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94-98 PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING
i got a reman 47re being shipped to me right now. i will be putting it in next weekend. i have never changed out a trans before but i'm pretty confident i can handle it. i plan on using a good trans jack first of all not even gonna waste my time wresteling that heavy sob around. i read instructions in 2 different service manuals and i just have a few questions.
1.which acess plate should i use to acess the tc bolts
2.it said to put a mark on the tc so you could line it back up on reinstall but i have a new trans wiht a new tc so what do i do about that.
3.do i need to drop the transfer case
4.will i need any special tools
that's it for now i will probably come up with a few more and i will post them up
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2008 2500 6.7 4x4 auto qcsb/ egr,dpf,throttle valve deleted 5in TBE and smarty tuned
No special tools needed other than the transmission jack. You will need extensions to get at the upper bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. Don't forget to remove the dipstick tube before pulling the transmission. I remove the transfer case from the transmission instead of removing the whole mess as one unit. Some people remove the whole mess as one unit. You may need a way to spread the frame at the transmission mount cross member. That depends on the truck. That cross member has to go up and then to the rear because the ends are slanted a little bit. A BIG hammer and strong language may be needed to get it out without spreading the frame a little bit. There is an access plate on the passenger side on the front of the bell housing that is held on by two screws. Use a 10mm socket for it. Don't worry about marking the TC for a new one. Cut the heads off a couple of long screws to use as alignment pins to help install the transmission.
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KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4, 3.54, EGT, boost, fuel pressure, trans temp guages, PacBrake, TST #5, DTT VB, DTT triple disk TC, DTT billet flex plate, Cummins chrome kit.
also drain as much oil as possible let it drain overnight remove the t/case if you don't have professional level lifting jacks even the od unit can be removed if you are by yourself and need to drop the trans. od is about 40 pounds
dipstick, linkage and vacuum lines must be removed and accounted for before you begin.
be very careful to not let the torque converter slide out of the bellhousing when you slide the transmisinon back to free it from the flex plate.
it will likely want to slide out and may bonk you on the noggin or smash a hand or really mess up your day in some unpleasant ways gently pull it out of the bell housing before you lower the jack
check your flex plate for cracks and excessive wear on the teeth
clean your coolers with cooler klean from Napa
how many reman transmissions i have seen ruined from a plugged cooler or lines? lots.
plan on a new rear main seal on the engine
maybe fuel return and supply lines while you are in there
disconnect batteries before removing starter if you pull the adapter plate which you must do to change rear main seal, to prevent accidental welding sparks
take this opportunity to change your heat exchanger connections on your cooling lines if you use the steel lines from the factory use a compression fitting on the steel line end with an NPT fitting on the other end to go into the exchanger
check carefully the cooling lines where they attach to the front cooler and the pan for wear-through
all of this is much easier to do with the transmission on the shop floor
also take this time to service or remove your prefilter and heater.
its manually a tough job but very simple in terms of complication. lift the truck as high as you safely can on blocks under the front axle
be prepared to clean the area with a power washer before and after the trans is out it makes the job a lot more pleasant.
now is a good time to change the ouput shaft seals in the transfer case too if they look the least bit weepy
and new u joints if they are wobbly
plan on two full days but don't be surprised if it takes a week. for you first time and don't hurry "cause you need it monday to drive ".
that is a sure way to forget something
In my personal experience i went to change a rear u joint and that was 8 months ago.
i just kept going deeper into the fix and ended up with new trans, transfer case, rear axle bearings rear suspension and numerous motor and line connection modifications.
it still aint together yet, for i dream up of new things to do every day now i am working on a new tranny cooling system and system for water injection.
and i still have to do the brakes, convert to synthetic in the rear axle...front bearings put the bed back on and so on.
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1994 3500 dually build date:12-93 new:trans, t case, cage long arm suspension sulastics, pre filter/heater MIA / HX35/40 4/5inch exh more much more
lots of shop towel to clean up the mess you are gonna have, like said above it actualy pretty straight forward and eay just the parts are heavy, just take your time and you will be fine
Just did mine, got the trans jack @ H.F. Take off the Xcase left OD on, hit the cross member straight up, mine took one hit, then you can move it back by hand. Lower the back of the trans as much as you can then use the extentions to get @ the top bell housing bolts. Take pictures especially of the TV cable and shift linkage. I pulled mine by myself but had a friend help put it back in. Its going to take about 16 qts of ATF+4 put in about 6-7 qts start the engine to pump the fluid and start adding the rest, I put in 8 qts and fluid started running out, scared the Shiite out of me.
yes safe but be sure to soak your clutches first
and fill the the torque converter as much as possible before installing and tranny will take about 17 quarts when its full but start with 16 so you dont overfill and get it all over
if you bought a deep pan it will take more
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1994 3500 dually build date:12-93 new:trans, t case, cage long arm suspension sulastics, pre filter/heater MIA / HX35/40 4/5inch exh more much more
"its manually a tough job but very simple in terms of complication. lift the truck as high as you safely can on blocks under the front axle"
use jack stands instead. please keep safety in the forefront. go slow and have a good time doing it, safely
rande
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1996 2500 clb cab long bed auto, stock airbox with stock filter, no fuel plate, tranny holding fine. Recon L E D taillights an 3rd brake light. isspro gauges, boost, pyro, trans temp, AND MBRP 4inch exhaust, no tip.
You are going to be working in the rear as well so use four axle stands. Also you are going to want to run it some when you are filling it, so you want the rear axle off the ground too.
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KDP tab fix info and fuel system article jgeorge1@suddenlink.net '95 2500 CC auto 4X4, 3.54, EGT, boost, fuel pressure, trans temp guages, PacBrake, TST #5, DTT VB, DTT triple disk TC, DTT billet flex plate, Cummins chrome kit.
yes safe but be sure to soak your clutches first
and fill the the torque converter as much as possible before installing and tranny will take about 17 quarts when its full but start with 16 so you dont overfill and get it all over
if you bought a deep pan it will take more
how do i go about soaking the clutches if i'm not taking the trans apart just swapping a new one in
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2008 2500 6.7 4x4 auto qcsb/ egr,dpf,throttle valve deleted 5in TBE and smarty tuned
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You are going to be working in the rear as well so use four axle stands. Also you are going to want to run it some when you are filling it, so you want the rear axle off the ground too.
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