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I am looking at some 12v's and most that I am finding a kind of high millage. I plan on daily driving this thing for a while but I will more then likely end up wanting more power.
How many miles would you buy a 12v with, 200,000, 300,000, 400,000, more? I understand it all depends on how the truck was driven and how it was taken care of but, what is the max you would consider? Thanks!
I wouldnt even hesitate at 200, and depending on price i would be confident in 300,000... May just need some tlc
98 RAM2500 AUTO 4X4 12 VALVE!!!!!BHAF, FUEL PLATE AND AFC FORWARD, HOME GROUND 100, s300/s400 TWINS, A-METER BOOST PYRO AND TRANS, 5" INTO 6" MITRE CUT STACK, SILENCE RING GONE ATS CONVERTER AND BUILT TRANS KDP tabbed-timing 16 deg-3GSK, stage 2 injectors
Thats good! What are the key problem areas I need to look for with a 12v? Also, should I hold out for a 4wd or go ahead and pick up a 2wd because they are so much cheaper.
The 4x4vs2x4 is up to you and where you live, and what you plan on doing w/ the truck.
Key problem areas would be KDP (Killer Dowl pin) a dowl that is located beneath the timing cover and is known to back out and spit a hole in the timing cover. Check and make sure transmission is fully functional, and transfer. Brakes, ect, normal stuff.
__________________ 1995 Dodge 3500; 217,XXX miles, AFC Washer Mod, AFC tweaked/tuned, 191s, 90Horse injectors, Griddle kit, Max Spool 2.5 Cam, Head O-ringed, 12MM Studs, 24V oil pump, 64/71/14 turbo on the way
definately 4x4 if you live where it snows
check the front end track bar, ball joints, tie rods, make sure if its an auto to make sure it shifts fine, and the killer dowel pin. Thats all the big things i think and good luck finding a truck
2005 black crew cab short bed auto 4x4.
Second the front end check. The dodge 2WD front end is notoriously weak for the amount of weight over the suspension. The solid front axle 4WD is better, but still, check it out. Sometimes the 98 12V came out with the Code 53 block (brazil made); mine has a 53, but I'm pretty sure only the 24Vs are known to crack. They tend to let go on the passenger side, right below the head, under the #3 and 4 cylinders. However, my 98 has 241000 mi and no crack yet. Aside from the KDP, they say you don't have to put a wrench on the 12V 'til 350000 mi.
1998 Dodge 2500 12V 2WD. 5 spd, South Bend Con. O. #10 plate, 4" turbo-back exhaust, K&N cold-air intake. 20.5 deg timing. Freshly overhauled bottom. 241000 mi and rolling the coal.
I wouldnt worry about the cummins, I would worry about the rest of the truck. It depends on how it was taken care of. I have seen some perfect condition older dodge diesel trucks with 300,000+ miles that I would buy, then i have seen some with 20,000 miles and 100,000 miles that I would never ever consider.
2012 2500 CTD HO, Dual coolers, snow plow/cold weather prep, Line x, PPE 5inch tip, Bak Flip F1, Mopar fender flares, Husky mud flaps, Weather tech mats, Valvoline PBE/Donaldson filter, vision x light bar, Mag Hytec rear diff cover, Thuren overland suspension.
There is no way that you will be able to check the KDP without removing the front cover, Check for excessive blowby, and check the front end. A front end rebuild is in the $400 plus range. Check for excessive play in steering. 200,000 is break in mileage for the CTD engine. Take care of it and it will last and last and ----
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