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Head Gasket and KDP Dealings With...

1K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  4320diesel 
#1 ·
sorry for my insane number of threads lately(truck was breaking down a bunch in a row and i knew you guys had some sort of idea what was wrong). anways, im changing the HG and while im doing major surgery im going to check on the KDP(see if it was dealt with or if it needs to be dealt with) (if its missing and nothings broke im moving to vegas, nuff said :party018: ) anyways, i was poking around and i cant find these plugs in the cowl to let me snake the push rods through, i must not be looking hard enough, or do i need to cut the underhood insulation? also i found that dodge didnt like to spare any room on allowing for removal of the I/C and the radiator... also had a small argument with the damper in which i got pissed off and went inside and watched tv for the rest of the afternoon lol. oh and ill have pics tomorrow but something hit my I/C and hit it HARD! like before i got the truck because the I/C has a fair sized crunch in the bottom and its bent backwards a ways. doesnt leak though, or if it does i cant hear it in the cab and have no noticable boost losses. also, would it be safe to use an impact wrench on the exhaust manifold bolts? ive done this before on gas engines but im not sure about it on this cummins, id rather not strip out a bolt hole or twist one off or something stupid like that, as i plan to have the truck up and running by newyears eve to take into town and show off to a few people. :thumbsup:
 
#2 ·
oh and heres where i come across some controversey... on the forum it says 87 ft/lbs then another 90* turn for the head bolts when torquing. then in this spec book i got from my boss says for 3.9L and 5.9L B sieres engines to torque as follows: tighten all bolts to 66ft.lbs; tighten bolts long bolts to 89ft.lbs; tighten short bolts to 66ft. lbs; tighten long bolts to 89ft.lbs; tighten all bolts an aditional 90*. so what i make out of this is torque em all to 66 pounds in sequence, then go back through it in sequence and torque the long bolts to 89 but not touch the short ones? or do i just make sure theyre still at 66? then go back over all the long ones to make sure theyre still at 89, then go back through the sequence and give them another quarter turn. do i run the engine in between all these torquings and do i have to recheck them after letting it warm up and cool back down? or am i way off, and is this the proper way to do it, or is this wrong? i dont want to have to do this again anytime soon so i wanna do it right the first time and hear from someone whos done a HG before and has it still holding lol. in this same book it shows for a ISB 5.9 (24V) it just says 59/77/77/90* i dont see why you have to go over it twice at 77. would that just to be sure the gasket hasnt squashed anymore in one area? sorry for coming off as a total idiot and diesel newby, ive run diesels all my life but never had to really do anything internal with one before. most intensive ive gotten with one on my own was an ip.
 
#3 ·
ok for the pushrod question remove the wind sheild wipers and then the plastic cowel. there are 2 service ports in there that you can remove the pushrods through dont cut the insulation. if you are redoing the head do what i did and get the whole cummins upper end gaske set and save some money there. get the mighty desel head bolts there olny 130 bucks and like 40% stronger than stock. i ported and polished my head which made a huge difference in boost responce. also got the 60 lb valve springs and the 4k gsk kit that made a huge difference in drivability as well i used an impact to remove the exhaust manifold and an air ratchet to put it back on then hand tightened it back up. have fun with this man took me a month to get all the part in order and about 3 days to do it all my self in my driveway but its worth it also might get your injectors cleaned and tested one of mine was stuck closed
 
#4 ·
i got the cummins HG with the upper end gasket set. and new cummins head bolts. should be good then. ill give the injectors a visual inspection since i dont have a pop tester, then if it runs bad after its back together ill rip out all 6 injectors and get new ones.
 
#5 · (Edited)
According to my factory service manual all the bolts go to 89 plus another 90 degrees. Check all the bolts for tq before the 90 degree turn. No retorque required. I did not have to remove the wiper cowling on mine. Just reached under there and pulled the rubber caps out.
 
#6 ·
ive read in a few places now that all bolts except the 6 real long ones that retain the rockers go to 66 then get the 90* turn and the 6 long ones get 89 then the extra 90*. anyways, got the head off this morning, some bozo put a Fail Pro gasket in there with the extra skinny fire rings or whatever those are called. well #5 blew out causing the presure to go into #6. there is very very very slight burning of the head that after i cleaned it all up can only be seen under bright light as very small dots so i think this is alright. i still need to clean up the block surface and thats going to take a bit more time as theres more carbon caked up on it. #5 and #6 piston bowls were both right full of diesel fuel so they werent firing at all in the last few mins of operation. also being a dumbass i set the head on the injector tips so im going to be replacing all of them as well(plus its out this far i might as well do it while theyre easy to get at right?). ill have carnage pics in a bit here. some how my new headbolts didnt come with the 6 extra long ones so i need to check that out tomorrow at work along with getting my hands on a valve spring compressor to change the valve seals and maybe put some 60pounder springs in there. im so glad its not a burned valve, or a hole in a piston, or a cracked head(i spent 30 mins looking between all the valves and around the injector hole to see for cracks and found none even with a real bright light and cleaning it all up). the big ol pig SHOULD be up and running by newyears eve. also found that my WG sensing line was clogged with rust and dirt from the WG diaphram all the way to about 3" away from the AFC housing, and the diaphram is ruptured and the spring was the only thing half assed opening the WG before and even then it was really weak so i imagine that was a cause for some of my turbo lag. what does everyone recomend for a WG diaphram? a banks big head one? or just a factory replacement?
 
#8 ·
ive read in a few places now that all bolts except the 6 real long ones that retain the rockers go to 66 then get the 90* turn and the 6 long ones get 89 then the extra 90*.
I happened on that page while doing some work today. You are correct, my apologies.
 
#9 ·
dont worry about it man. 9 times out of 10 you're going to find that im wrong.
 
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