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Old 05-04-2008, 04:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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bleeding air after fuel filter change question

95 dodge ram, 2500, 5.9L cummins.

would not start, changed fuel filter, starts, but starts hard. takes about 10 tries.
starts on first try when warm.

i have the 1995 service manual and it says it could be air in the fuel lines because of the filter change( yes, i did fill the filter with fuel).i opened the bleed bolt, pumped the primer, saw fuel, did not hear air or see bubbles. still hard starting.

the manual says it will bleed out small amounts of air on its own, so i drove it for 20 minutes, and have let it idle for an hour, still not fixed.

the manual also shows how to bleed at the fuel injection pump and the high pressure fuel lines, is this necessary?
and how do you know if you got all the air out when bleeding at the bleed bolt? do you see bubbles in the fuel, or hear air?

i have worked on gas engines, this is my first diesel.
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You bleed until it is constant fuel and no bubbles. It wouldn't hurt to bleed the injector lines.
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Like the manual says the system is self bleeding so if after 30min of driving it still has the same symptoms, look elsewere for the problem. You could have a leaky fuel line letting air into the system, or more likely you have a fuel pressure deficit. I suspect the overlflow valve or the fuel heater is letting air into the fuel.
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Old 05-05-2008, 01:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks "Austin The DieselTech."

"Dual K20s",

i dont want to sound like i am arguing with you, just want to understand this.

why would a overflow valve or the fuel heater cause it to start hard, but not cause it to run poorly? i mean, air is air, why does the air disappear after the truck starts and only appear when the truck is cold?

also, i dont see a "test for air leak" or a repair procedure in the manual for the overflow valve or the fuel heater, just removal instructions.
is there a way to test these? or should i just replace them?
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Old 05-05-2008, 03:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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did i just answer my own question?

just went out to start it, tried the primer, no resistance. pumped it 30 times, still no resistance. then it started in 3 tries instead of 10. does that mean when it shuts off the fuel drains, the air gets sucked in, and now it needs to be primed before it will start ? priming chases most of the air out?
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Old 05-05-2008, 05:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The fuel heater burns up and leaks, believe it or not, in the electrical connection. Look here for why that happens and how to remove it: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...tml#post589200
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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im changing mine right now, wheres the primer?!
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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On the side of the engine below the filter. There is a black button you have to push.
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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the big black spingy thing? if so is it supposed to be hard to push?
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
does that mean when it shuts off the fuel drains, the air gets sucked in, and now it needs to be primed before it will start ? priming chases most of the air out?
You got it exactly.

Quote:
the big black spingy thing? if so is it supposed to be hard to push?
Think the spingy thing you found is probably the shutdown solenoid boot. It should be hard to push.
The primer button is on the side of the lift pump in this link> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/f...ocations-l.gif
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Last edited by illflem; 10-01-2008 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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nevermind haha finished....
thanks though =]
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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oh well whatever i was pushing made fuel bleed out :thumbsup
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