Fuel line replacement? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2011, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel line replacement?

I noticed the other day with the truck running and the hood open that the rubber fuel line that goes down between the injector pump and the block had a split in it that was pulsating with the engine. I'm taking the box off in the next week or two and was thinking of replacing all of the fuel lines at the same time. I was just hoping someone might be able to tell me if I actually needed parts for any of them or are they just rubber fuel lines? Anything else to look at while I'm at it? Many thanks, Sam


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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2011, 09:55 PM
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yes replace all of the lines including the steel lines that are attached to the inside of the frame with marine grade flexible fuel line
i use AN fittings size -6 I used an inline filter at the frame lower than the tank with a water seperator snake that line up to yur filter and then replace your return line the same way making sure you keep them well attached so they dont rub leave slack in the pressure and return lines to compensat for engine movement and for twist on supply side .

a very good thing to do.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 10:55 AM
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I'd also suggest replacing your brake line that runs to the rear while your at it. Had one blow on my grandfathers truck and it was a pain to lower the tank and everything else to fix it.

Daily Driver: 2004 Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Long Bed Automatic 5.9l CTD 23k miles and counting, 4" MBRP Turbo Back exhaust 1995 ram 2500 4x4 auto trans
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 11:49 AM
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Itís common practice to replace the factory hard lines with hose. Unfortunately itís not the right way to go about it. There is no reason to replace the hard lines with hose; there is no reason to replace the hard-lines at all unless they are corroded or damaged. If they are I would replace them with another hard line, they can be made easily and the hard line tubing is way less $ than hose however you will need the tools to do it. Running hose all the way to and from the tank is an easy way for a quick fix but a sloppy way to go and expensive, thatís a lot of hose! If your hard lines are good just replace the hose connections, use good hose and good clamps don't over tighten them like most guys do. (If using hose clamps for this use the correct size, get good clamps and use two per connection if you wish) Replace all the hose ends and be clean and neat and you will be good for another fifteen years or so. Good luck man!

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petie6464 View Post
there is no reason to replace the hard-lines at all unless they are corroded or damaged.
On my '97, my lines were corroded between the fuel tank and frame, but I only replaced that short corroded section with hose and kept the rest of the steel line. But, I found when I had to replace the rear brake line on my '99, someone had already replaced the steel fuel lines with new ones. (Why they didn't replace the brake line at the same time is beyond me. Just stupid. Just glad I got the truck and trailer stopped, when it went.

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petie6464 View Post
It’s common practice to replace the factory hard lines with hose. Unfortunately it’s not the right way to go about it. There is no reason to replace the hard lines with hose; there is no reason to replace the hard-lines at all unless they are corroded or damaged. If they are I would replace them with another hard line, they can be made easily and the hard line tubing is way less $ than hose however you will need the tools to do it. Running hose all the way to and from the tank is an easy way for a quick fix but a sloppy way to go and expensive, that’s a lot of hose! If your hard lines are good just replace the hose connections, use good hose and good clamps don't over tighten them like most guys do. (If using hose clamps for this use the correct size, get good clamps and use two per connection if you wish) Replace all the hose ends and be clean and neat and you will be good for another fifteen years or so. Good luck man!
I disagree that hose is a "sloppy" or "not the right way" to replace fuel lines. Both are valid and long term. Yours is a great suggestion except discrediting replacing the entire length with appropriate diesel rated fuel line. Too many threads in this forum regarding hose (including the old timers) to discredit it.
My 2 cents...

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Loud Pedal View Post
I disagree that hose is a "sloppy" or "not the right way" to replace fuel lines. Both are valid and long term. Yours is a great suggestion except discrediting replacing the entire length with appropriate diesel rated fuel line. Too many threads in this forum regarding hose (including the old timers) to discredit it.
My 2 cents...
There has to be a good reason why the NHRA doesn't allow more than 24" of rubber hose in a vehicle to be allowed on a track. I'd redo the steel lines if they're that bad.

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 06:35 PM
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There has to be a good reason why the NHRA doesn't allow more than 24" of rubber hose in a vehicle to be allowed on a track. I'd redo the steel lines if they're that bad.
I'm sure they have very valid reasons for that rule. I don't have a rule book but I'm pretty there are NO rubber hoses on a funny car (I could be wrong). Is this a discussion about drag racing a diesel truck? If so, I'm way out of my league. If it's about a daily driver off the track, I believe either are a safe valid long term option. Searching this forum should validate either option. For me, I chose the hose works because I don't have the tubing bender and flaring tools. Hose is also much faster and not too expensive if you watch for a sale. It also saved me from trying to evaluate the integrity of the tubing. My point is there are two options for appropriate replacement. It appears some may disagree and that's fine, but the NHRA rulebook??

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-26-2011, 10:04 AM
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Obviously it's for safety reasons. Your chances of getting in a wreck on the street are probably a 1000 times greater than on a track. If rubber is so easy to use, how come the oem's aren't using it? It's your life and truck, do what you want.

You gonna use duck tape to hold that rubber line to frame?

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-26-2011, 12:37 PM
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My point was that there are two long term valid solutions. All things being equal, tubing would be less expensive solution. I'm not sure about longevity (though I think part of that answer would depend on winter conditions ((salt). Regarding OEM, cost is always one of their major considerations.
those are my thoughts and I have no desire to enter into a high school "you say this, I say that thread. There are too many already....

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-26-2011, 08:57 PM
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Yeah I guess. I did them with Stainless Steel tubing. As far as longevity I figured the galvanized steel factory pieces lasted thirteen years the SS ones will rest the remainder of the trucks life. The chances of hose lasing that long not so good. Running all hose from one end to the other of the truck is a hack job at best.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 12:23 PM
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I agree with others who says is to keep the hardlines. I won't run hose from end to end. That's just hack and asking for troubles. To prevent any line corrosions, I'd just find a way to mount it a little further from the frame so less dirty can sits on top of them.

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