Fuel Shutoff Replaced And Relay But Still Won"t Engage Without A Hand

HAMMER101 · 06-13-2008, 08:34 PM

REPLACED THE SHUT OFF AND RELAY BECAUSE THE LAST ONE BURNED UP AND THE NEW ONE ACTS THE SAME WAY WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU PULL IT UP.

HAM

Dual K20s · 06-13-2008, 09:42 PM

Have you checked the blue activation wire from the starter? That and the relay are the problem 95% of the time. The solenoid itself rarely goes out.

__________________
98 Dodge 2500 Motor: 12 valve, BD exhaust brake, 4" turbo back exhaust, BHAF, KDP tabbed, 4K GSK, O-ringed head, .020 over HG, Modified AFC, DDP Stage 3 injectors, DDP DVs, 17.5* timing, 16cm^2 ex. housing Drivetrain: 5-speed 4x4 w/ SB clutch (13" OFE 450Hp)

***WICKED DIESELS*** · 06-13-2008, 09:54 PM

There are 2 relays, one controls the solenoids pull up action, the other holds it up.

__________________
02 2500 Sport SB 3850, DRAG COMP, 2 TURBOS, BIG STIX, BIG PUMP, STUDS, SPRINGS, CAM, WATER INJ, ARB AIR LOCKERS, O RINGS, LIFT 35'S
05 2500 Sport 2 TURBOS, CAM, SPRINGS, STUDS, BIG STICKS, DRAGONSLAYER CP3, C5 MP8 AND PROGRAMMER, BILLET TRANNY, LIFT 37'S

Dual K20s · 06-13-2008, 10:25 PM

My little one doesn't connect to anything, never has since I bought it

I thought the hold was not wired through a relay?

illflem · 06-14-2008, 05:22 AM

There is no relay for the hold coil, it just goes though the key switch. The smaller relay next to the solenoid lift relay is for the fuel heater.

Sounds like you have a wire problem. Blue wire at the battery could be corroded under the insulation where you can't see it or the small brown wire at the starter is disconnected/dirty.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock

HAMMER101 · 06-15-2008, 08:57 AM

It was the Blue wire at the battery from when the shut off took a chit. thank you very much.

Ham

thescrapman · 06-16-2008, 09:34 PM

Im having a similar problem. I replaced the solenoid & relay but wont work unless I push the rod in manually. I have been looking for this blue wire that a couple people have told me about but I dont have a blue wire. Can someone please, please, please post a picture of this I havent been able to drive my truck for a week & its killing me....Thanx everybody

Joe G. · 06-17-2008, 08:47 AM

If you have a '98 I think there is a relay in the PDC instead of a blue wire. If not, then the center of the last three pictures in this article show the blue wire: Joe G's fuel system writeup

__________________
KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3.54,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,TST #5,370 injectors,DTT TC/VB, Cummins chrome kit.

thescrapman · 06-17-2008, 02:02 PM

Mine is a 96 and the link is great but what I noticed this morning is when the key is in the on position there is a liquid boiling around the positive terminal between the post & the clamp the two fuseable links that are connected to a brass eyelet got so hot that I almost got a 3rd degree burn from it. The arm in the coil will only lift if I push it in manually on the old & the new one. The arm will stay in till I turn the key off. I am certain I have a dead short but dont have a clue where to begin to look, I dont know a whole bunch about electrical trouble shooting.

Joe G. · 06-17-2008, 02:10 PM

If you had a dead short it would blow the fusable links. Have you removed the battery cables and all wires from the postitive post of the battery and cleaned them all? If you have not done that you need to do it. Make sure that all the connectors are bright clean and dry before putting them back on the battery connector bolt.

__________________
KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3.54,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,TST #5,370 injectors,DTT TC/VB, Cummins chrome kit.

thescrapman · 06-17-2008, 08:16 PM

I have found the problems. I do have a blue wire it was so dirty I couldnt tell it was blue until I scrapped it. I did the test like the link showed & it worked. the other problem is a bad cell in the passenger side battery, that it what was causing the driver side to boil & the lights to go out. Thats probably what shorted out the link. I have one more question, because Im horrible at electrical problems. Do I have to replace the fusable link with a new one & if so where should I get one? Or could I just splice a new wire on? I understand the risk of not using one is if I ever have a problem again I could fry that $92 relay I bought for nothing. Thank you everybody for all the help you have know idea how much it means to me. If any of you are ever in "The Burgh" & need something jsut hollar I will be there. Stephen

Motoracer597 · 07-18-2008, 06:39 PM

i am having the same problems as everyone else but none of my gauges work and the wait to start light never turns on. the truck will run for about 10 sec then die.Thats if i by hand lift the solenoid up. What is wrong please help diesel drags are on sunday!!

__________________
1995 2500 EXTREME PAINT JOB6" BULL HAULERS (STRAIGHT PIPED)#6 B.D. FUEL PLATE! FASS fuel system 4000 gov springs ddp 90hp injectors leveled with custom interior and sub box w/ nitrous bottle holder(for the future!!!)

06-13-2008, 08:34 PM	#1 (permalink)
HAMMER101 Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 3 HAMMER101's Truck Pics	Fuel Shutoff Replaced And Relay But Still Won"t Engage Without A Hand REPLACED THE SHUT OFF AND RELAY BECAUSE THE LAST ONE BURNED UP AND THE NEW ONE ACTS THE SAME WAY WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU PULL IT UP. HAM

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06-13-2008, 09:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
Dual K20s Tech Specialist Join Date: May 2007 Location: Ferndale CA/San Luis Obispo CA Posts: 1,303 Dual K20s's Truck Pics	Have you checked the blue activation wire from the starter? That and the relay are the problem 95% of the time. The solenoid itself rarely goes out. __________________ 98 Dodge 2500 Motor: 12 valve, BD exhaust brake, 4" turbo back exhaust, BHAF, KDP tabbed, 4K GSK, O-ringed head, .020 over HG, Modified AFC, DDP Stage 3 injectors, DDP DVs, 17.5* timing, 16cm^2 ex. housing Drivetrain: 5-speed 4x4 w/ SB clutch (13" OFE 450Hp)

06-13-2008, 09:54 PM	#3 (permalink)
*WICKED DIESELS* Pushing the limits Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: sw VA, nw NC, se KY, ne TN, sw W VA Posts: 1,903 WICKED DIESELS's Truck Pics	There are 2 relays, one controls the solenoids pull up action, the other holds it up. __________________ 02 2500 Sport SB 3850, DRAG COMP, 2 TURBOS, BIG STIX, BIG PUMP, STUDS, SPRINGS, CAM, WATER INJ, ARB AIR LOCKERS, O RINGS, LIFT 35'S 05 2500 Sport 2 TURBOS, CAM, SPRINGS, STUDS, BIG STICKS, DRAGONSLAYER CP3, C5 MP8 AND PROGRAMMER, BILLET TRANNY, LIFT 37'S

06-13-2008, 10:25 PM	#4 (permalink)
Dual K20s Tech Specialist Join Date: May 2007 Location: Ferndale CA/San Luis Obispo CA Posts: 1,303 Dual K20s's Truck Pics	My little one doesn't connect to anything, never has since I bought it I thought the hold was not wired through a relay?

06-14-2008, 05:22 AM	#5 (permalink)
illflem Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Montana Posts: 1,216 illflem's Truck Pics	There is no relay for the hold coil, it just goes though the key switch. The smaller relay next to the solenoid lift relay is for the fuel heater. Sounds like you have a wire problem. Blue wire at the battery could be corroded under the insulation where you can't see it or the small brown wire at the starter is disconnected/dirty. __________________ Bill '95 2500 4wd auto '95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler Both far from stock

06-15-2008, 08:57 AM	#6 (permalink)
HAMMER101 Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 3 HAMMER101's Truck Pics	It was the Blue wire at the battery from when the shut off took a chit. thank you very much. Ham

06-16-2008, 09:34 PM	#7 (permalink)
thescrapman Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 3 thescrapman's Truck Pics	Im having a similar problem. I replaced the solenoid & relay but wont work unless I push the rod in manually. I have been looking for this blue wire that a couple people have told me about but I dont have a blue wire. Can someone please, please, please post a picture of this I havent been able to drive my truck for a week & its killing me....Thanx everybody

06-17-2008, 08:47 AM	#8 (permalink)
Joe G. Diesel Freak Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Eureka, CA Posts: 809 Joe G.'s Truck Pics	If you have a '98 I think there is a relay in the PDC instead of a blue wire. If not, then the center of the last three pictures in this article show the blue wire: Joe G's fuel system writeup __________________ KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3.54,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,TST #5,370 injectors,DTT TC/VB, Cummins chrome kit.

06-17-2008, 02:02 PM	#9 (permalink)
thescrapman Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 3 thescrapman's Truck Pics	Mine is a 96 and the link is great but what I noticed this morning is when the key is in the on position there is a liquid boiling around the positive terminal between the post & the clamp the two fuseable links that are connected to a brass eyelet got so hot that I almost got a 3rd degree burn from it. The arm in the coil will only lift if I push it in manually on the old & the new one. The arm will stay in till I turn the key off. I am certain I have a dead short but dont have a clue where to begin to look, I dont know a whole bunch about electrical trouble shooting.

06-17-2008, 02:10 PM	#10 (permalink)
Joe G. Diesel Freak Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Eureka, CA Posts: 809 Joe G.'s Truck Pics	If you had a dead short it would blow the fusable links. Have you removed the battery cables and all wires from the postitive post of the battery and cleaned them all? If you have not done that you need to do it. Make sure that all the connectors are bright clean and dry before putting them back on the battery connector bolt. __________________ KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3.54,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,TST #5,370 injectors,DTT TC/VB, Cummins chrome kit.

06-17-2008, 08:16 PM	#11 (permalink)
thescrapman Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 3 thescrapman's Truck Pics	I have found the problems. I do have a blue wire it was so dirty I couldnt tell it was blue until I scrapped it. I did the test like the link showed & it worked. the other problem is a bad cell in the passenger side battery, that it what was causing the driver side to boil & the lights to go out. Thats probably what shorted out the link. I have one more question, because Im horrible at electrical problems. Do I have to replace the fusable link with a new one & if so where should I get one? Or could I just splice a new wire on? I understand the risk of not using one is if I ever have a problem again I could fry that $92 relay I bought for nothing. Thank you everybody for all the help you have know idea how much it means to me. If any of you are ever in "The Burgh" & need something jsut hollar I will be there. Stephen

07-18-2008, 06:39 PM	#12 (permalink)
Motoracer597 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Parker Posts: 121 Motoracer597's Truck Pics	i am having the same problems as everyone else but none of my gauges work and the wait to start light never turns on. the truck will run for about 10 sec then die.Thats if i by hand lift the solenoid up. What is wrong please help diesel drags are on sunday!! __________________ 1995 2500 EXTREME PAINT JOB6" BULL HAULERS (STRAIGHT PIPED)#6 B.D. FUEL PLATE! FASS fuel system 4000 gov springs ddp 90hp injectors leveled with custom interior and sub box w/ nitrous bottle holder(for the future!!!)