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98 12 valve oil going everywhere.

6K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  schueller74 
#1 ·
I just traded my 87 chummins for a 98 dodge ram2500 and i knew it had a little oil leak from the front seal, but by the way it ran it didnt bother me. So i drove it home And looking at the boost gauge i could mash the pedal down about 3/4 down and it would shoot up and peg the gauge 30psi. So i knew the WG wa blocked.well the probblen is its blowing oil everywhere and getting all over the tailate and bottom of my truck. I put my finger over the blowby tube them let it run and then let off and it blew out alot of air. It has used 6 quarts this week and i need to fix it
 
#5 ·
my bad i was thinking about my trucks exhaust it stops at the axle and when my turbo seals went i had oil every where underneath.

ok now that i reread the op...... my timing case is cracked(which i originally thought was my front seal) and oil goes everywhere when driving, and leaks a little bit at idle/ probably same amount as your front seal. You should clean the engine bay and at running temps find your oil leaks. Most likely the seal if you already know its leaking, the engine fan will blow that oil all over and make a leak look really bad.

As far as your wastegate that's entirely up to you, just keep an eye on the EGT's and get a larger boost gauge imho.
 
#6 ·
Well i unplugged the wastegate cause i didnt like the way it boosted. Also checked and i agree with you about the front seal. The PO gave me the receipt for thw turbo it was rebuilt 11000 miles ago and i checked and no oil at all. Also i put a bottle as a blowby catch tank anc theres maybe 6 drops after driving 30 miles kind of hard. All the oil loss is painting my front diff and oil pan and everything the fan blows. I am going to the carwash with some old clothes and gonna get underneath it and wash this puppy clean. Then replacing valve cover gaskets, oil pan and front timing and vacuum to timing gasket. Do you think itd be cheaper ordering through cummins on these?
 
#7 ·
Check your timing cover to see if the kdp came loose and busted a hole in it. If so, prepare for fun and games. If it's not the tab, pull the front part of the cover off anyway and tab the pin unless the previous owner says for sure that they tabbed it. During that process you will replace the gasket between the front part of the cover and the back part of it, and you'll have a perfect chance to replace the front seal. While you're in there, you'll have the chance to tighten up some of the bolts that hold the back part of the cover to the engine block, thereby giving you a chance to address 3 potential leaks in one operation. The whole thing can be done in well under a day, and you don't even have to drain your cooling system. You might as well change the oil while you're at it, bringing the total cost in materials to about $100 for an oil change, fixing 3 potential leaks, and ensuring that the kdp doesn't come loose and ruin your timing cover.

Hint: If the pin is not tabbed and it comes loose, it will almost certainly bust the cover. THAT requires removing the camshaft, as the back part of the cover (which is what gets broken) can't be removed with the cam in the engine. So, best get on the good foot and handle it-hopefully the oil leak isn't your cover being already busted.
 
#9 ·
Could be, but he said this: "Also i put a bottle as a blowby catch tank anc theres maybe 6 drops after driving 30 miles kind of hard."

I'd think that it would have put more than that into the bottle if crankcase pressurization was the cause of the leak. I dunno, I just hope his dowel pin hasn't gone to that great gear in the sky.
 
#11 ·
Nope-4 15 millimeter bolts and it falls right off. Just try to bust the fan nut loose before you pull the belt off-sometimes you can get it loose just using belt tension to hold the pulley still. Get plenty of brake parts cleaner, as you'll be wanting to blast away dirt. In fact, I'd drain the oil, leave the plug out, and pull the cover, in that order. That way you can spray some cleaner into the oil pan and give it a cleaning before you put the new oil in. Just remember to replace the plug when you're done!
 
#12 ·
As a side note, this is why the sensor on the 12v motors is called the ESS (engine speed sensor) and on the later trucks it's called the cps (crankshaft position sensor). The computer does not need to know the exact position of the crankshaft on a 12v, it only needs to know that it's rotating and how fast it's rotating for the tach. This means that you can put the damper back on in any of the 4 possible positions and it doesn't make any difference which one you choose. On a 24v, the computer may need to know exactly where in it's rotation the crankshaft is so that the proper cylinder can get fuel.
 
#14 ·
You should get them at a cummins or case equipment dealer. When you call them you should have the serial number of your engine written down. It'll be on that little metal placard that's hopefully still attached to the driver's side of your timing cover. Having that will completely sidestep an incredible amount of bull and allow the person on the other end of the phone to effortlessly get you the right stuff the first time.

Or: If you live anywhere near Montgomery, AL, you should call Cowin Equipment Company and ask to speak to JD, who will then give you a good price on nearly anything you might need for your engine. No, I'm not JD, but he's one of my best friends.
 
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