Front axle yoke - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Front axle yoke

There is one bolt broke off in the yoke thats on the front axle and to get all the rest out its gonna take heat and they may break. So i was wondering wat kinda yoke and need and where i can get it.


2001 2500 6 speed cummins: SO vp44, Fass 150, Gauges, 7x.010, .093 crossovers, powerpuck, BHAF, headbolts retorqued, Southbend Hydros, Budget Pushrods and springs.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 01:15 PM
Art
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I would try to reuse your yoke without removing it to avoid disturbing the pinion bearing crush sleeve.

To help get the screws loose, I give them a smart whack on the top of the head with a 1.5 lb hammer and a rigid punch. The blow loosens the threads.

Some of the factory screws I have seen used have a factory applied thread locking compound (nylock patch) that softens when heated. A little intense heat from the propane+oxygen cutting torch applied to the yoke in the vicinity of the threads is OK, but don't overheat it to the point that you damage the pinion seal.

On really stubborn ones, I have oxy-acetylene welded a nut onto the broken screw stub. The heat loosens it and the nut gives something to grab onto.

One other tip: LEFT HAND DRILL BITS. The heat and friction from drilling sometimes gets the screws stub out by itself.

Good luck from the rustbelt.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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alright ill try that the one screw is broke off down in there so should i just drill and tap it? thats the main reason i wanted to just get a new yoke and not worry bout it being weakened and the pinion seal should be replaced because its leaking.

2001 2500 6 speed cummins: SO vp44, Fass 150, Gauges, 7x.010, .093 crossovers, powerpuck, BHAF, headbolts retorqued, Southbend Hydros, Budget Pushrods and springs.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 01:39 PM
Art
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Well since the oil seal is leaking, it needs to come off then.

Here is a similar thread:

front end leak with pics

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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either way where can i get a new yoke?

2001 2500 6 speed cummins: SO vp44, Fass 150, Gauges, 7x.010, .093 crossovers, powerpuck, BHAF, headbolts retorqued, Southbend Hydros, Budget Pushrods and springs.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 02:25 PM
Art
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- Stealership (bring Vaseline)
- Ebay (search for both '7290' and 'Dana 60')
- Summit / Jegs (under Mopar Performance parts)
- Your local driveline service shop that builds driveshafts will probably be the cheapest/fastest
- Online axle parts company such as Reider Racing
- Or a junkyard for a used one.

You need a Dana 60 yoke (fyi, Dana 70 uses the same yoke and oil seal). It is 29 spline and I am pretty sure a 7290 U-joint. 7290 is 2-5/8" between the locating snap rings whereas 2-1/8" is the 7260 U-joint. I think it is even the exact same yoke used on the older 3/4 ton Dodge trucks Dana 60 rear axle as well as the 1966-1971 MoPar car Dana 60 application. Ford Dana 60 truck applications used different U-joints and therefore different yokes

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 02:35 PM
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Scoll down to the 'stores' section...A bit expensive, but you can get it in a hurry:

dana 60 7290. Great deals on eBay!

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 02:53 PM
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i would just use the one you got and go and spend 5 bucks on a reverse drill bit and make sure you get one that is a bit smaller than the hole then just slowly start cleaning out the threads with a tap. if you do it right you can keep the original thread pitch and size.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram tuff96 View Post
i would just use the one you got and go and spend 5 bucks on a reverse drill bit and make sure you get one that is a bit smaller than the hole then just slowly start cleaning out the threads with a tap. if you do it right you can keep the original thread pitch and size.
I certainly would too. Even if it meant thru-drilling it and placing a nut on the back end.

But, he insisted.

If one reuses the old yoke and reinstalls the pinion nut to the EXACT same position, the pinion bearing preload will be maintained.

I just hate crush sleeves....

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