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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 94-98 12V Forums > 94-98 Powertrain
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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Old 05-25-2010, 11:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Transfer pump help!

What would be symptoms of a transfer pump loosing pressure? I know I need to check my pressure to see what it is actually pumping, but thought I would see from others what the motor acts like when the TP is going.
I am having these issues: turbo wont push more than 22 psi even under load(waste gate set at 36), egts never get over about 950F even when floored, doesnt have much power when under load, star turned all the way forward and it barley puffs black smoke. I have recently replaced the over flow valve and that wasnt it.
It just sounds like a fuel pressure issue to me. If it helps the truck has around 165K.
Any ideas???
Thanks for the help!
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Old 05-26-2010, 12:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I am currently having some problems with my fuel but recently replaced my pump

my truck started becoming hard to start when cold, and even after a good twenty minute warm up it would cut out a bunch at about 1500 rpm until it was driven for a while. once it was warm it started and ran alright but with lack of power.

had to feather the peddle when starting, blew white smoke and slowly progressed to wear i couldnt get the truck started. replaced the pump fixed the problem and now four months later back at the same symptoms before replacing it.

thats been my experience, hope it helps!
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97 5.9-12 v 35" bf-mud terrain/constant fuel issue/ fixed it by removing fuel heater told that the cummins is a jewel surronded by junk and{starting to believe} mostly stock/ wife just landed dam good jobwish list a mile long and cant wait
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Click> Low Pressure Fuel System Diagnostic Procedures
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Garmen- I wonder if you have an overflow valve issue. You can buy one off of ebay for about 40 bucks and it takes about 15 min. to replace.
I am still stumped on my issue. I think it very well could be the TP though.
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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well i have good news, i was certain that i had a bad pump because i just replaced it, thought it was bum pump. anyhow after reading all your advice i decided to check some things, redneck style.

i dont have much tools with me here so i took that pump off and took it apart it seemed fine, and as many of you have said they rerley go out and i can see why there isnt much to them to go out. anyhow once i had that pump off i tried to siphion fuel through the feed line and was able to with out much effort, so it elimated the tank and any lines up until that pump.

i reattached the pump just above the motor with the feed line on and it primed and pumped fuel so i then took a look at that heater. i had read you have to drill out rivets to get it off but mine just has a inner bolt that holds it on and then the strainer goes in to that.

i removed that piece of crap (should off the first time) i checked all my connections and put the pump on and the truck runs great, so here is where i must admit stupididy, the first time i replaced that pump many of you said it probably wasnt the pump and i think you were right.

my wife had taken the truck in on student days at wyotech when she first started and had cleaned the pre filter/strainer and it was shortly after that my problems started, i think breaking all that lose started the problem and when i replaced my pump everything got tightened up good on that heater up until now.

so i should of listened i didnt remove that heater because i figured the designers put that there for a reason anyways its in the trash now and my problems solved

thanks for all your help should of listened the first time couldnt have done it with out all of you
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97 5.9-12 v 35" bf-mud terrain/constant fuel issue/ fixed it by removing fuel heater told that the cummins is a jewel surronded by junk and{starting to believe} mostly stock/ wife just landed dam good jobwish list a mile long and cant wait
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Old 05-27-2010, 11:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So you had junk in the pre filter or was the problem in the heater? So do you not need the heater? In a tech article it said no, but I dont want to get stranded. How did you remove the heater? Whats the easiest way to put on a temporary fuel gauge? I have the old over flow valve can I use that in the inlet side to hook to a gauge?
Thanks for the help! I dont know where to start.
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Read this> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...m-writeup.html

Removing the fuel heater is a really simple job. If you don't want to get stranded you need to remove that POS.
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Old 05-28-2010, 11:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cumminsboy97 View Post
So you had junk in the pre filter or was the problem in the heater? So do you not need the heater? In a tech article it said no, but I dont want to get stranded. How did you remove the heater? Whats the easiest way to put on a temporary fuel gauge? I have the old over flow valve can I use that in the inlet side to hook to a gauge?
Thanks for the help! I dont know where to start.
No my problem was the heater, if you havent read the articl in the last post, it is a well known cause for air leaks, my strainer is nearly always spotless.
if you read that article i believe it shows the potential areas that it leaks air.

i had left mine on because i figured it was there for a reason, but as many said it is useless, because after that heater i think they said there is like a quart of fuel in the filter can and in all the lines after that, so when you start your truck your running all that cold fuel to begin with, so useless basically.

i also was worried about takeing it off because of living in a pretty cold area but the truck runs great now and starts better than it has in a long time, i think that heater creates restriction also.

anyhow that write up should show you most of what you need, but if that is the same one i read it said something about having to drill out some rivets to seperate that heater from the base, but with mine (97 12v) you have the bracket your strainer is on (mounts with the lift pump) then the heater and then your strainer or pre filter. i unscrewed my strainer and then where that threads into is itself a bolt that holds the heater on, i removed that (it was loose anyways) and the heater section comes right off. then just screw your strainer back on, and thats that.

also the wiring harness that is attached, one part provides the power for the heater and the other goes to a piece mounted on the bracket, which i believe is probably a sensor or temp sens, i unplugged and held on to that not sure if it would affect anything, hasnt yet so i just left it off.

good luck and again that right up helps a lot.
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Old 05-28-2010, 11:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The drill out rivets comment was that if you want to see the damage inside the fuel heater then you have to drill out the rivets holding it together. Otherwise you don't need to do that. My fuel heater looked fine until I opened it up to expose the burned up contacts.
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Old 05-28-2010, 04:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks guys! I think I will replace my TP anyway when I am removing the heater. Looks like they are around $80 and if I am already there taking off the heater I might as well do it because the truck has 170K miles. Dont you think?
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
I might as well do it because the truck has 170K miles. Dont you think?
My 3500 has 260k on the original lift pump.
The 2500's pump was replaced at 210k

My philosophy is if it ain't broke don't fix it.
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I agree with illflem. I thought I had a LP issue and was ready to change it. Turns out it was a fuel line issue. My pump is original and now has close to 269,000 miles on it. It is still working good.

Removing the fuel heater is a very simple job. There is a quad o'ring on top of the fuel heater. It may stick to the filter housing. Check to make sure it is not stuck there and that if comes off with the heater.
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