Head Removal

[03psd]

I need to get a broken bolt (and easy out ) removed from #6 exhaust port. I figured I might as well have the head cleaned and checked, 60# valve springs added, new valves, maybe a little port and polish. Looking at this motor, what is the prodecure for removing the head? I am concerned about the hard fuel lines and all the mess that goes along with the P pump. Its tough for me to tell what is mounted to the head and what is mounted to the side of the block. The motor is out of the truck.

[DiscountPowerParts1]

Its pretty self explanatory. Not to be rude... I'm going to say something that in typing will sound as if I am insulting you, but I am not at all......Look at the head gasket interface. Everything above this is with the head..... That was serious. Now, as for the hard lines from the pump, you will need to remove them. All of this is easy with the engine out because you can look around and work from any angle you choose. The intake side is cast as a part of the head. Only the intake top plate can be removed. Remove some of the rockers and you will start to locate all of the head bolts. There is not much to it. Its heavy. As in 180 lbs heavy.... so dont try to slide it away by yourself. Get help! You'll get it, just get a sharpie pen and some freezer bags and put pushrods, rockers, valve bridges, injectors and fuel lines in the respective bags marked off as Cylinder 1,2,3,4,5 and 6. This way for re-assembly you can go bag by bag and put everything back where it started. If your removing the pump, it is timed to the crank. You need to run around to TDC and aling your marks accordingly. Maybe someone on here knows of a pictorial blow-by-blow that can guid you?

Anyone?

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[DiscountPowerParts1]

Sorry... Did I say valve bridges... on a 12V!!! My bad. You got it easy, no 4 valve holes.

__________________

www.DiscountPowerParts.com

866-547-3517
AMSOIL - The home of the 25,000 Mile Oil Change!

Check out Discount Power Parts new face, Hi-Performance Diesel!
http://truckpulls.com/phpBB2/garage....d&image_id=217

[rol'n_coal 12v]

its pretty easy with the engine out just remove all of the hard lines completely just watch for the copper gaskets behind the banjo bolts. remove the filter housing from the intake top plate, remove inj. lines, and return line, remove the head bolts all 26 of them. and the 6 little bolts from the rockers, and as stated above put each respective rocker assm, and push rods in marked baggies for re assembly.

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'96 p-pumped 24v,too much done...engine build underway
02 psd stock 400.5hp 798tq

[03psd]

No problems, no offense taken. I am a gas and PSD guy wanting to drop a 12v into my SD Ford. The last straight 6 I worked on was a 225 in my 1971 Plymouth Valiant. Assume nothing.

Am I correct in my understanding that:

1. the fuel lines need to be disconnected from both the pump and the injectors? Save these lines or replace?

2. The thermo housing is attached to the head?

3. the engine hoist currently holding this beast upright is connected to lifting points that are also part of the head?

4. i pumped the fuel primed and got soaked in diesel. Should I use this to drain whatever fuel is still in the pump and lines?

Thanks

[rol'n_coal 12v]

i am a psd guy also but i bought the cummins to prove a point to some people first thing i would do is make something to hold the engine upright on the floor or an engine stand. the thermostat housing is bolted to the head although you will need to remove the bracket over to the alternator, i would save all the hard fuel lines esp. the injection lines as they are expensive and unless they leak i see no need in replacing them. my method for draining the fuel is remove the lines they will drain themselves lol i hope this helps. these engines are simple in comparison to a psd no need to overthink the task hope this helps

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'96 p-pumped 24v,too much done...engine build underway
02 psd stock 400.5hp 798tq