	yes they have diffrent parts inside, but it's not to the point that a 160 pump is going to limit you very much. Most any of the mods you'll be doing to your 160 pump you would have had to do with a 215 pump. I've seen guys cranking out well over 500 hp who started with a 160 pump. The 215 pump does have a slight amount of timing advance to them from what I've heard (4 degrees was the numer told to me) but for 95% of the folks out there building a hotrod, the 160 pump is every bit as good a starting point as the 215. George __________________ 1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, KDP tabbed, silncer ring MIA, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.

02-11-2007, 02:48 PM	#24 (permalink)
gstanfield Moderator Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rolling Hills, WY Posts: 800 gstanfield's Truck Pics	yes, the afc only controls fuel below 6psi boost (or maybe 4psi, I can't remember) you should be able to smoke off the line now, but won't see much increase in power with only afc mods. Slide your stock plate forward a tad and see what you get. Also, don't get too crazy without a boost and pyrometer guage. George __________________ 1997 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 Boost control elbow, KDP tabbed, silncer ring MIA, Z-series gauges, 47RE built w/valve body & converter, #100 plate.