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Cylinder Head Rebuild Cost?

27K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  petie6464 
#1 ·
So the old machine just turned over 250k miles a few days ago. I have Lee doing some new 5x12 injectors and was thinking to rebuild the head when I do the injectors? Why?. .she runs well but leaks coolant externally near #6 so I figure now may be the time. Question is what does this rebuilding the head typically cost? I can do all the labor as far as the R&R part. Also is there anything I should consider once I have the head off? A per my sig on this truck I am not planning on making more power (outside of the new injectors) I like the way it runs now.
Thanks guys!
 
#2 ·
Cylinder Head Rebuild

My uncle just got through doing one in a 1998 model. He took it to a local machine shop and had everything set to spec. (no performance mods) and it cost him right around $200.00.
 
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#3 ·
Really:shock: Man I didin't thick a shop would clean it for under $50 bucks. I want at the least the head: cleaned, guides checked/replaced, deck checked/surfaced, new valves, seals, valve job and I woulul like to have a shop do it that has a Serdi Seat Machine and new valve springs and keepers. I was planing on $1000 or so?? Did I miss anything?
 
#4 ·
I replaced my head gasket because of an external leak at about 190k. I checked the deck and the head for flatness with a good straight edge and a feeler gauge. I replaced the valve seals, installed 60 lb springs and reinstalled it. Unless you have overheated it, or beat on it, I doubt you need anything else.
 
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#5 ·
I think your going about it the right way. Plan for 1000 bucks and if it cost you 200 you will be happy. While off why not do some port work? Maybe install some ARP studs? O-ring the head maybe?
 
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#6 ·
I would do the studs but I guess from the power it makes and the boost (34-36lbs. HP unknown) I don't need them. I guess I could spend whatever $ amount I want to on it. I want to do it right but I don't want to throw money away either. I will get the head off and look it over check for warpage/straightness, check the guides, do a valve job and replace the seals, springs and keepers and stick it back together. That way I did what I could to freshen her up and am not just blowing $ My goal to get another 250k miles~

Thanks!
 
#8 ·
Is it normal to replace the head bolts? And is this one of those things that its less $ to replace them with studs than purchase new head bolts from Cummins? When you o-ring the head do you still use the OEM gasket? Thanks!
 
#10 ·
Yes on the bolts. they SHOULD be replaced. I know people who dont, but they are TTY (torque to yield) headbolts. In other words they are designed to stretch. I tried to re-use mine and one bolt just would not torque. pulled it out and it had stretched almost 3/4 of an inch :shocked: so I put all new in. cost me, a mechanic at shop cost around 150 bucks for bolts. You can bank on paying app. 30% more for them (unless you work at a shop obviously...).

IMO get the regular ARP or A1 studs, torque them to 130 ft/lbs, stocker gasket and go.
 
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#11 ·
The Cummins head gasket kit comes with a gauge to measure the stretch of the old bolts. Perfectly fine to reuse them if the are in spec. I've put almost 500k miles on mine since I replaced the head gasket. Unless you are doing some high HP mods, IMO, o-rings and studs will not give you much of a return on your money. BTW, I only put new valve springs in to accomodate a gsk. Nothing wrong with the original springs.
 
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#15 ·
To the original poster, it seems like you're planning on having a lot of stuff done. I would advise you to have the head surfaced and LIR it. (Let It Ride) This is not a 6 liter powerjoke, these engines were designed to last approximately an eternity at anywhere near stock power levels. If it makes you feel better, have the guides checked, but so far as just reflexively replacing the guides and the valves, no, you're most likely only throwing money away there.
 
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#16 ·
Yes it would seem that way. I would not even pull the head if it was not leaking coolant externally. I'm the type that like to "Do it right" and I thought that once I had it off to do the head but I believe at this point I'm just going to give it a thorough inspection and go from there. I image I will just be able to clean her up, I will check the head for straightness and check the guides and valve seats, If all is good new seals studs and gaskets and back she go's. Thank for all the info!!
 
#17 ·
i know times are tough ,but the $300.00 i spent (decked.006, pressure tested and new guides) was worth the peace of mind. they also installed my new 60# springs.
 
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