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Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
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| 94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Newbie
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ISB mods without pyrometer
I just bought a 1997 24' Ford box truck with an ISB. I plan on using it to transport our stuff to Austin TX from L.A., then I'll eventually sell it. First of all, I'm stoked that I finally own an ISB. secondly, I'm wondering if a little time with a screwdriver might save me some money and get me there faster Its obviously a 12v with a P7100, rated at 190hp. The truck is rated 26k GVW. I'll be well below that, but I will be towing a car trailer at about 7000 lbs. I don't have the time or resources right now to install a pyrometer, but I was curious if there is something that could be done. I would hate to make this 1400-mile trip only to later realize that there was torque and efficiency left on the table. If I could save a few bucks on the trip, or cross a mountain a few MPH faster, it would be great, but if I shouldn't do it without a pyro, let me know. Can I turn it up some? Any links to sites with a description of how to do it? Should I leave it alone? Thanks. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Diesel Freak
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There is no value that you can put on saftey #1. #2 installing a pyrometer involves drilling on the exhaust manifold, this is probably something rather easy but the room for error is nil. Eiether way and have some fun with that thing let er smoke.
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-03' 5.9L w/Edge Mileage Max, 4" TBE, GHD, Modular Intake, Boost elbow -85" Mustang GT CFI -70" 440+6 Challenger R/T |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
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isb is the 24v , 12v are b's. anyway i wouldnt add fuel with out a pyro. it doesnt take much for egt's to get sky high.
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02 2wd club cab,short bed auto. custom bahf (kn) and mounting tray heat shield, mprb 4" and airdog 100,silencer ring removed,adrenaline with pulse
Last edited by 02isb : 07-12-2008 at 06:34 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Cummins Nut
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yea but i think him moving the stock plate forward would be safe enough as long as you dont pull huge weight and are on the throttle for extreme periods of time. that should give you like another 30 horse and some good torque for free man. but i would still feel better if you had a pyro in there. if you do, make sure you tap your exhaust manifold to the REAR half of it. theres a divider in the middle you dont want to hit (like i happened to do) plus the last cyls are the hottest so you want to keep an eye on them anyway.
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3.55s, 305/70/16s, MBRP 4''Turbo Back, #100 Full Forward, AFE ProDry Stage 1, DDP3s, Boost Elbow, AFC !MIA Silencer Ring !MIA, 55 PSI, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Trans, KDP Tabbed, Built 47re, Farmboys Full Cut DVs, 3k GSK, ATS Quikspool |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Newbie
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Ok, thanks guys. If I have the time I'll pyro it first. I was looking at it and I think its actually going to be really simple to unbolt the turbo and then I can vacuum out any shavings. Since its a medium duty truck, the entire hood folds forward. I'm just always so paranoid about getting shavings in the turbo. So theoretically, if I pyro it, I could turn it up and as long as I keep it under 1100 I should be good? |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Cummins Nut
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ive never hit more that 1150 in my truck. pyro tapped to the back of the manifold...stock turbo. but then again i am overboosting a little. but the turbo is still in good shape! wheels are tight and no turbo bark or fluttering.
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3.55s, 305/70/16s, MBRP 4''Turbo Back, #100 Full Forward, AFE ProDry Stage 1, DDP3s, Boost Elbow, AFC !MIA Silencer Ring !MIA, 55 PSI, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Trans, KDP Tabbed, Built 47re, Farmboys Full Cut DVs, 3k GSK, ATS Quikspool |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Diesel Freak
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Your fine up to 1350, a little higher on short bursts but watch it or youll be walking home. Depending on where you live (elevation) even a stock setup can produce extremely high EGTs. Best/safest bet is to throw a gauge on it first, Even if you spent $600 on gauges its cheaper than a $6000 rebuild!
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97 Ram 2500 / 5.9ctd / 5spd / nv4500 / 4x4 / np241 Starwheel cranked, no plate, autometer pyro and boost gauges, Single 4" stack, 33x10.5 Mud terrains, tons more to come
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#9 (permalink) |
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Cummins Nut
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^^ x12!! theres some advice to be posted as sticky if it isnt already
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3.55s, 305/70/16s, MBRP 4''Turbo Back, #100 Full Forward, AFE ProDry Stage 1, DDP3s, Boost Elbow, AFC !MIA Silencer Ring !MIA, 55 PSI, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Trans, KDP Tabbed, Built 47re, Farmboys Full Cut DVs, 3k GSK, ATS Quikspool |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Newbie
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Best guess so far I'm getting around 9 mpg which isn't too bad... about what I expected. That has also included a fair amount of street driving, so I'm hoping for 10+ out on the highway. I'm more concerned about my little 190hp with a 26k GVW truck towing 7000. It might be a slow trip ![]() Thanks for the help |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Diesel Freak
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wow, you have some serious issues if your getting 9mpg empty... I get 18-19 in town and mid 20s on the highway
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97 Ram 2500 / 5.9ctd / 5spd / nv4500 / 4x4 / np241 Starwheel cranked, no plate, autometer pyro and boost gauges, Single 4" stack, 33x10.5 Mud terrains, tons more to come
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#12 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fanatic
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he's driving a box truck so maybe read the entire post?
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-02 dodge e/c s/b, black sport, 24 vavle ctd, 35's, 4 inch straight pipe, cai, edge ez, lock-up switch. -85 r/c s/b, rebuilt 22r, .040 over, cam, 2.25 w/flo-pro. tg 5 inch lift. 35 baja claws |
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