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Different Fuel Shutoff issue

1K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  DieselPwrRam 
#1 ·
Hi all, great forums, learning a bunch daily.

Now, just bought a 95, first diesel truck. Knew fuel shutoff valve would not activate on start. Playing with it, I found that if I manually move the shaft around 1/4 to 3/8 upward into selenoid, it will work correctly. Checked adjustment measurement and also noted that when I move the shutoff lever down manually it stops then travels a little more with resistance.

Hate to spend big bucks, wonder if the shutoff lever has slipped at pivot point and needs adjustment. Can't find any specifics on how it is installed or adjusted.

Thanks a bunch for all your posts, great information.

Jon
 
#2 ·
whats the actual problem? it wont pick up when you engage the starter?

check to make sure the arm is tight on the shaft that comes out of the pump, also there is a woodruf key in there, dont loose its because its very small


also there is a relay for the shut off solenoid, if that relay is bad your truck will not start, it will crank and crank and crank, but the arm will never pickup unless you manully pick it up
 
#3 ·
Also, check the blue fusible link that comes off the positive side of the driver's side battery. If corroded on terminal or inside of the wire, the solenoid won't pull up, but will stay up when pulled manually.
 
#4 ·
Electrical power is not the problem. The issue is that the pulling up stage of the selenoid pulling up doesn't happen, UNLESS you move the rod assembly up into the selenoid about a 1/4 inch or so. With it in the shutoff position, it's like the large rod of the actuator isn't quite far enough into the selenoid for the magnet to take hold. If I pull up slightly on it, and engage starter, it grabs and pulls it all the way up and the hold magnet holds it. Maybe the magnet is weak. I was hoping it was a rigging issue.

Jon
 
#5 ·
I had the same problem in the past. Sometimes would not start, sometimes would not shut off. Ended up being dry/dirty/sticking linkage. Cleaned it and lubed it up and no problems since. Just give it a shot of spray lube at every oil change after that. No more problems since. Hope this helps..........brimc.
 
#6 ·
Most likely the solenoid just needs to be removed and the innards cleaned well.
Keep it energized up when removing so parts don't fly.
Replace the boot if torn.

Also if someone messed with the plate without loosening the lower solenoid bracket bolt they could have bent the bracket causing it to bind.
 
#7 ·
Think I will try something. I had it apart before posting. It was quite clean for the age, but cleaned and lubed. I am beginning to think that the rubber boot is stretched out to the point that the "piston" is beyond grasp of the magnet. I'll try a new boot. If I move the "piston" only a 1/4 inch into the selenoid, it will grab and go.

Thanks again for your time guys.

Jon
 
#9 ·
mine did the EXACT same thing when i first got it, after testing for powers and grounds (which tested good) i replaced the shutoff solenoid thinking the magnet was getting weak, didn't help, turns out the relay was bad, when i took apart the relay, there are two contacts that connect power to the solenoid, one contact was corroded/pitted so when i checked for power at the solenoid i had 12v, but it only had half the amps required to pull the solenoid. worked sometimes, sometimes not. hope that helps. and solenoids are only like 15 bux from larry b
 
#12 ·
Check out the Tech. section of the forum. There is an option to the electrical fuel solenoid. Go with a manual cable setup. This will bypass the whole electrical issue with the OEM system. Myself I went with the manual cable with the option to go OEM. In any case also keep in mind the starter contacts, Solenoid, relay and fuse link are all related. If any go bad the solenoid will not lift. The worse case the fuel solenoid and harness catches fire, as mine did. Also check into in adding a diode to the starter trigger wire to the relay to prevent that.
 
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