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94-98 PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING
I am going to be tacklin the replacement of my radiator, water pump, and resealing the front cover as the crank seal is leaking. Just wondering for those who have done this job what tools are needed? All my tools are at work so Im trying to come up with a list of tools I need to bring home for the weekend. I know a lot of the bolts are 10mm. But if you guys know of the other tools needed off the top of your head that would be great, otherwise Ill just look at it and bring home what I think. Also any tips and pointers to make the job go as hassle free as possible.
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Daily Driver: 2004 Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Long Bed Automatic 5.9l CTD 23k miles and counting, 4" MBRP Turbo Back exhaust
That is the perfect time to fix your KDP. You will be doing almost all of the work anyway. I do not know the tools you need here.
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1997 3500 club cab Automatic 3.54 gears towing and camper package. Still stock with 116k on it so far. 4" dynomax stainless exhaust, 4kgsk, and pacbrake exhaust brake waiting for installation. Still need ideas for improvements for hauling 15k fifth wheel.
I believe the fan on the water pump is 36mm, and an adjustable wrench will not fit down there. I had to buy one of those special wrenches that are slim for removing the fan to get it off.
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ΣΧ 97 2500 auto 2WD, recently rebuilt transmission (just a low stall torque converter and some valve work), K&N intake and full 4" turbo back exhaust, 16.5* timing, 60lb valve springs, (working on the rest...)
I believe the fan on the water pump is 36mm, and an adjustable wrench will not fit down there. I had to buy one of those special wrenches that are slim for removing the fan to get it off.
Air chisel is about the easiest and most pain free, and I agree perfect KDP tabbing time. Although I can't help with bolt sizes, 10,13,15 for sure baring tool for holding the crank if you have one, can't remember the crank bolt size at this point in time, pretty much just need a basic tool kit though
Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
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1998 R2500~8"taller,37"tires,S&B intake,Studs,Boost elbow,Built trans,afc tuning,PO installed injectors..?
Currently working to fix PO mistakes then...mod time
Now would be the best time for the kdp fix your already in the case and shouldn't take more the half hour extra time if you take all the backing plate bolts out and put some loc tite on each bolt the clutch fan nut is a left hand thread I believe
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2001 ecsb 4x4 auto trans airdog 100, blue chip vp44, 100hp injectors, edge comp box, 62mm turbo, BHAF, ARP head studs, autometer gauges, 4" to 5'' exhaust 17" H2 wheels
71 f250 crew cab 4x4 cummins swap in progress
Last edited by crewcabstripper; 03-26-2012 at 02:04 PM.
Don't I need to remove the fan to get to the water pump
No, just untension the belt from the pump and it comes right off.
It will probably be the easiest water pump you've ever replaced.
Doesn't even have a gasket, just an o-ring.
__________________ Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Stock for one day
Don't I need to remove the fan to get to the water pump
Nope. Take the belt off and unbolt the water pump. Two bolts. Throw the new one on, belt yoir done. The water pump is to the left of the fan pulley with the solid smooth pulley on it..
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96' 2500 12 valve 4x4
Mods: 2" leveling kit, bags, Fox shocks, BD guages, #100 fuel plate, AFC mods, 3 GSK, 60 lb valve springs, boost elbow, BHAF, 4" exhuast, 475 hp Southbend, Pac-Brake
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97 2500 auto 2WD, recently rebuilt transmission (just a low stall torque converter and some valve work), K&N intake and full 4" turbo back exhaust, 16.5* timing, 60lb valve springs, (working on the rest...)
doing cummins swap
Linear Mode
