Easy AFC breakoff screw removal -A

Baja · 06-13-2006, 11:41 AM

I have read a number of posts about the hassles of the breakoff screw on the AFC, and how hard it is to remove. It is easy. In the center of the head is a small dimple, that will be your starting guide. Use a 1/8"x6" drill bit, carefully drill a hole 3/16" deep. You will want to follow the angle of the bolt, that is the careful part, keep the drill in line. Take a #20 torx bit and hammer it into the hole. The splines will easily cut themselves in. Once bottomed out, add a socket to the torx bit and remove the bolt. It takes 5 minutes, no hammering, no pounding, no beating. If you do completely screw up, the only thing that will happen is that the top of the bolt will shear off. Remove the other AFC bolts and using vice grips take out the sheared bolt. I have never had to do that though, the drill method has always worked for me. Good Luck.

oldsmokey94 · 06-13-2006, 12:13 PM

that sounds like a VERY good idea.
I have always had good luck with the whole screwdriver and hammer method. But, i dont have the patience to do that.
Very good find and idea.
I am sure many people will find this very useful.

__________________
'97 black dually 64mm/74mm twins, helix II, cooltwist IC, 435's, lasercuts, .093 lines & holders, 4k gsk, custom rack plug, 3850 DD, dual aussies

MR4WLR · 06-13-2006, 12:13 PM

I just thumped the wifes with a chisel a couple times and now its a slotted screw

__________________
Corey Ritter - Amity, OR
'04 Patriot Blue SRW 3500 QC 4X4 Laramie, 6spd, HO, Edge EZ, TST PowerMAXCR, Smarty, SPS 66, Rip's 4", AFE PG7 W/torque tube, FASS 150, Superlift leveling kit, Ride Rite's w/onboard air, Line-X. Torklift camper tie downs, fuel vent mod, CB, GPSmap 168, Buckstop/Warn 12,000 lb, KC Daylighters, MTL w/prolong in trans, Haisley DD, DiPricol gauges and Quad Commander. 77K
513/1043 Fast Specialties DDD 4-15-2006 TST-EZ stack, Quickest 1/4 mile ET 13.949 @ 96 MPH @ PIR
Hauls Lance "Lite" 1025 @4klbs
Wifes truck '98 Intense Blue 12V QC LB 4X4 Auto

bhaner · 06-13-2006, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR4WLR

I just thumped the wifes with a chisel a couple times and now its a slotted screw

Really?

__________________
2007 Flame Red Dodge 2500 SLT 4x4 809HP/1562+TQ 12.5 @ 108 MPH
Reloaded!

Last edited by bhaner : 06-13-2006 at 12:30 PM.

***got...DIESEL?*** · 06-13-2006, 12:40 PM

well at least Bhaner isn't the only one to take a sideways look at that one mr4wlr LOL....boys will be boys

__________________

In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!!

'95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

mhlbr · 06-13-2006, 01:29 PM

Mkline · 06-13-2006, 07:13 PM

Too late for me. 3 screws are plenty to hold the AFC housing, I hope

__________________
Matt
1995 Dodge 3500 150,000 miles, Isspro boost & pyro, custom ground plate forward, AFC forward, starwheel just enough smoke, GSK washer mod, 3" straightpipe, BHAF

Anyone Like Working On Classic Cars/Trucks? www.redwingsteelworks.com

illflem · 06-15-2006, 07:53 AM

After removing dozens of break-off screws I think my method is by far the easiest. I use a 1/4" counterclockwise drill bit at the center of the screw. Most times the bit catches and turns the screw right out, if it doesn't just drill till the screw head comes off. After you remove the rest of the screws and the housing the headless break off screw turns out easily with just your fingers.
If you don't have a left hand drill bit just drill the head off with a right hand bit.
Tons easier than fooling around with torx bits.
I always replace all of the housing screws with allen headed ones, makes it easier next time.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock

oldsmokey94 · 06-15-2006, 01:55 PM

the only thing about leaving just three in there, i have noticed on mine that the others tend to "back out" which in return leaves oil leaking out and that makes kinda a mess.
If you do just leave three in, make sure you go back every month or so and make sure they are/stay tight.

__________________
'97 black dually 64mm/74mm twins, helix II, cooltwist IC, 435's, lasercuts, .093 lines & holders, 4k gsk, custom rack plug, 3850 DD, dual aussies

Baja · 06-15-2006, 04:17 PM

[quote=illflem]After removing dozens of break-off screws I think my method is by far the easiest.

I'VE BEEN USURPED!! Just shows you there is more than one way to skin a cat.

oldsmokey94 · 06-16-2006, 09:12 PM

that is very true.
Everyone has their own way of doing things and a way of doing things that might be more comfortable for them. Not everyone does things the same or has the same idea about getting things done the right way or the easiest way.

__________________
'97 black dually 64mm/74mm twins, helix II, cooltwist IC, 435's, lasercuts, .093 lines & holders, 4k gsk, custom rack plug, 3850 DD, dual aussies

JKM · 09-12-2006, 06:14 PM

Either of those methods sounds way easier than the beat/thrash/curse/throwthings/renouncemyfaith/bust myknuckles method i used the first time.

__________________
Dad's 97 2500 2wd slt laramie, star wheel ahead , afc housing slid ahead. otherwise stock... 5 spd 285k

Mine- 95 2500 4x4, 47rh, Billet TC , shift kit, 285 timberline M/T. Bhaf intake w/ custom heat shield, 5" flo-pro ,147k. 10 plate, 191 dv's, Di Pricol pillar gauges, boost elbow, piers I/C boots timed at 17.5*
On the shelf - 3k gsk, grover air horns
coming soon- Tow mirrors, and Twins?

looking for - 97 or 98 reg cab (or ext cab short box in the 98)4x4 5 sp 12v

06-13-2006, 11:41 AM	#1 (permalink)
Baja Newbie Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 15 Baja's Truck Pics	Easy AFC breakoff screw removal -A I have read a number of posts about the hassles of the breakoff screw on the AFC, and how hard it is to remove. It is easy. In the center of the head is a small dimple, that will be your starting guide. Use a 1/8"x6" drill bit, carefully drill a hole 3/16" deep. You will want to follow the angle of the bolt, that is the careful part, keep the drill in line. Take a #20 torx bit and hammer it into the hole. The splines will easily cut themselves in. Once bottomed out, add a socket to the torx bit and remove the bolt. It takes 5 minutes, no hammering, no pounding, no beating. If you do completely screw up, the only thing that will happen is that the top of the bolt will shear off. Remove the other AFC bolts and using vice grips take out the sheared bolt. I have never had to do that though, the drill method has always worked for me. Good Luck.

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06-13-2006, 12:13 PM	#2 (permalink)
oldsmokey94 Diesel Head Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: tx Posts: 1,399 oldsmokey94's Truck Pics	that sounds like a VERY good idea. I have always had good luck with the whole screwdriver and hammer method. But, i dont have the patience to do that. Very good find and idea. I am sure many people will find this very useful. __________________ '97 black dually 64mm/74mm twins, helix II, cooltwist IC, 435's, lasercuts, .093 lines & holders, 4k gsk, custom rack plug, 3850 DD, dual aussies

06-13-2006, 12:13 PM	#3 (permalink)
MR4WLR Administrator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Amity, OR Posts: 3,629 MR4WLR's Truck Pics	I just thumped the wifes with a chisel a couple times and now its a slotted screw __________________ Corey Ritter - Amity, OR '04 Patriot Blue SRW 3500 QC 4X4 Laramie, 6spd, HO, Edge EZ, TST PowerMAXCR, Smarty, SPS 66, Rip's 4", AFE PG7 W/torque tube, FASS 150, Superlift leveling kit, Ride Rite's w/onboard air, Line-X. Torklift camper tie downs, fuel vent mod, CB, GPSmap 168, Buckstop/Warn 12,000 lb, KC Daylighters, MTL w/prolong in trans, Haisley DD, DiPricol gauges and Quad Commander. 77K 513/1043 Fast Specialties DDD 4-15-2006 TST-EZ stack, Quickest 1/4 mile ET 13.949 @ 96 MPH @ PIR Hauls Lance "Lite" 1025 @4klbs Wifes truck '98 Intense Blue 12V QC LB 4X4 Auto

06-13-2006, 12:40 PM	#5 (permalink)
*got...DIESEL?* Diesel Freak Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Panama City (Lynn Haven), FL Posts: 879 got...DIESEL?'s Truck Pics	well at least Bhaner isn't the only one to take a sideways look at that one mr4wlr LOL....boys will be boys __________________ In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!! '95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

06-13-2006, 01:29 PM	#6 (permalink)
mhlbr Newbie Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5 mhlbr's Truck Pics

06-13-2006, 07:13 PM	#7 (permalink)
Mkline Cummins Fanatic Join Date: May 2006 Location: Red Wing, MN Posts: 146 Mkline's Truck Pics	Too late for me. 3 screws are plenty to hold the AFC housing, I hope __________________ Matt 1995 Dodge 3500 150,000 miles, Isspro boost & pyro, custom ground plate forward, AFC forward, starwheel just enough smoke, GSK washer mod, 3" straightpipe, BHAF Anyone Like Working On Classic Cars/Trucks? www.redwingsteelworks.com

06-15-2006, 07:53 AM	#8 (permalink)
illflem Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Montana Posts: 1,120 illflem's Truck Pics	After removing dozens of break-off screws I think my method is by far the easiest. I use a 1/4" counterclockwise drill bit at the center of the screw. Most times the bit catches and turns the screw right out, if it doesn't just drill till the screw head comes off. After you remove the rest of the screws and the housing the headless break off screw turns out easily with just your fingers. If you don't have a left hand drill bit just drill the head off with a right hand bit. Tons easier than fooling around with torx bits. I always replace all of the housing screws with allen headed ones, makes it easier next time. __________________ Bill '95 2500 4wd auto '95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler Both far from stock

06-15-2006, 01:55 PM	#9 (permalink)
oldsmokey94 Diesel Head Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: tx Posts: 1,399 oldsmokey94's Truck Pics	the only thing about leaving just three in there, i have noticed on mine that the others tend to "back out" which in return leaves oil leaking out and that makes kinda a mess. If you do just leave three in, make sure you go back every month or so and make sure they are/stay tight. __________________ '97 black dually 64mm/74mm twins, helix II, cooltwist IC, 435's, lasercuts, .093 lines & holders, 4k gsk, custom rack plug, 3850 DD, dual aussies

06-15-2006, 04:17 PM	#10 (permalink)
Baja Newbie Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 15 Baja's Truck Pics	[quote=illflem]After removing dozens of break-off screws I think my method is by far the easiest. I'VE BEEN USURPED!! Just shows you there is more than one way to skin a cat.

06-16-2006, 09:12 PM	#11 (permalink)
oldsmokey94 Diesel Head Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: tx Posts: 1,399 oldsmokey94's Truck Pics	that is very true. Everyone has their own way of doing things and a way of doing things that might be more comfortable for them. Not everyone does things the same or has the same idea about getting things done the right way or the easiest way. __________________ '97 black dually 64mm/74mm twins, helix II, cooltwist IC, 435's, lasercuts, .093 lines & holders, 4k gsk, custom rack plug, 3850 DD, dual aussies

09-12-2006, 06:14 PM	#12 (permalink)
JKM Cummins Fan Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: SunnyVale Trailer Park Posts: 76 JKM's Truck Pics	Either of those methods sounds way easier than the beat/thrash/curse/throwthings/renouncemyfaith/bust myknuckles method i used the first time. __________________ Dad's 97 2500 2wd slt laramie, star wheel ahead , afc housing slid ahead. otherwise stock... 5 spd 285k Mine- 95 2500 4x4, 47rh, Billet TC , shift kit, 285 timberline M/T. Bhaf intake w/ custom heat shield, 5" flo-pro ,147k. 10 plate, 191 dv's, Di Pricol pillar gauges, boost elbow, piers I/C boots timed at 17.5* On the shelf - 3k gsk, grover air horns coming soon- Tow mirrors, and Twins? looking for - 97 or 98 reg cab (or ext cab short box in the 98)4x4 5 sp 12v