Thank you for the response!
The 1-2 and 2-3 shifts seemed perfect to me before the service - although I have no dodge to compare to. I certainly had never noticed a torque loss then jolt when shifting before. I drive pretty easy, so I generally didn't "feel" the shifts much.
I will try adjusting the front band. The spec I used before trip was (8nm) front back 1 7/8 turns, rear 3turns (fritz ram tech page)
I have since found the service manual to give the same as 46re (only for 1996): font 2 7/8 turns rear 2 turns. This is what I last used, I probably have the front closer to 3 turns now. What would you suggest as a starting point? I suspect you could really tell me were you to drive it - but I have no good sense for what a "little' loose would be - perhaps 1/4 turn?
There was nothing to speak of on the magnet - where would aluminum usually come from in one of these transmissions?
If the band is too tight, would it shift any earlier?
I really appreciate the article - it would seem that the gov solenoid could cause the early shifts - but not the jolt.
By the way, I now also feel the downshift to 1st just as I almost stop. It comes as a small kick in the pants a couple of feet before a full stop. Also a new phenomenon.
thank you again
I'll try to answer your questions in the order they were asked:
The fritz adjustment specs you referred to are right (1-7/8 and 3). When I rebuild a 47RH or 47RE transmission, I set the front band at 2 turns and the rear at 3 turns. The rear band needs that extra looseness as it is a double wrap band (42RH/RE has a double wrap rear band and a 46RH/RE has a single wrap rear band, so you should now better understand the difference in adjustment specs). If the band adjustment is too tight, it could drag on the drum creating excessive heat and wear. Additionally, a overly tight band could grab sooner and release later. Won't affect shift timing, but a huge affect on shift quality since its events are measured in milliseconds.
When I said a "little loose", I am talking about 1/4 turn or so. Keep in mind that that bands can wear over time, although they should wear at a slow rate.
Aluminum could come from any of the aluminum parts in the transmission. Hows that for an answer???
The only somewhat normal aluminum wear area I can think of off the top of my head is the overdrive piston retainer / rear support. That part really takes a beating if the truck is towed on the wheels for too long of a distance or too fast without the engine running (no lubrication). Aluminum could come from several other areas, but those would be more abnormal failure modes. One needs to see the particles to help determine where they are from - fine dust, thread chips, larger chunks - all are different indicators as well as their shape and surface finish.
Band(s) that is too tight would not really cause a change in shift timing, but more of a change in shift quality. The rear band is only applied while in manual low and reverse, so if it were too tight, it would be just dragging and trying to slow parts down. The front band is applied for second gear only. If it were too tight, it would be dragging in first gear creating heat. When the shift to second happens, there is no overlap (trans actually in more than one 'gear' for an instant) so it will shift into second probably fine but maybe a bit faster (not sooner, but faster). It is the shift from second to third that would suffer the most with shift quality since there IS overlap with that shift.
As I wrote in that article, shift timing is controlled by the balance between governor pressure, TV pressure (affected by the TV cable adjustment), and the force from the springs acting on the shift spools. With your 47RE transmission, there are different governor pressure 'maps' for different temperatures and transfer case modes (just like different air/fuel ratio maps for a fuel injected gas engine at different temperatures). That adds another whole degree of complications with the RE transmisisons. Just another reason why a mechanical guy like me prefers the mechanical 12V engines and RH transmissions. Anyways, there is a temperature sensor incorporated into the pressure transducer that provides a signal to the PCM so the PCM can decide which map of governor pressure vs MPH to use.
Some other recommendations:
Trans fluid selection and shift quality is more of an issue with the electronically controlled transmissions. I am fine with using good 'ol Dexron in my 727's and 47RH's, but follow the recommendations EXACTLY with a RE transmission. The friction coefficient has to be right on the money with an electronically controlled trans or shift quality will suffer.
My opinion of the Lube Gard products is that I think they do make a good product - but I still am not convinced any additive will ever fix a transmission in need of overhaul.
When adjusting the front band in the vehicle, I put a mark (permanent marker or paint pen) on one of the adjustment screw flats to help keep track of the number of turns. With the restricted access, it is easier to make an adjustment mistake. I use a small 5/16" combination wrench typically.
The TV pressure affects shift timing and will affect shift quality as well since it controls line pressure too. Make sure your TV cable is adjusted properly, moves freely without binding or sticking, and that the return spring is attached at the transmission end. If the TV lever on the trans were at a mid-throttle position, you would get later & harsher light upshifts and sooner and harsher downshifts at light throttle. The TV lever must move in a correct relation to the throttle position. It is possible something there (like the spring) got changed while adjusting the front band.