Fuel line replacement

dodgediesel59 · 06-26-2007, 04:20 PM

Im looking for opinions on fuel line replacement from tank to pump. First, can i just use regular steel line? Do the braided stainless hoses ever leak? Whats the best method to do it? Anybody know what size lines they are? Anybody sell kits?

__________________
Robert
1996 2500 4x4 60 horse injectors, custom ground fuel plate, timing at 17*, 3K govenor spring kit,boost, egt, and fuel pressure gauges, 5" dual stacks,

cjensen91910 · 06-26-2007, 06:18 PM

The sizes are 3/8 and 5/16, 3/8 being supply. Replace the lines all the way to the tank with diesel rated hose and good stainless fuel line clamps. Hose and clamps are available at most marine stores or online. Don't let goober at the parts store tell you his fuel line is OK, it isn't. You will have to measure the length. Mine is std cab long bed and I bought 20 ft of both giving me some spare line for the tool box.

__________________
95 Auto, billet TC and modded valve plate, BHAF, Aux lift pump, three position lockup switch, full gauges, #5 plate, no muffler and CAT is gutless. Timed at 15.5, full EGR brake package.

objectmaker · 06-27-2007, 07:50 AM

Just did the fuel line replacement from pump to tank a month ago. If you're small as a stick and have small hands you can get in from under the rear driver wheel well to detatch old hoses... I was almost small enough but ended up dropping the tank, make sure you're close to empty if you do as it's much easier than if it's full. Keep it clean and zip tie new lines to old ones as the old ones aren't worth the time trying to pull out unless you're a super fussy person and have time extra time on your hands. Not sure where your fuel filter is on the 96 but in my 98 it made a huge diffenece pulling it out to make room for my hands to tighten the rubber lines to the rigid lines near the pump. Make sure to tighten all your hose clamps and recheck them. I put a large clean unfolded box under my truck after I test drove it around the block and found I had not tightened one of the clamps tight enough... glad I found it then instead of having it fall off on the road. Good luck.

__________________

1998 Dodge RAM 2500, 12 V, Club Cab, LB, BHAF, #6FP, 3GSK, ISSPRO Gauges, 4" SS Exhaust, Bilsteins, tabbed KDP, Goerend Transmission, 164K

fefarms · 06-27-2007, 09:31 AM

Foster truck parts has a kit to replace the rubber hoses at the engine end. The kit is two two-foot pieces of hose and 4 stainless clamps. It is reasonably priced considering the hassle of running around town trying to get your own USCG rated hose.

I personally would leave the stock hard lines, braided lines, and polyethylene tank-end lines alone, unless the hard lines are cracked or rusted or known to be leaking. The factory chose those parts for good reasons. Messing with the tank and the quick-connect fittings will significantly add to the amount of work involved. Running new lines all the way from the tank requires dropping the tank, lifting the box, or both, in order to remove the quick connects, ensure the new tank ends are solidly connected, and route the lines inside the frame rail the way the factory did.

You can access the engine end of the fuel lines more easily by removing the two bolts that hold the master cylinder and pivoting the master cylinder to the side. For additional access, you can remove the brake booster by removing 4 bolts from inside the cab and disconnecting the pedal pushrod. If you remove the booster or master cylinder, handle the brake booster carefully and DO NOT push the brake pedal down by hand while the master cylinder is not connected. (The much longer brake pedal travel that results is likely to tear the brake booster diaphragm. This is from painful personal experience).

If you are seeing fuel leakage around the tank when the tank is nearly full, suspect the lid and gasket that hold the fuel delivery module in place, before you start messing with the poly lines. The lid on my tank was not even finger tight -- snugging it up fixed the problem for me.

dodgediesel59 · 06-27-2007, 05:42 PM

Well, becuase im in the process of restoring the truck and making it look non cobbled i bought 25 foot rolls of steel line . My plan was to junction the the old with a 4 inch chunk of diesel rated fuel line and 2 high pressure hose clamps on either side of junction. Im also going to drop the tank for the simple fact my fuel gauge reads full to 7/8 full empty. Im kinda trying to kill 2 birds with one stone i guess. I found the ultimate way for acess to engine fuel lines. I have a spare fender i was going to put on the driver side thats rust free, so i decided i would pull it off now to give myself the room i need. But, now that i can see whats going on i think i might have found the problem. When i was playing with some lines down there i heard some gurgiling kind of sounds, sounded like it was coming from the fuel filter so i played around with the valve on the bottom of the filter and think its bad. When then valve is fully closed you can push the prime button on the lift pump and fuel will squirt out the drain/ water sensor on the bottom of fuel filter. If you guys have any ideas as to why or if this is a problem that would be great.

__________________
Robert
1996 2500 4x4 60 horse injectors, custom ground fuel plate, timing at 17*, 3K govenor spring kit,boost, egt, and fuel pressure gauges, 5" dual stacks,

tractorpuller · 06-27-2007, 07:08 PM

No the drain should not leak like that.

__________________
97 extendedcab 4x4 auto;18*timing;SFS custom tuned afc custom ground plate;3k gsk; ISSPRO guages, 4" straight piped, bhaf, b&w gooseneck hitch, prodigy brake controller, kdp kia

dodgediesel59 · 06-29-2007, 05:22 AM

Hey guys,
Wondering if anyone else has opinions on this.
Thanks

__________________
Robert
1996 2500 4x4 60 horse injectors, custom ground fuel plate, timing at 17*, 3K govenor spring kit,boost, egt, and fuel pressure gauges, 5" dual stacks,

illflem · 06-29-2007, 10:36 AM

Sometimes a piece of debris will get on the drain valve seal and cause it to leak.
Remove and clean.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock

dodgediesel59 · 06-29-2007, 04:21 PM

Well, i got a new valve at the tune of 40 dollars and they must have had problems with it. The old one you could push up and it would click open, the new one is spring loaded to stay closed.

__________________
Robert
1996 2500 4x4 60 horse injectors, custom ground fuel plate, timing at 17*, 3K govenor spring kit,boost, egt, and fuel pressure gauges, 5" dual stacks,

06-26-2007, 04:20 PM	#1 (permalink)
dodgediesel59 Cummins Fan Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 78 dodgediesel59's Truck Pics	Fuel line replacement Im looking for opinions on fuel line replacement from tank to pump. First, can i just use regular steel line? Do the braided stainless hoses ever leak? Whats the best method to do it? Anybody know what size lines they are? Anybody sell kits? __________________ Robert 1996 2500 4x4 60 horse injectors, custom ground fuel plate, timing at 17*, 3K govenor spring kit,boost, egt, and fuel pressure gauges, 5" dual stacks,

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06-26-2007, 06:18 PM	#2 (permalink)
cjensen91910 Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: St Augustine FL Posts: 120 cjensen91910's Truck Pics	The sizes are 3/8 and 5/16, 3/8 being supply. Replace the lines all the way to the tank with diesel rated hose and good stainless fuel line clamps. Hose and clamps are available at most marine stores or online. Don't let goober at the parts store tell you his fuel line is OK, it isn't. You will have to measure the length. Mine is std cab long bed and I bought 20 ft of both giving me some spare line for the tool box. __________________ 95 Auto, billet TC and modded valve plate, BHAF, Aux lift pump, three position lockup switch, full gauges, #5 plate, no muffler and CAT is gutless. Timed at 15.5, full EGR brake package.

06-27-2007, 07:50 AM	#3 (permalink)
objectmaker Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: southern ohio Posts: 192 objectmaker's Truck Pics	Just did the fuel line replacement from pump to tank a month ago. If you're small as a stick and have small hands you can get in from under the rear driver wheel well to detatch old hoses... I was almost small enough but ended up dropping the tank, make sure you're close to empty if you do as it's much easier than if it's full. Keep it clean and zip tie new lines to old ones as the old ones aren't worth the time trying to pull out unless you're a super fussy person and have time extra time on your hands. Not sure where your fuel filter is on the 96 but in my 98 it made a huge diffenece pulling it out to make room for my hands to tighten the rubber lines to the rigid lines near the pump. Make sure to tighten all your hose clamps and recheck them. I put a large clean unfolded box under my truck after I test drove it around the block and found I had not tightened one of the clamps tight enough... glad I found it then instead of having it fall off on the road. Good luck. __________________ 1998 Dodge RAM 2500, 12 V, Club Cab, LB, BHAF, #6FP, 3GSK, ISSPRO Gauges, 4" SS Exhaust, Bilsteins, tabbed KDP, Goerend Transmission, 164K

06-27-2007, 09:31 AM	#4 (permalink)
fefarms Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 6 fefarms's Truck Pics	Foster truck parts has a kit to replace the rubber hoses at the engine end. The kit is two two-foot pieces of hose and 4 stainless clamps. It is reasonably priced considering the hassle of running around town trying to get your own USCG rated hose. I personally would leave the stock hard lines, braided lines, and polyethylene tank-end lines alone, unless the hard lines are cracked or rusted or known to be leaking. The factory chose those parts for good reasons. Messing with the tank and the quick-connect fittings will significantly add to the amount of work involved. Running new lines all the way from the tank requires dropping the tank, lifting the box, or both, in order to remove the quick connects, ensure the new tank ends are solidly connected, and route the lines inside the frame rail the way the factory did. You can access the engine end of the fuel lines more easily by removing the two bolts that hold the master cylinder and pivoting the master cylinder to the side. For additional access, you can remove the brake booster by removing 4 bolts from inside the cab and disconnecting the pedal pushrod. If you remove the booster or master cylinder, handle the brake booster carefully and DO NOT push the brake pedal down by hand while the master cylinder is not connected. (The much longer brake pedal travel that results is likely to tear the brake booster diaphragm. This is from painful personal experience). If you are seeing fuel leakage around the tank when the tank is nearly full, suspect the lid and gasket that hold the fuel delivery module in place, before you start messing with the poly lines. The lid on my tank was not even finger tight -- snugging it up fixed the problem for me.

06-27-2007, 05:42 PM	#5 (permalink)
dodgediesel59 Cummins Fan Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 78 dodgediesel59's Truck Pics	Well, becuase im in the process of restoring the truck and making it look non cobbled i bought 25 foot rolls of steel line . My plan was to junction the the old with a 4 inch chunk of diesel rated fuel line and 2 high pressure hose clamps on either side of junction. Im also going to drop the tank for the simple fact my fuel gauge reads full to 7/8 full empty. Im kinda trying to kill 2 birds with one stone i guess. I found the ultimate way for acess to engine fuel lines. I have a spare fender i was going to put on the driver side thats rust free, so i decided i would pull it off now to give myself the room i need. But, now that i can see whats going on i think i might have found the problem. When i was playing with some lines down there i heard some gurgiling kind of sounds, sounded like it was coming from the fuel filter so i played around with the valve on the bottom of the filter and think its bad. When then valve is fully closed you can push the prime button on the lift pump and fuel will squirt out the drain/ water sensor on the bottom of fuel filter. If you guys have any ideas as to why or if this is a problem that would be great. __________________ Robert 1996 2500 4x4 60 horse injectors, custom ground fuel plate, timing at 17*, 3K govenor spring kit,boost, egt, and fuel pressure gauges, 5" dual stacks,

06-27-2007, 07:08 PM	#6 (permalink)
tractorpuller Cummins Nut Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: maryland Posts: 482 tractorpuller's Truck Pics	No the drain should not leak like that. __________________ 97 extendedcab 4x4 auto;18*timing;SFS custom tuned afc custom ground plate;3k gsk; ISSPRO guages, 4" straight piped, bhaf, b&w gooseneck hitch, prodigy brake controller, kdp kia

06-29-2007, 05:22 AM	#7 (permalink)
dodgediesel59 Cummins Fan Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 78 dodgediesel59's Truck Pics	Hey guys, Wondering if anyone else has opinions on this. Thanks __________________ Robert 1996 2500 4x4 60 horse injectors, custom ground fuel plate, timing at 17*, 3K govenor spring kit,boost, egt, and fuel pressure gauges, 5" dual stacks,

06-29-2007, 10:36 AM	#8 (permalink)
illflem Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Montana Posts: 1,216 illflem's Truck Pics	Sometimes a piece of debris will get on the drain valve seal and cause it to leak. Remove and clean. __________________ Bill '95 2500 4wd auto '95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler Both far from stock

06-29-2007, 04:21 PM	#9 (permalink)
dodgediesel59 Cummins Fan Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 78 dodgediesel59's Truck Pics	Well, i got a new valve at the tune of 40 dollars and they must have had problems with it. The old one you could push up and it would click open, the new one is spring loaded to stay closed. __________________ Robert 1996 2500 4x4 60 horse injectors, custom ground fuel plate, timing at 17*, 3K govenor spring kit,boost, egt, and fuel pressure gauges, 5" dual stacks,