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13 spd trany conversion

84K views 224 replies 80 participants last post by  drooling piston 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm sure this will get a lot of people thinking "WHY" lets just say I have tinkeritis and want to have more overdrive when empty and a gear spacing that is only about 200rpms apart when towing heavy over mountain passes.

After looking into many options for all different types of tranys both auto and manual, I decided on a fuller roadranger RTOO9513. Parts are available to bolt it right onto our little cummins. There will be some cutting and welding involved at the floor pan trany tunnel (for extra space) and frame rails for trany mounts.

I thought someone on here might enjoy at least reading about it and looking at pictures as the build goes.

Unloading the trany complete with 14inch clutch, flywheel and flywheel adapter for the back of the block.


The pieces I've gathered up before starting.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Another step in "preparation" was moving the exhaust outside of the frame rails since this trany is so wide there will not be room for it and the exhaust.
I run a 5inch exhaust with a resonator and a muffler. Here is where I started


I made a "custom" down pipe that goes around the A/C receiver tank then comes out through a cut in the inner fender and over the frame rail. I had to use 4inch here to get the bends tight enough.


Here is a picture of the finished exhaust from underneath


from the side including squashing my 7inch tip into an oval so it didn't end up too low to the ground.
 
#3 ·
Subscribed! What is the weight of the new unit vs the stock one?
 
#5 ·
quite a bit more

fullers web site shows the trany alone as 660lbs + bell housing + 14inch clutch + flywheel + etc

I don't know what the 47RE with converter and flex plate weigh and the block adapter is aluminum

I got a scale weight for the whole truck, before and after I added a custom made canopy. I planned to re-weigh the truck after I'm done and compare it to the previous weight to see where I end up. I will post that up later, in a couple weeks.
 
#4 · (Edited)
yesterday was the day to "dive in"
I pulled the 47RE out. so the truck is down until it can move with the 13spd


then the flex plate, starter, cooler lines, cross member, shift linkage, tps cable


the block adapter has to go too


this stuff is all for sale and will be in the classified section soon

enough computer work for today I have to get back out to the shop and get the oil cooler out.
Ive been wanting to install a Fass pump to eliminate all the air sucking stuff on the left side of the block, well now it is way too easy to reach all that with no trany in the way! so today the lift pump, fuel pre screen/heater, fuel filter & housing is all coming out too.
 
#6 ·
Sweet. Looking forward to watching this project.
 
#7 ·
are you going to use air to shift the spliter or twin stick it.
 
#8 ·
air.
I have a little compressor on board for the air bags in the back and to operate my exhaust brake on the VGT so I will tap into the small air tank for the shifter too.
 
#9 ·
I got the rest of the "dirty" (anything that I expect will drip oil, fuel or coolant) things off the truck. the oil cooler and the trany cooler up front were a pain to get off! I thought I was going to have to pull the front bumper to get that cooler off the front but I massaged it a little and got it out.

Next step
I'll do a good clean up on the floor and then pull the front seats, roll back the carpet and cut out the floor.
it will be a couple days till I get back out there to do much
 
#13 ·
a 009513 is a very good choice you can split top 4 gears loaded it is rated for 950lbs touqe.it will never break.i drove one for years good luck.
 
#16 ·
Pretty sweet project. How much did the fuller with clutch an all run ya?
 
#17 ·
Sub'ed good luck...... How are you going to handle the driveline?
 
#21 ·
i gotta watch this soooo cool .... my truck is a toy to tow my 5th wheel less than a 1000miles a yeat with but it might be worth doing just for fun my truck is not mint so why not play...subscribing
 
#24 · (Edited)

I expect that I will be skipping gears. especially the lower ones

timesublime; I forgot this chart included weights too so that better answers your question.
 
#25 ·
My plan for the driveline was to have a local shop build one. When I talked to them at Drive lines NW we were thinking make a short front shaft with a big yoke on the front and then adapt it down to fit in the slip joint part of my rear drive line at the carrier bearing.

as to the cost,
building a torque tough auto + triple disk converter runs 4,000+ and I still would not like the way they shift and can not use the exhaust brake feature in lower gears.

buying a used nv4500 + from someone on here goes 2,500+ "good" clutch set up + shipping

good luck finding a nv5600+another 1,000 for a core that I don't have

I found a rebuilt RTOO9513 in a wrecking yard here in Washington for about 2,000+ core they did not have a flywheel adapter, flywheel or clutch and it has the 2in input shaft,

I found another RTOO9513 in a wrecking yard in Iowa the trany is still in a crane carrier bolted behind a cat engine. I think he quoted me about 1,500 + shipping

then mr.mindless (member here) adverised he is parting out his truck with a 13spd conversion done and running
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...truck-97-p7100-24v-13sp-plus-some-extras.html

that was just too easy to have all the parts I need and know they all fit together including the starter and drive line
so I paid him the 3,500 bucks and it was about 550 to have a 1200lb crate trucked across the country.
 
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#27 ·
Sounds like an awesome setup. Can't beat the price on it either.
 
#28 · (Edited)
some side by side pictures of the two tranys
the 13 is not really any longer than the auto and does not drop down much from the top of the bell-housing


see the 13 is a lot wider than the auto


Here are the 2 flywheel adapters
the one for the 13 is an SAE#2, it is much deeper to make room for the flywheel and clutch.
I will have to make/weld mounts on the frame rails to line up with the mounts you see here on top of the adapter.

this particular adapter puts the starter on the passenger side of the engine. I'm glad the exhaust is now out of the way and won't be overheating the starter.
 
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