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pinning the pump (last question guys!...I hope)

3K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  thecheese429 
#1 ·
I pin the pump for removal. When I go to reinstall do I find TDC on the engine and then keep the pump in it's pinned position? Is that factory timing?

Sorry for asking similar questions over and over. I'm just so close to completion. 2.5 weeks is far too long to be without my truck...have mercy.
 
#2 ·
so I followed ykdave's advice to timing
Heres a very 'simple' way to set your timing back to stock (or whatever the pump has been set at if it has been rebuilt and the pump timing altered)

First off, bar the engine over to #1 TDC where you will be able to lock in the pump gear timing pin (see pic below). the timing pin is located just below the injection pump.

Now, if you are lucky and the timing as not slipped you will be able to pop the plug off of the side of the pump and pull out its 'timing plug', on one end it just has a little metal 'tit' that faces inwards towards the pump for normal operation and on the other end it has a plastic part with a notch cut into it that engages a timing arm inside the pump.

When you pull the plug out of the hole you should be able to see the arm in there and should be able to flip the timing plug over and have it fully insert into the hole and the notch line up on the timing arm. If you cannot see the arm your timing is way out to lunch, if you can see the arm but the timing plug wont go in properly (very close but wont go), the timing has slipped a tad. at that point its your call if you want to reset it or not. (IIRC appx 1mm of movement on the arm = 1.5* timing)

This is the location of the pumps timing plug (basically between the pump and gov housing) and its orientation for normal operation.

At this point if you decide to reset the timing, MAKE SURE THE TIMING PIN ON THE GEARTRAIN IS DISENGAGED!

Then while watching through the hole in the side of the pump, bar the engine over till the arm is centred and you can engage the timing plug fully.

Now, for the sake of not breaking that plastic plug accidentally, remove it. Then procede to remove the pump drive gear bolt (its tighter than a mofo!) and use a puller to remove the gear. you may want to just quicky double check the timing on the pump didnt accidentally move before pulling the gear.

The puller required is a '2 bolt', their are specialty ones sold (i have one), but have been told any puller will do.

Now with the gear loosened from the shaft, get in there with some brake clean or some type of cleaner that LEAVES NO RESIDUE!, this is very important, any bit of gunk or oil on the shaft WILL cause the timing to slip.

Then, bar the engine over till the timing pin will engage in the gear. Now hand tighten the nut onto the pump shaft, disengage both timing pins, and while holding the engine from spinning (hopefully using the proper barring tool!) you can tighten the pump shaft bolt to 145ft/lb

Now, in theory, if you engage the timing pin on the geartrain and pull the plug out of the pump you will be able to see the arm in there and engage that timing plug. As long as nothing moved while you were doing this...

I think that about covers it, i know this topic pops up every once in a while so i hope this helps some of you!

Last but not least.... DO NOT FOGET TO DISENGAGE BOTH TIMING PINS BEFORE MOVING THE ENGINE, YOU WILL BREAK THEM!!!!
And I used pacbrakes method for finding TDC
Place the 7/8" shallow socket on the alternator nut (a few alternators take a 15/16” shallow), with the 1/2"
drive ratchet in the reverse direction. Insert it into the 7/8" socket to rotate the engine. The engine
will easily rotate in a backwards direction only. Rotate the engine, in a backwards direction, carefully
watching the rocker arms and valve motion. You are looking for #1 intake valve to be on its way up
(valve closing). Once the # 1 intake valve is closed the engine is very close to TDC, watch the #1
exhaust valve. As soon as the exhaust valve starts to move down (exhaust valve opening) the slightest
bit STOP, that means this cylinder is at TDC and its pair #6 is also at TDC. This can checked by feeling
the rockers on the other cylinder (#6) they should both be loose.
When I first assembled my truck it ran (horribly because I guess timing was off). Now I have everything done "correctly" and it cranks and I might get a sputter or two but no life. 2.5 weeks out in the dark and cold. I'd be tempted to call it quits if I had another option.

Help me out guys. Did I do everything right? What else should I be checking?
 
#3 ·
Why don't you just pin time the pump, then bust the gear loose, and pin time the engine? Why mess with the drop valve method? If pinning doesn't work, then do the drop valve.
 
#5 ·
I pinned the pump. Broke the gear loose. took the engine to TDC and re-attached the gear. I can not afford the tools for the the drop valve method but found a shop that can do it for me once I get it running. I'm at a loss gentleman...
 
#6 ·
You pin timed the pump and then the engine after busting the gear loose. But after it was done, did you double check the pins? When you bust the gear, the pump will oft move my friend.
 
#8 ·
I triple checked at this point and marked the IP shaft so I knew where it was supposed to be.

ykdave, I guess I'm confused, aren't I supposed to pop of an injector and measure movement for the drop valve method?
 
#9 ·
I have a book about servicing semi truck engines (the diesel bug has bitten me, what can I say) and it outlined a method to check the timing that I don't think I have read here before.

It says to....
1. Remove an injector line and delivery valve
2. Reinstall the delivery valve holder (minus delivery valve)
3. Put some kind of tube from the top of the delivery valve holder (where the line used to be)
4. Start pumping the primer on the lift pump
5. Rotate the engine with a barring tool
6. The fuel will flow through the pump, through the fill ports, through the cylinder, and straight up to and through the tube
7. Once the fuel stops flowing, the piston has come up and blocked off the fill ports, signifying the start of the injection

That's a way to check it, not sure if that is the drop valve or what. I guess you would need some way to check the position of the cylinder BTDC
 
#12 · (Edited)
that is called spill port timing Another decent method for timing the pump, but still doesnt do you any good for locating TDC on the engine!

russian, that is not the proper drop valve method. that is intended to get the engine 'close' to TDC so you dont drop a valve while changing springs.

Drop valve timing requires you to screw down one of the #1 rocker adjusters a few turns, SLOWLY bar the engine over until the piston touches the valve. Dont get too carried away, if you smack it too hard you can bend a valve or pushrod LOL

Now, make a reference mark on the gearcase and balancer. now rotate the engine backwards until the piston hits the valve again. now make another mark on the balancer in line with your original mark on the gearcase.

Then, back off the valve adjuster, take a look at your 2 marks on the balancer. spin the engine over until your mark on the gearcase is dead center between the 2 marks on the balancer. presto, you have TDC

(Dont forget the re-lash the valve!)
 
#10 · (Edited)
thecheese, you are a champ for knowing that. Not putting your way down (of most of the methods I've read it seems simple and efficient), but is the pacbrake method not sufficient for what I need?
 
#11 ·
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