fuel return line repair - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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fuel return line repair

discovered i have a fuel leak in my return line. i can see it spewing when its running. my question is what is the best way to get at the thing to replace it? any help would be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by vanilla gorilla1 View Post
discovered i have a fuel leak in my return line. i can see it spewing when its running. my question is what is the best way to get at the thing to replace it? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scroll down the forum index to the tech articles for your year truck. There is an article there for the problem along with a TON of other great articles contributed by the members and vendors over the years.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 10:50 AM
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It takes about 2' of 5/16" diesel rated hose and two new hose clamps.
Remove the fuel filter for easier access, good time to replace the filter.
The entire process has to be done by feel, I find it easier to cut the old hose clamps off rather than unscrew them.
It's tight getting to the rear end of the hose, you will get scars.

Return line in red

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by illflem View Post
It takes about 2' of 5/16" diesel rated hose and two new hose clamps.
Remove the fuel filter for easier access, good time to replace the filter.
The entire process has to be done by feel, I find it easier to cut the old hose clamps off rather than unscrew them.
It's tight getting to the rear end of the hose, you will get scars.

Return line in red
Dead on the money its tight . Took me about 2 hours , if you chase the return line back to the drivers side/top of the bell housing youll see a better route once you see the start/stop point

95 4x4 2500 5 speed straight pipe 255-85-16 Toyo M/T 450,000 miles .

Last edited by 21z05578; 07-24-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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turns out the best way for me to do it was to jack it up, remove the left front tire, remove fuel filter. i did that and the line was pretty easy to get at. thank you for the advice etc again.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 12:16 PM
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Vanilla, you must have stretchable arms like Gumby. I tried pulling the LF - couldn't reach anything from the fenderwell area. I already had the starter out for replacement, so that (and removing the fuel filter) made it slightly easier.

I deceided to do both lines, and it has been one of the more aggravating tasks I've encountered. Took forever to remove the return-line clamp under the intake box. Had to take my Dremel and a cutting disk to the Oetiker clamp on one end of supply line. The bleep(s) that came up with these fuel line routings should be bludgeoned to death with a P7100 pump.

Note: If you're going to do this, I strongly recommend going beyond J30R7 hose. Pumps in the San Antonio area are starting to show biodiesel-blend notices, and 30R7 hose is not biodiesel-rated so I wanted to be current/ahead and put on biodisel-compatible hose. If you can find it, go at least to J30R9. I couldn't find 30R9 at the chain stores in the SA area, but Car Quest stores do have J30R14 (barricade/barrier style).

21Z - what's the better route you mentioned?

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by vanilla gorilla1 View Post
turns out the best way for me to do it was to jack it up, remove the left front tire, remove fuel filter. i did that and the line was pretty easy to get at. thank you for the advice etc again.
When fixing my fuel lines I did this method. It was made easier because I don't have a fender skirt installed on that side.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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well i am very tall and have long arms. but really i think by removing the tire, cranking the wheel all the way left, taking off the plastic fenderwell cover thingy, i was able to reach up in there with relative ease. i think even someone of average height would be able to accomplish that pretty easy. the most aggravating thing ended up being that i had a hard time getting the fenderwell put back together.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 01:21 AM
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...taking off the plastic fenderwell cover thingy...the most aggravating thing ended up being that i had a hard time getting the fenderwell put back together.
The plastic fender liner is the key - I didn't want to go through all that on top of dealing with the hoses. If I ever do this again, maybe I'll cut out a section of the plastic fender liner and replace it with an oversize piece of sheetmetal that I can hold in by a few screws.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 02:41 AM
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Funny thing is I changed my fuel filter a couple weeks ago and afterward I thought I would take a look at everything from underneath. After surveying how various things are routed I remember saying to myself...I sure hope I don't have to replace those 2 rubber hose pieces. I was trying to figure how to get at them from above (with the new filter installed) and from below and came up with no answers. Man, the fuel routing on our 91 1st gen VE pump is so much more logical. I am not sure what is the better way to go, fighting the R&R of the plastic fender liner or just go at them from above after removing the fuel filter?

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2015, 10:53 AM
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I'm replacing the return line on a 98 12v. I found it 100x easier just to remove the entire fuel filter housing and expose the line. Took me 3 minutes to remove the housing and made my day a little easier
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2015, 12:06 AM
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After fighting with mine, I too removed the wheel, inner fenderliner and filter housing. No one has mentioned it but one of the male hose fittings was 3/8ths while the rest were 5/16ths. The marine diesel hose was so damn stiff, I could not get the 5/16ths hose over the 3/8ths male barb fitting. Ended up using a brass double barb adapter with a short piece of 3/8ths hose.

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