Auto to Manual conversion notes - A

***got...DIESEL?*** · 02-11-2006, 10:00 PM

Okay so I finished the conversion about 4 months ago, so I figured give anyone looking to do this swap a little info on everything I encountered and what i did along the way. These notes should pretty well cover everything from 94-97, beyond that there may be subtle differences I do not know about. So here goes...

1. you DO NOT need a different flywheel housing, the auto and manual housings are the same.

2. you DO NOT need to change the entire brake pedal assembly out. The auto and manuals share the same support bracket, just get the pedal set and hang it in....shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to convert it.

3. you DO NOT need to retain the main and auxilary trans coolers (I know...duh). Take them out now to make room for some compound turbos!!

4. I ordered my trans as a 98+ with a '95 extension housing. Why?
A. Because I wanted the transfer case shifter mounting bosses on the housing like my auto was. Somewhere after 98, the bracketry changed and was not secured to the extension housing. In retrospect, I found the mounting bosses to be 1" narrower anyway on the manual, as well as the shifter being closer to the tcase, requiring a removal of about 3" of shift rod, and opening up of the holes in the bracket to accomodate the narrower pattern on the housing....so if I had it to do over again, I would probably update the entire Tcase shifter and rod assembly to the 98+ style. Compounded with that, I opted for the 98+ center floor console instead of the bare boot that was offered in '94-'97. While the early shifter worked okay in the later console, a little bending was necessary to make it look and function within the boots.
B. I wanted to install the BD short shift kit, and it is only offered for the late style 98+ shift tower. Now that I have it, I love it. The gates are super narrow and the throw is less than 6". It really makes rowing the 5sp fun and crisp. I highly recommend making sure you get a trans with the 98+ top cover, or swap it on, in order tho utilize this neat little gadget. The kit installs in less than 10 minutes....at least for me, as I had the trans on the bench.

5. The manual output shaft is a larger 29 spline, and your auto uses a smaller 23 spline. You'll have to order a new input gear for the Tcase. Again, this is not a hard install, but the Tcase must be mostly disassembled to get access. There is no rocket science inside, I did the conversion in about an hour. Note that there are two different input gear bearings out there on the 241HD's. A narrow and a wide. They will interchange fine in the case, but the one you need is dictated by what you already have versus what the new gear needs, the only way you're gonna know is to run the numbers and ask. Or wait till yours is apart and take it in stride. it will be obvious, as the snap ring groove will either be close to the gear teeth, or farther up the gear snout. Either way, a new bearing is about $20..no big deal.

6. Trans mount.....auto crossmember is fine, as is the auto soft mount. The manual needs about an inch more height over the soft mount, so a simple hoop type bracket can be made or bought from an adapter oulet, to bolt on to the soft mount, then to the bottom of the trans, raising it about an inch. The front to back alignment is right on, so no need to compensate for length.

7. driveshafts will have to be made over. The rear is 6" too short, and the front is 6" too long. I share a building with a machinist, so we just made a new rear, and shortened the front. I will say, at 6" shorter, the angle is pretty steep on the front shaft. I have 2" levelers on the front, and while in the air, the cardon joints rubbed on their yokes. Once on the ground, it was just fine, but keep it in mind if you're lifted very high. A custom high angle shaft will be needed if so. Being a standard cab, I also don't have a rear carrier bearing BTW.

8. Clutch master/slave. Buy the MOPAR kit. It comes complete with the resevoir, master, slave, rods and hydraulic lines, and is prefilled and bled. But beware, SOMEWHERE along the way the mounting style was changed. Being that I ordered my trans as a 98+, the master i received had an extra 2" of rod, which flat didn't work. I ended up shortening it. Normally early 2nd gens masters merely snapped into place via a bayonet twist mount in the brake pedal support bracket throught the firewall. My master came with an extra cup with studs on it for I guess a later style of mounting. I removed it and mounted the master up using the bayonet base, which left the piston rod too long. Moral of the story, order your hydraulics per year of your truck and you'll be fine.

9. The flywheel uses longer bolts than the auto flexplate, so be sure and get the right bolts.

10. Your starter will work fine, the autos and manuals use the same one.

11. Clutches....hmm, well there's plenty to choose from. I went with the SBC ConFE 13" conversion. While the clutch can be chattery when starting in second, I found a few more RPM while slipping the clutch out, smooths it right out. In reverse and first, no chatter....and that's with 35's and 3.54's. Don't be afraid of this clutch, it is not as finicky as some report. If you have the power, don't short change yourself with the OFE just for a smooth engagement. The FE is not bad at all, but it's all relative to the driver, so my experience and expectations may be different than yours. Just suffice it to say, I am VERY pleased with the FE, and especially the size of the hub and springs from the ETH style disk as well as the extra diameter.

12. okay...electrical. I had and RH, so PCM mods were slight and simple. If you have an RE, I'm afraid I don't know what needs to be done in order to maintain cruise control. The nuetral and back-ups should be the same though and the mods for both of those are easy.....
A. Nuetral safety sw - your new clutch master has the switch built onto it, and the truck, even though an auto, also has a provision for it. There is a 2 pin plug mounted to the right side of the fuse block under the dash. It is green in color and the auto trucks simply have a jumper placed in them. Remove the jumper and plug in the master's nuetral harness and your done. Down below, you will have to wire a relay into the existing auto wires that simulate the auto's nuetral sw. I won't go into detail now, as I have already posted a diagram here... http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?...swwiring3gv.jpg ...that shows how to wire it in. In short, the function of the wires must change to both get the truck to crank, but then allow the cruise to work, as a full time nuetral signal will inhibit the cruise control. If there are any questions on this subject, I will answer email, but post here instead so others can see, and I will answer in like.
B. Back-up - the new trans will (or should) have the back-up switch already installed on the top cover. It is a simple open/close two pole switch. Just hook the positive center wire from your auto sw harness to one terminal, and the back-ups to the other and you're done. If you can scrounge up a plug from a manual truck, it's even easier, otherwise you have to deal with a molded weatherpack type plug with small terminals.

Okay I know I haven't mentioned everything, and I'm sure there are many more questions, so fire away and I'll do my best within the knowledge I gained on my '95 conversion.

Good luck and thanks for the look.
Chris

__________________

In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!!

'95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

ndurbin · 02-11-2006, 11:55 PM

One thing people seem to never mention is the costs involved. And the return money from selling the removed parts. Might help some guys weigh the costs of doing the swap.

__________________
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...tinb4k/New.gif

1994 2500 Reg. Cab 4x4 SLT Laramie CTD/DTT 330hp/765trq - Work Truck
2002 Ford F150 Super Cab - Daily Driver

***got...DIESEL?*** · 02-12-2006, 12:17 AM

Yeah, I was going to get to that, but I had to dig m,y post out of another forum....but I found it so here are the prices I ended up with.....

NEW (not reman) trans w/ 29 spline ouput .....................................$1875
I ordered it with the 98+ top cover to install a BD short shifter
I ordered it with the '95 ext housing (has bosses for tcase lever)

Bellhousing, stick, syntec, release brg, fork, pivot, trans mount...........$360

master, slave, lines, resevoir.......................................... ...............$225
no need to change the bracket, Just hang the new pedals
and spacers. All brackets have provisions to mount master
and all trucks have the firewall hole.

29 spline tcase head gear (need to replace 23 spline tcase head gear)...$225
this is not a difficult replacement, no special tools, just basic
teardown. Depending on which version of the tcase you have,
either the wide or narrow input bearing, this might need to be
changed as well to match the new head gear....a $20 bearing
mine had the wide bearing and I needed the narrow bearing.

SBC ConFE 13-1.25 conversion clutch w/flywheel............................$1300

BD short shift kit............................................... ..........................$235

98+ shift console, boots, brackets.......................................... .......$275
I liked the later style better than my era

clutch and brake pedals (w/all 6 nylon bushings and clips)...................$95

All said and done the cost is about the same as a built auto if you buy new parts as I did, so it all falls down to what you really want to have in your truck. It's a straight forward conversion. If you had a donor truck, some money could be saved, but you would still need a good clutch and to update the trans....a good half of the cost anyway.

Chris

__________________

In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!!

'95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

**Cepp** · 02-12-2006, 06:11 AM

good article.... always wondered what a conversion would cost..

__________________
'04.5 Ram 2500, H.O., Laramie, Quad Cab, 6' Bed
Silencer and the guts from the torque tube are missing.....and what happened to my muffler?

"The Chick(en) Hauler"

02-12-2006, 07:15 AM

Good write up man

This is for the NV 4500 correct?

So what would be the differences if a guy went from an auto to a NV 5600 six speed?

***got...DIESEL?*** · 02-12-2006, 12:43 PM

I'll dig up some info.....sit tight.

__________________

In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!!

'95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

02-12-2006, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by got...DIESEL?

I'll dig up some info.....sit tight.

Cool a 6 speed conversion too :jump:

You will have it all covered sounds like

ndurbin · 02-12-2006, 02:51 PM

Did you sell anything from the swap to help off-set the costs? Pedal assemblies, tranny, coolers/lines, etc.?

__________________
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...tinb4k/New.gif

1994 2500 Reg. Cab 4x4 SLT Laramie CTD/DTT 330hp/765trq - Work Truck
2002 Ford F150 Super Cab - Daily Driver

***got...DIESEL?*** · 02-12-2006, 04:33 PM

no, I kep it all...for no apparent reason, other than if I wanna go over the amount I spent on the truck and put an auto back in, I'll have all the stuff:fist: . I went through two "highend" autos before swapping out. Since then I put a billet DTT in my boss' and on race day kinda wish I had gone that route....it's one heck of a transmission. The other 75% of the time I am happy with the 5sp and have more fun driving it.

If anyone needs any parts, I do have them....23 spline tcase headgear/brg, shifters, linkage, floor boots, flexplate, bolts, coolers, some AC stuff I removed for the compounds, wiring plugs, pedal assy.

Chris

__________________

In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!!

'95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

stacerbob · 03-10-2006, 07:09 PM

I did it also. I bought a "worthless" 10 mpg V-10 for $3000. Drove it around for about a week, stripped it, used lots of misc parts & pieces & all the drivetrain parts I wanted. Only thing I had to buy was a flywheel, NAPA under $200. so $3200 now. I parted out everything after mine was going. Cleared just under $3800. So keep your eyes open. There was none of that running to the parts store or dealer. Everything you need, you just took off the donor. I love mine also, it was free & I got paid to put it in.

__________________

2003 RAM 3500 2wd Quad Cab Short Bed Single Wheel 6 Speed

2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4

1970 Ford F350 4x4 CUMMINS 12 valve swap in progress

03-10-2006, 07:17 PM

judgin by yer sig you neeeeed to get some pictures stacerbob

stacerbob · 03-10-2006, 08:07 PM

She leaves Sunday to the body shop for paint, then we will be close to pics.

This was about 2 years ago when I first got it. Took the super cool 'glass running board flares off as soon as I got home.

__________________

2003 RAM 3500 2wd Quad Cab Short Bed Single Wheel 6 Speed

2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4

1970 Ford F350 4x4 CUMMINS 12 valve swap in progress

02-11-2006, 10:00 PM	#1 (permalink)
*got...DIESEL?* Diesel Freak Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Panama City (Lynn Haven), FL Posts: 879 got...DIESEL?'s Truck Pics	Auto to Manual conversion notes - A Okay so I finished the conversion about 4 months ago, so I figured give anyone looking to do this swap a little info on everything I encountered and what i did along the way. These notes should pretty well cover everything from 94-97, beyond that there may be subtle differences I do not know about. So here goes... 1. you DO NOT need a different flywheel housing, the auto and manual housings are the same. 2. you DO NOT need to change the entire brake pedal assembly out. The auto and manuals share the same support bracket, just get the pedal set and hang it in....shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to convert it. 3. you DO NOT need to retain the main and auxilary trans coolers (I know...duh). Take them out now to make room for some compound turbos!! 4. I ordered my trans as a 98+ with a '95 extension housing. Why? A. Because I wanted the transfer case shifter mounting bosses on the housing like my auto was. Somewhere after 98, the bracketry changed and was not secured to the extension housing. In retrospect, I found the mounting bosses to be 1" narrower anyway on the manual, as well as the shifter being closer to the tcase, requiring a removal of about 3" of shift rod, and opening up of the holes in the bracket to accomodate the narrower pattern on the housing....so if I had it to do over again, I would probably update the entire Tcase shifter and rod assembly to the 98+ style. Compounded with that, I opted for the 98+ center floor console instead of the bare boot that was offered in '94-'97. While the early shifter worked okay in the later console, a little bending was necessary to make it look and function within the boots. B. I wanted to install the BD short shift kit, and it is only offered for the late style 98+ shift tower. Now that I have it, I love it. The gates are super narrow and the throw is less than 6". It really makes rowing the 5sp fun and crisp. I highly recommend making sure you get a trans with the 98+ top cover, or swap it on, in order tho utilize this neat little gadget. The kit installs in less than 10 minutes....at least for me, as I had the trans on the bench. 5. The manual output shaft is a larger 29 spline, and your auto uses a smaller 23 spline. You'll have to order a new input gear for the Tcase. Again, this is not a hard install, but the Tcase must be mostly disassembled to get access. There is no rocket science inside, I did the conversion in about an hour. Note that there are two different input gear bearings out there on the 241HD's. A narrow and a wide. They will interchange fine in the case, but the one you need is dictated by what you already have versus what the new gear needs, the only way you're gonna know is to run the numbers and ask. Or wait till yours is apart and take it in stride. it will be obvious, as the snap ring groove will either be close to the gear teeth, or farther up the gear snout. Either way, a new bearing is about $20..no big deal. 6. Trans mount.....auto crossmember is fine, as is the auto soft mount. The manual needs about an inch more height over the soft mount, so a simple hoop type bracket can be made or bought from an adapter oulet, to bolt on to the soft mount, then to the bottom of the trans, raising it about an inch. The front to back alignment is right on, so no need to compensate for length. 7. driveshafts will have to be made over. The rear is 6" too short, and the front is 6" too long. I share a building with a machinist, so we just made a new rear, and shortened the front. I will say, at 6" shorter, the angle is pretty steep on the front shaft. I have 2" levelers on the front, and while in the air, the cardon joints rubbed on their yokes. Once on the ground, it was just fine, but keep it in mind if you're lifted very high. A custom high angle shaft will be needed if so. Being a standard cab, I also don't have a rear carrier bearing BTW. 8. Clutch master/slave. Buy the MOPAR kit. It comes complete with the resevoir, master, slave, rods and hydraulic lines, and is prefilled and bled. But beware, SOMEWHERE along the way the mounting style was changed. Being that I ordered my trans as a 98+, the master i received had an extra 2" of rod, which flat didn't work. I ended up shortening it. Normally early 2nd gens masters merely snapped into place via a bayonet twist mount in the brake pedal support bracket throught the firewall. My master came with an extra cup with studs on it for I guess a later style of mounting. I removed it and mounted the master up using the bayonet base, which left the piston rod too long. Moral of the story, order your hydraulics per year of your truck and you'll be fine. 9. The flywheel uses longer bolts than the auto flexplate, so be sure and get the right bolts. 10. Your starter will work fine, the autos and manuals use the same one. 11. Clutches....hmm, well there's plenty to choose from. I went with the SBC ConFE 13" conversion. While the clutch can be chattery when starting in second, I found a few more RPM while slipping the clutch out, smooths it right out. In reverse and first, no chatter....and that's with 35's and 3.54's. Don't be afraid of this clutch, it is not as finicky as some report. If you have the power, don't short change yourself with the OFE just for a smooth engagement. The FE is not bad at all, but it's all relative to the driver, so my experience and expectations may be different than yours. Just suffice it to say, I am VERY pleased with the FE, and especially the size of the hub and springs from the ETH style disk as well as the extra diameter. 12. okay...electrical. I had and RH, so PCM mods were slight and simple. If you have an RE, I'm afraid I don't know what needs to be done in order to maintain cruise control. The nuetral and back-ups should be the same though and the mods for both of those are easy..... A. Nuetral safety sw - your new clutch master has the switch built onto it, and the truck, even though an auto, also has a provision for it. There is a 2 pin plug mounted to the right side of the fuse block under the dash. It is green in color and the auto trucks simply have a jumper placed in them. Remove the jumper and plug in the master's nuetral harness and your done. Down below, you will have to wire a relay into the existing auto wires that simulate the auto's nuetral sw. I won't go into detail now, as I have already posted a diagram here... http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?...swwiring3gv.jpg ...that shows how to wire it in. In short, the function of the wires must change to both get the truck to crank, but then allow the cruise to work, as a full time nuetral signal will inhibit the cruise control. If there are any questions on this subject, I will answer email, but post here instead so others can see, and I will answer in like. B. Back-up - the new trans will (or should) have the back-up switch already installed on the top cover. It is a simple open/close two pole switch. Just hook the positive center wire from your auto sw harness to one terminal, and the back-ups to the other and you're done. If you can scrounge up a plug from a manual truck, it's even easier, otherwise you have to deal with a molded weatherpack type plug with small terminals. Okay I know I haven't mentioned everything, and I'm sure there are many more questions, so fire away and I'll do my best within the knowledge I gained on my '95 conversion. Good luck and thanks for the look. Chris __________________ In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!! '95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

02-12-2006, 07:15 AM	#5 (permalink)
Guest Posts: n/a	Excellent Article Chris Good write up man This is for the NV 4500 correct? So what would be the differences if a guy went from an auto to a NV 5600 six speed?

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02-11-2006, 11:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
ndurbin Diesel Head Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Medicine Lodge, Kansas Posts: 1,481 ndurbin's Truck Pics	One thing people seem to never mention is the costs involved. And the return money from selling the removed parts. Might help some guys weigh the costs of doing the swap. __________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...tinb4k/New.gif 1994 2500 Reg. Cab 4x4 SLT Laramie CTD/DTT 330hp/765trq - Work Truck 2002 Ford F150 Super Cab - Daily Driver

02-12-2006, 12:17 AM	#3 (permalink)
*got...DIESEL?* Diesel Freak Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Panama City (Lynn Haven), FL Posts: 879 got...DIESEL?'s Truck Pics	Yeah, I was going to get to that, but I had to dig m,y post out of another forum....but I found it so here are the prices I ended up with..... NEW (not reman) trans w/ 29 spline ouput .....................................$1875 I ordered it with the 98+ top cover to install a BD short shifter I ordered it with the '95 ext housing (has bosses for tcase lever) Bellhousing, stick, syntec, release brg, fork, pivot, trans mount...........$360 master, slave, lines, resevoir.......................................... ...............$225 no need to change the bracket, Just hang the new pedals and spacers. All brackets have provisions to mount master and all trucks have the firewall hole. 29 spline tcase head gear (need to replace 23 spline tcase head gear)...$225 this is not a difficult replacement, no special tools, just basic teardown. Depending on which version of the tcase you have, either the wide or narrow input bearing, this might need to be changed as well to match the new head gear....a $20 bearing mine had the wide bearing and I needed the narrow bearing. SBC ConFE 13-1.25 conversion clutch w/flywheel............................$1300 BD short shift kit............................................... ..........................$235 98+ shift console, boots, brackets.......................................... .......$275 I liked the later style better than my era clutch and brake pedals (w/all 6 nylon bushings and clips)...................$95 All said and done the cost is about the same as a built auto if you buy new parts as I did, so it all falls down to what you really want to have in your truck. It's a straight forward conversion. If you had a donor truck, some money could be saved, but you would still need a good clutch and to update the trans....a good half of the cost anyway. Chris __________________ In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!! '95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

02-12-2006, 06:11 AM	#4 (permalink)
Cepp Ohio Chapter president Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Lancaster, OH Posts: 834 Cepp's Truck Pics	good article.... always wondered what a conversion would cost.. __________________ '04.5 Ram 2500, H.O., Laramie, Quad Cab, 6' Bed Silencer and the guts from the torque tube are missing.....and what happened to my muffler? "The Chick(en) Hauler"

02-12-2006, 12:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
*got...DIESEL?* Diesel Freak Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Panama City (Lynn Haven), FL Posts: 879 got...DIESEL?'s Truck Pics	I'll dig up some info.....sit tight. __________________ In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!! '95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

02-12-2006, 02:51 PM	#8 (permalink)
ndurbin Diesel Head Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Medicine Lodge, Kansas Posts: 1,481 ndurbin's Truck Pics	Did you sell anything from the swap to help off-set the costs? Pedal assemblies, tranny, coolers/lines, etc.? __________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...tinb4k/New.gif 1994 2500 Reg. Cab 4x4 SLT Laramie CTD/DTT 330hp/765trq - Work Truck 2002 Ford F150 Super Cab - Daily Driver

02-12-2006, 04:33 PM	#9 (permalink)
*got...DIESEL?* Diesel Freak Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Panama City (Lynn Haven), FL Posts: 879 got...DIESEL?'s Truck Pics	no, I kep it all...for no apparent reason, other than if I wanna go over the amount I spent on the truck and put an auto back in, I'll have all the stuff:fist: . I went through two "highend" autos before swapping out. Since then I put a billet DTT in my boss' and on race day kinda wish I had gone that route....it's one heck of a transmission. The other 75% of the time I am happy with the 5sp and have more fun driving it. If anyone needs any parts, I do have them....23 spline tcase headgear/brg, shifters, linkage, floor boots, flexplate, bolts, coolers, some AC stuff I removed for the compounds, wiring plugs, pedal assy. Chris __________________ In NW Florida? Get a hold of me...it's time Dodge makes it statement in these parts!! '95 2500 Std Cab 4X4... DTT billet trans and billet triple disc, billet flexplate, compound turbos, AEM Dryflow, 160 pump, custom plate, 191's, EDM370's, peaked and tweaked AFC, rack control plug, 20*, 3K, head studs, marine +.020 HG, Water/meth

03-10-2006, 07:09 PM	#10 (permalink)
stacerbob Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: NE ARKANSAS Posts: 18 stacerbob's Truck Pics	I did it also. I bought a "worthless" 10 mpg V-10 for $3000. Drove it around for about a week, stripped it, used lots of misc parts & pieces & all the drivetrain parts I wanted. Only thing I had to buy was a flywheel, NAPA under $200. so $3200 now. I parted out everything after mine was going. Cleared just under $3800. So keep your eyes open. There was none of that running to the parts store or dealer. Everything you need, you just took off the donor. I love mine also, it was free & I got paid to put it in. __________________ 2003 RAM 3500 2wd Quad Cab Short Bed Single Wheel 6 Speed 2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 1970 Ford F350 4x4 CUMMINS 12 valve swap in progress

03-10-2006, 07:17 PM	#11 (permalink)
2001shrtbedcummins Posts: n/a	judgin by yer sig you neeeeed to get some pictures stacerbob

03-10-2006, 08:07 PM	#12 (permalink)
stacerbob Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: NE ARKANSAS Posts: 18 stacerbob's Truck Pics	She leaves Sunday to the body shop for paint, then we will be close to pics. This was about 2 years ago when I first got it. Took the super cool 'glass running board flares off as soon as I got home. __________________ 2003 RAM 3500 2wd Quad Cab Short Bed Single Wheel 6 Speed 2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 1970 Ford F350 4x4 CUMMINS 12 valve swap in progress