First Plate Change ?

[Warricksniper]

Hi everyone I am a proud owner of a 95 2500 2wd 12V 5.9 Cummins with the 4500 Man. New Venture and a DANA 80 Rear End. I have owned the Truck for 5 years and it has 170K on it.

This truck is my daily driver , about 65+ miles a day, but I also about 20 or so times a year pull to circle tracks around the area. Most of my race trips are about 500 miles round trip, with some flat and some very hilly areas. I am pulling ruffly around 7K pounds with a tag trailer.

My first step was to remove the CAT and Muffler, which I did. I have 3 inch all the way out now. I now want to add a fuel plate, and am really needing some advice on what to do.

I have read that I should at least get a EGT gauge first, Right?

Okay so after I do that I want to replace the fuel plate. Of course I want the #5 or 275hp plate, but is this not possible without other modifications to keep EGT's down? Would the #6 be a good plate? I guess really what I am looking for is a good run down on each plate and what would work best for my situation.

Thanks Phil

[Racer9]

Gauges should be the first investment, before doing any other mods.
A 4" exhaust would also be a good investment.
Plan on a clutch, the oem one will start slipping with the added torque.
Now, the plate only has an effect on the motor at full throttle. Any less and the fuel is being controlled by the AFC. So, grind you're plate to a #100, (save yourself $100+) and control the egt's with your right foot.
Heres more tuneing info CumminsDatabase.com :: Turning Up A P7100 Pump
Search on plate profiles, or #100 for more info.

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'96 CTD, 4X4 flatbed, Isspro gauges, Skyjacker D-25's, ThurenFab track bar, lockRite.

Motor; BHAF, #100 fuel plate, Shimmed gov springs, Loose starwheel.

Exhaust; 16cm housing, 4" downpipe, 5" turnout stacks.

Trans; Dunrite VB/TC, Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.

[White Rat]

I have the same truck as you, when I changed the plate the EGT's can get up to 1200* pretty quick so you should get the gages first (boost & EGT). Save you self the $100+ and grind you own 100 plate and get a 3000 governor spring kit. You can also save the $100+ 3kgsk and do the 3k washers, my truck starts to defuel at 3400rpm and I have ran the washers for a year now with out any problems.

With all the mods done to my truck, the stock clutch has held fine and hasn't slipped once. All my mods are listed in my signature, you should fill yours out so people know the particulars of your truck.

Here's a pic of my home ground 100

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95, Reg cab, NV45, 2wd, 3.5 LSD rear, Boost + pyro, 215's, Bhaf, Straight piped, 3k washers, AFC gutted, 100 plate, Boost control valve, the fast red interior and truely rust free!!

[Warricksniper]

Thanks guys this is pointing me in the right direction. It will take me little bit to save up for the Gauges, so I can do alittle more reading.

[Cummins6speed]

Now what exactly is this fuel plate/ torque plate? are they the same thing? what do they do?

[Rbratby]

A fuel plate and a torque plate are the same thing.

__________________
Modified 97 3500
CoalTrain Diesel Performance
Richard 734-673-4867
Full line of diesel repair and performance items. Custom injectors, turbos, injection pumps, gauges and more!
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CoalTraindieselperformance.com

[Cummins6speed]

and what does it do?

[cumminshouse]

I have a 96 1 ton as my daily driver. I just put a #11 fuel plate from BD in it. From the research i did it seemed to be the best for a daily driver that pulled every once and a while. The numbers on the plate were 280 hp and 680 ft/lbs

[Ridemywideglide]

Originally Posted by Racer9

Now, the plate only has an effect on the motor at full throttle. Any less and the fuel is being controlled by the AFC.

If this were true, why would it matter what you ground the plate too, as it would only be hitting the top 1/4 inch anyway??
The AFC only controls fuel in low/no boost conditions.. once boost is up (depending on your star wheel) the AFC is out of the way..

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1996 2500 CTD, Ext Cab SLT Laramie, Longbed 4x4, 225K (rebuilt at 212K), 5 spd, 4:10's, 4 inch lift, 315/75/16's, Max Spool 2, HX40/16, Smokem's 5x012's, No plate, Hacked AFC, Autolite EGT, Boost & Fuel Pressure guages.
2005 WideGlide, Whiskers limited paint, Stage 1, SERT tuned. Soon to be 98"

[Racer9]

Originally Posted by Ridemywideglide

If this were true, why would it matter what you ground the plate too, as it would only be hitting the top 1/4 inch anyway??
The AFC only controls fuel in low/no boost conditions.. once boost is up (depending on your star wheel) the AFC is out of the way..

It really doesn't matter what plate you have, until wide open throttle. That is why there are different profiles, for differently modded motors, and drivers. When towing, or spending much time at WOT, you can quickly overheat and melt the turbo and pistons, if you were running too large of a plate, and not watching the egt gauge.
The AFC arm moves progressively, according to amount of boost. More boost moves it further, low boost moves it less, so it controls fueling until full boost, or, wide open throttle, when it moves far enough for the governer arm to contact the plate and control full power fueling.
You don't get full movement of the AFC arm until full boost, and you don't get full boost until WOT.
Of course, modifying the AFC will change these characteristics, allowing the AFC arm to move fully with less than full boost.

__________________

'96 CTD, 4X4 flatbed, Isspro gauges, Skyjacker D-25's, ThurenFab track bar, lockRite.

Motor; BHAF, #100 fuel plate, Shimmed gov springs, Loose starwheel.

Exhaust; 16cm housing, 4" downpipe, 5" turnout stacks.

Trans; Dunrite VB/TC, Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.

[carolinarednek]

I'm in the same place as this guy. Stock truck, ready to start wrenching. I've been told that you need to get a larger turbo housing to take full effect of the fuel plate. Is this true? Also where is the best place to get the 16 cm housing, and is the exhaust outlet larger than stock? And I know this is going to sound stupid, what is an AFC? Air Flow Control?

[Racer9]

Originally Posted by carolinarednek

I'm in the same place as this guy. Stock truck, ready to start wrenching. I've been told that you need to get a larger turbo housing to take full effect of the fuel plate. Is this true? Also where is the best place to get the 16 cm housing, and is the exhaust outlet larger than stock? And I know this is going to sound stupid, what is an AFC? Air Flow Control?

VERY, VERY IMPORTANT, GET GAUGES FIRST.
Take a look at this 16cm turbine housing swap.
I got mine from High Tech Turbo
The outlet is the same as stock, but will be shorter due to not having the wastegate.
More good info CumminsDatabase.com :: Turning Up A P7100 Pump
Still more good AFC info Diesel Ram Forums: We cannot proceed.
Now, have fun, and smoke 'em when you got 'em.

__________________

'96 CTD, 4X4 flatbed, Isspro gauges, Skyjacker D-25's, ThurenFab track bar, lockRite.

Motor; BHAF, #100 fuel plate, Shimmed gov springs, Loose starwheel.

Exhaust; 16cm housing, 4" downpipe, 5" turnout stacks.

Trans; Dunrite VB/TC, Intelligent Engineering billet input shaft, Burt Brown rebuild/upgrade.