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94-98 PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING
has anyone done this to their crummy limited slip differentials that give terrible traction? how did it go? does it make the truck jump around the turns?
let me know what you guys think I might do it in the shop sometime this week if it sounds okay
Simon
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01 excab sb slt Laramie with leather, built auto, raptor pump, built vp, rv275s, cortex(junk), edge insight cs
If you like replacing tires all the time than sure it is a great idea. Yeah its a cheap way to lock a rear end, but with a lot of street driving you are going to eventually break the rear end. Welding the spiders ruins the heat treating and makes them weaker.
If you want cheap and not worry about blowing the diff up spend a least a little cash and buy a spool. Linclon lockers are only good for off road use only. Either case you are not going to have good street manners.
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1998 3500 4x4 5 speed reg cab dually 12valve
TST #10, ATS exhaust man, 5" turbo back exhaust twin 5" stacks, SB 13.5 clutch, BHAF, DDP 75 hp injectors, 3000gsk, timing set at 16
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bluedually4x4 For This Useful Post:
Like said above, I would try to stay away from a full-time locker, or welded diff. It will eat tires, chirp your tires when turning. When you turn corners your tires will need to rotate at different speeds. Something has to give to allow this, if your tires dont then an axle might have to. The problems will only be worse with heavy trucks and especially when towing or hauling.
I would recommend a more agressive limited slip like trutrac or a selectable locker like ARB air locker. You can get one of the lunchbox lockers like a lock-right. The lock-right will unlock when cornering as long as your not accelerating. but they are a little noisy too.
If price was not a concern and you need a locker I would have to guess the ARB air locker would be the best fit. Its an open diff when off, and a true locker when on.
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98 12v, 48RE, Revmax kit, V/B, triple disc stage 5, ultra low stall with a few other billet pieces. AFC modded, 100ish plate, 16.5ish*, KDP gone, 60lb springs, 4K-GSK, BHAF, pyro, trans, boost guage. , 72 AM general M35A2 LDT465
The Following User Says Thank You to jnicewan For This Useful Post:
The only ones I have welded up were for the front of jeeps that were mostly on the trail. Then they ate stub shafts when the u-joints gave up.
I did use a 'mini spool' in an open diff in a rear dana 44 that worked good. It was also in a jeep so I don't know if it would hold up behind a Cummins or if they even make them for that big of a diff. It was a cool way to make the open carrier into a spool without making it a 'Lincoln Locker'
My factory limited slip seems to work great. Not sure what dodge put in them, but I have 90k and it still does a good job.
my main problem is just barely getting on it in the rain.. and in lower canada.. its raining all the time.. driving me INSANE. I have about 300 bucks to spend MAX to be honest. just thought id be good with a cheapo welding job but thank god I came here and got and am getting some good advise
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01 excab sb slt Laramie with leather, built auto, raptor pump, built vp, rv275s, cortex(junk), edge insight cs
Your clutches are probably burnt up from some goofball doing burnouts (maybe you LOL)
The LSD in these things are pretty hefty and have alot of holding power if set up right. You can pull yours apart apart and check the condition of the clutches as re-stack them and see what happens.
If the clutches are toast, these things are extremely expensive to rebuild (basic clutch kit ~$500)
If you only have $300, dont waste your money on any half azz solutions. either save up some more coin to do the job right, or just forget about it.
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2007 Laramie 3500, 4.5" RevTek, 35x12.5 ProComp MTRs, buckstop front+rear, bullydog TD, BD RFI intake, Lightforce 140s in the bumper, 240HIDs up top
1997 SLT 2500, 5.5" fabtech, 36x13.5 IROKs, 5x12s, s300, 4kgsk, inj pump FUBAR
The Following User Says Thank You to ykdave For This Useful Post:
Dam, it costs $500 to rebuild our posi units in these trucks? That sucks. When was the last time you did a rearend fluid change? I changed mine and my posi is tight and doesnt slip much... but still.... $500 for a rebuild???????
I actually havent changed the fluid since i bought the truck about 10,000km ago.. could the old oil be causing it to slip ect?
what kind of fluid should I put in it that would help it tighten up alot?
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01 excab sb slt Laramie with leather, built auto, raptor pump, built vp, rv275s, cortex(junk), edge insight cs
I have a lock right locker in my jeep, works great traction wise but due to the design it is going to wear out but it was cheap and easy to install (no removing the diff). However on the pavement on tighter turns, backing, parking it isn't nice and i can only imagine it will be worse with the cummins torque. In the winter you have to be careful with both the rear tires spinning at the same speed you can whip around with almost no effort, I try and prevent it when driving on snow packed streets but it still gets me once in a while, cookies are fun though. I would leave the diff the way it is or buy a selectable locker.
I would do it if it was a truck that was offroad a lot, but driving around on pavement will tear up tires and eventually break your welds IMO.
I dont know why, but my rear axle has the best limited slip diff I have ever seen. After all these miles it has never done a one tire fire burnout, ever. Just did a complete donut the other night on asphalt, two black as night marks. Its wierd.
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1999 2500 nv4500 swap 349,000 mi. Valair Ceramic/Ceramic, Edge Comp stacked with smarty, Raptor 150, 75hp CPP nozzles, homemade pusher intake, no wastegate hitting 45 lbs, BHAF, 4" TBE, Ranch Hand Accesories, Kool-vues, Sound system
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