4000k govener spring kit

[evil12Vcummins]

ok i got the springs to rev up to 4000 rpm. do i have to make any other modifications for my motor to handle that kind of rpm's. my buddy told me that i have to get new valve springs. is this true

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94 12V , #4 tst fuel plate, cranked star wheel, dual side by side 5" stacks, AFE stage 2 intake

[RJPotts]

You don't HAVE to...but you won't be safe if you decide to hammer on it hard.
60# valve springs are cheap insurance.
I would strongly recommend it.
-R.J.

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1998 2500 QC SB 4x4 White DDP 4s, O-ringed "cool" head, HT 64/12, Full Garmonized SunCoast, billet front to back, 4" straight pipe to 6" miter cuts, pump plug, no plate, AFC disabled, 5K GSK, far more to come.....

[Bomaster238]

i would STRONGLY recommend 60# valve springs.

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94 12valve 5 speed. custom 5" single stack,AFE intake,Holset H1E, bosch 370s, TST #6, Schied Diesel DVs, HD valve springs, A-meter Pyro and boost, boost elbow, KPD killed,16.5*, 550hp clutch on the way, leveling kit

[1970 300 SEL]

not to hijack but how do the 4000s affect driveability?

i ve heard of idle issues, sudden throttle stalling and stuff of that nature.

i was under the impression they did nothing except prevent defueling

why has there been past comments about 4000s "sucking on the street" and yet other people love the extended rpm range?

[Dual K20s]

The stiffer springs do affect how the governor reacts at all rpms. But a properly setup kit should not have any of those mentioned problems. The governor is not someplace to take precision lightly, you must take the spring swap seriously. Typically the throttle is touchier and may be more difficult to drive smoothly but a little seat time helps a lot.

People often forget that the governor does more than limit fuel at a certain rpm

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98 Dodge 2500 Motor: 12 valve, BD exhaust brake, 4" turbo back exhaust, BHAF, KDP tabbed, 4K GSK, O-ringed head, .020 over HG, Modified AFC, DDP Stage 3 injectors, DDP DVs, 17.5* timing, 16cm^2 ex. housing Drivetrain: 5-speed 4x4 w/ SB clutch (13" OFE 450Hp)

[Dual K20s]

And my two cents is that exhaust springs cost $55, and an engine cost thousands

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98 Dodge 2500 Motor: 12 valve, BD exhaust brake, 4" turbo back exhaust, BHAF, KDP tabbed, 4K GSK, O-ringed head, .020 over HG, Modified AFC, DDP Stage 3 injectors, DDP DVs, 17.5* timing, 16cm^2 ex. housing Drivetrain: 5-speed 4x4 w/ SB clutch (13" OFE 450Hp)

[1970 300 SEL]

isnt it $110 since you need 12?

i heard buying 6 was for stock governors with exhaust brakes and 12 were needed for the 4K gsk ?

[Dual K20s]

No
If you think about the 4 cycles in our engine you'll realize that it would take almost 180* of crankshaft rotation for the piston to contact an intake valve that stayed open to long. The stockers aren't that bad

Although if you have the money and are doing the exhaust you might as well do the intake to get a new set of springs and be able to keep them closed tight for high boost. But like I say its not a necessity

[ykdave]

Originally Posted by Dual K20s

No
If you think about the 4 cycles in our engine you'll realize that it would take almost 180* of crankshaft rotation for the piston to contact an intake valve that stayed open to long. The stockers aren't that bad

Although if you have the money and are doing the exhaust you might as well do the intake to get a new set of springs and be able to keep them closed tight for high boost. But like I say its not a necessity

Haha, but think of it in another way...

Once you experience valve float, even if the valve stays open for a fraction of a second thats enough to have the piston smack it!

@ 4000rpm each piston passes TDC 66 times a second, depending on the piston-valve clearances its pretty easy to smack a valve!

These diesels can be much worse than a gasser since they run not even 1/4 of the spring pressure!

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97 Ram 2500 5.9ctd 5spd nv4500 4x4 np241
Starwheel cranked, home made 0 plate, autometer pyro and boost gauges, Single 4" stack, 33x10.5 Mud terrains, tons more to come

[Dual K20s]

But the exhaust side (which has to move out of the way as the piston "chases" it back) doesn't become a problem until ~3200-3500rpm where a few degrees mean failure, I stand by my statement that the stock intakes will suffice for 4k

By your theory, You would want the stiffest springs possible for even stock rpms......can you say, flattened cam and tuliped valves?

[ykdave]

Nothing wrong with stock springs at stock rpms, just dont float them....

Maybe my ref to a gasser didnt make much sense...

When a diesel floats valves the lack of spring pressure allows the valve to stay open considderably longer than a gasser would since it has ALOT more spring pressure. Depending on the engine a gasser can just be held WOT with the valves floating and run till it burns a valve or something falls apart whereas a diesel would be alot more likely to 'drop' a valve from over revving and floating them.


Just my .02 on the matter. Besides, for the cost of 12 60# springs, why would you take the chances. I have even seen them come cheap as a set with 12 60# spings and a GSK kit...

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97 Ram 2500 5.9ctd 5spd nv4500 4x4 np241
Starwheel cranked, home made 0 plate, autometer pyro and boost gauges, Single 4" stack, 33x10.5 Mud terrains, tons more to come

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Last edited by ykdave : 07-01-2008 at 01:15 PM.

[Dual K20s]

I get what you're saying, but what I'm getting at is that it takes 3200-3500 rpm before a few degrees becomes a problem, why would 180* be a problem at the same time? Gas or diesel its the same concept, gassers just run a lot more rpm so they need more spring pressure

And I agree, if you're going to bother doing all six cylinders, doing an extra valve per cylinder only adds like 10% of the time