Fuel heater

[Top Matt]

Great site... I have a '98 12v. Has always run great. Now it will drain the fuel filter and shut down. Replaced the lift pump, dropped the tank and cleaned out everything inside. Cleaned out the screen in the fuel heater. Finally tried adding an electric pump and noticed a leak from the electrical fitting on the fuel heater. Any ideas on why this would leak??? Also, does any one know if this is a dealer only item? Thanks... I'll keep searching previous threads, but for now, I'm confused.....


Top Matt

[lance0730]

Originally Posted by Top Matt

Great site... I have a '98 12v. Has always run great. Now it will drain the fuel filter and shut down. Replaced the lift pump, dropped the tank and cleaned out everything inside. Cleaned out the screen in the fuel heater. Finally tried adding an electric pump and noticed a leak from the electrical fitting on the fuel heater. Any ideas on why this would leak??? Also, does any one know if this is a dealer only item? Thanks... I'll keep searching previous threads, but for now, I'm confused.....


Top Matt

A lot of guys just take there's off(fuel heater) because it an un-needed item really considering its an extra place for air leaks and there is at min. a quart of cold fuel when you crank the engine over on a cold morning anyways.

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96 2500 GONE! New 1996 3500: Full billet DTT, pac brake, #10,timing,AFC spring kit,3GSK,5X12s,58/14 Hybrid, lockup controller,3 piece, 105,000MI

[Top Matt]

Thanks for the quick reply. Do most leave it on, put a reducer on the lift pump and run it straight from the fuel tank? Or, take the whole bracket off from behind the lift pump? I'm all about a cheap, easy fix.


Top Matt

[illflem]

I prefer to keep the fuel heater intact since I live where it gets below zero every winter.
The heater is rebuildable with parts from Cummins
heater element upper quad ring 3834185-s
heater strainer kit 3845400-s
heater element 3907766-s
cable harness 3843722-s

You likely only need the harness, about $50

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock

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Last edited by illflem : 08-10-2008 at 04:54 PM.

[Racer9]

Read this; Joe G's fuel system writeup

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'96 CTD, 4X4 flatbed, Isspro gauges, Skyjacker D-25's, ThurenFab track bar, lockRite.

Motor; BHAF, #100 fuel plate, Shimmed gov springs, Loose starwheel.

Exhaust; 16cm housing, 4" downpipe, 5" turnout stacks.

Trans; Dunrite VB/TC, Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.

[Dual K20s]

The fuel heater is a good concept, but has limited effectiveness. The truck has to start and run for the first few minutes on un-heated fuel, so really it doesn't help when its needed most. And it does nothing for the fuel in the lines or the fuel/water in the filter.

If you remove the screen you can use a allen key to remove the screw that mounts the heater. The screen will bolt right on without the heater in place.

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98 Dodge 2500 Motor: 12 valve, BD exhaust brake, 4" turbo back exhaust, BHAF, KDP tabbed, 4K GSK, O-ringed head, .020 over HG, Modified AFC, DDP Stage 3 injectors, DDP DVs, 17.5* timing, 16cm^2 ex. housing Drivetrain: 5-speed 4x4 w/ SB clutch (13" OFE 450Hp)

[4ropr]

if ya really want to replace it, i just took mine out {per JOEG} and haven't thrown it away yet i will send it to ya...

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'97 Ram 2500, Custom White Paint, Barbed Wire Pin Stripe, Decals Stripped, Ext. Cab, 4 X 4, 35" MasterCraft Courser A/T's, Any Road Any Time! Fuel Plate slid, Star Screw out.

http://www.myspace.com/illinoiscumminscrew

[Joe G.]

Rebuilding the fuel heater may be a waste of time anyway. The sensor that causes it to come on usually burns up and shorts. That is what causes the heater element to burn up in the first place. The fuel heater relay can stick and cause the sensor to burn up. The thing is really useless no matter where you live. There was a discussion of this on the TDR a couple of years ago. Some mechanics for UPS chimed in that the fuel heater was not used on their Cummins powered trucks. One guy was in upstate NY. The other guy was in Alaska.

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KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3.54,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,TST #5,370 injectors,DTT TC/VB, Cummins chrome kit.

[illflem]

I have to disagree with you Calif guys who live where it doesn't get cold on the usefulness of the heater. Seems you don't understand how fuel gels. Common misconception is the fuel gels solid like jello when in fact most stays liquid, it's just wax particles that are in all diesel fuel that turn solid in the cold. The fuel gets cloudy, not solid. Fuel will still pump from the tank until the wax clogs the filter. Problem here is that you can usually get a few miles from home in minus 30° weather before the filter plugs and your engine finally quits.
Fuel heater prevents this from happening.
Granted if you use anti-gel additives or winterized fuel this shouldn't happen but my feeling is why take the chance of being forced to walk home freezing your azz off if you don't have to.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock

[Joe G.]

I had considered that until I discussed the situation with some guys who live in very cold places and are running a Cummins application that doesn't use the fuel heater. Like UPS trucks.

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KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3.54,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,TST #5,370 injectors,DTT TC/VB, Cummins chrome kit.

[MX26]

Mine shorted and burned up, then caused an air leak. Took it off in mid December and haven't looked back since. Just take the bolt out of the bottom, use an allen wrench or hex head to take the heater retainer out, then put the cup back on the bottom and snug her up.

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94 12V Reg Cab 2WD - NV4500
4" FBD straight, #100, 3GSK, Autometer Pyro/Boost