my trucks been sitting in my driveway under 2 feet of snow for about week now, i shut it off so that i could top off my power steering fluid and it wouldnt start, i tried hooking a charger to each battery and it would turn over 3 times and die, so i cleaned terminals and replaced a couple and checked all ground connections that i could find. this allowed it to turn over a lot better for minute, but now when you try to start it the starter doesnt engage, or click or anything, i replaced the relay (because its simple and quick) and still nothing, i tried tapping on the starter while the wife turned the key (an old trick from my GM days) and still nothing. can somebody please help before i burn this prick to the ground!
Sounds to me like the starter contacts are roached, I used the heavy duty ones from Geno's Garage. The job wasn't too involved but first, I'd use a multimeter to check that the starter is getting power. If you're getting power to the starter than I'd say contacts but, if you're not getting power at the starter, I'd work my way back up-stream until I found the problem. Sounds like you've checked grounds and terminals so you're eliminating possibilities, my starter was slow (like batteries were going bad) eventhough the batteries were new. Hope this helps, Dave.
thanks for the reply, think ill try that, maybe you or somebody can answer this question, ive read about jumping the relay to make it start? how do i do this so i can atleast get it in the garage. (laying in the snow sucks) haha
Been there/done that (as far as working in the snow). I'm not sure what to suggest as far as jumping the solenoid. I'd use a screw driver across the solenoid if it were a gasser but, these diesel starters really draw a lot of current so I'll NOT suggest that. Maybe someone on the forum has done it and will chime in. Do you have a buddy or two that would help push it in the garage (or someone with a winter beater that would push it for you?). If you were in Michigan, I'd help you out. One last thought, if it's the starter contacts going bad, the screwdriver across the solenoid trick won't work (if it's the solenoid itself, then yes). I've been where you're at more than once, had to tunnel under trucks and cars as a kid (Dad always bought the Chiltons/Haynes manual and we did the rest). Now at the young age of 40, I'm too old for that sh!t (always wanted to use that one) and the BOSS (wife) of 18 glorious years let me attatch a 2+ car garage to the house (had to add 3 bedrooms to the house first). Best of luck, Dave.
yeah ive been reading and from what i gather hooking a jumper wire from pin 86 to 85 will start it, it irritates me to crawl under when its 5 ft from my heated garage (complete with beer fridge haha). i appreciate the help dave
I never could figure out why the rest of the "Big 3" didn't follow Fords' lead and have the solenoid remotely located on the inner fender like in the "Good Ole Days". Made it easy to rule out the solenoid without having to get under the truck. I've read about the 85/86 pin jumper and it sounds a lot safer than jumping the solenoid with a screw driver (my shade tree roots are begining to show). I wasn't always ASE certified, and I've been an engineer (mechanical) for years and don't have the time I used to for tinkering but, I still make time. Best of luck, Dave.
First, you need to check for voltage at the starter solenoid wire to see if you are getting power to the starter solenoid. Disconnect the wire, so engine does not turn over, have a helper hold the key in start, test for voltage on wire. You should read battery voltage. If you are getting power to the solenoid, the problem is in the starter. Probably the solenoid contacts.
If you are not getting power to the solenoid, do the following tests.
To jump start at the relay remove the relay, connect a wire to the socket for pin 87, then touch the socket for pin 30. Pin 30 has constant battery voltage. Pin 87 is the wire going to the starter solenoid terminal. The starter should engage.
Pins 86 and 85 is the relay trigger circuit. Pin 86 should have battery voltage with the key held to start, going thru clutch switch if manual tranny. Pin 85 should have continuity to ground going thru the park/neutral switch if automatic tranny with tranny in park or neutral.
My truck was beginning to have start up issues and it got to the point where the starter was even smoking when I turned the key to crank the engine. I pushed that starter to the limit because just the other day it finally crapped out on me for good. I turned the key........one click and then silence. lol Went and got a new starter, swapped that puppy in and that baby cranked up with no hesitation. So perhaps you just need a new starter. Ohh, I even went to AutoZone a few days prior to have the start up system tested since it was acting weird and it passed.
ok so yesterday i replaced my starter, which really wasnt as bad as i thought it would be. i cleaned it up really good to ensure a good ground and cleaned all terminals (again) just to ensure good connections and still nothing. both of my batteries read 12.7 volts, even when the key is turned they stay right at 12.7. im starting to think i have something going on with the ignition.
Had almost the same problem, but mine would completely shut all power down as soon as I hit the key. No lights, no buzzer nothing, tried everything, even hooked 2 batteries from a Mack dump truck and melted jumper cables. Anyway I figured out I could take positive cable off of drivers side battery, sometimes had to do this 2 or 3 times and it would finally start. figured out that it was not tight enough I guess. Ended up putting a penny in it until I get time to replace cables, it has started fine since then. This might not help your problem, but it won't cost you anything to try either. Good luck.
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