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Old 01-25-2010, 10:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1996 Dodge Thermostat

I have installed four (4) new thermostats in my Diesel. None of them work right. I now have less heat that with the original.

The original doesnot look like the replacements. Any ideas?
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Get one from cummins or the stealership and make sure the hole is up top. Are you sure that you dont have an air bubble in the system, if you do yo wont get heat. Make sure when filling up the coolant that the front of the truck is a little higher than the back, exspecially the fill side. It sounds dumb but it helps get the air out when filling
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What make you think they are not working? Overheating? no heat from the vents?
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't mean to butt in, but I have the same problem. NO HEAT! The temp runs normal, but good cool air coming out of the vents.
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If the temp is up to normal and your lacking heat in the cab you likely have a blockage in the heater core (either on the antifreeze side or the air side) not allowing proper heat transfer.

If the temp gauge stays low you likely have a thermostat issue
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ykdave View Post
If the temp is up to normal and your lacking heat in the cab you likely have a blockage in the heater core (either on the antifreeze side or the air side) not allowing proper heat transfer.

If the temp gauge stays low you likely have a thermostat issue
What is actually normal on these trucks? This one runs just under half way.

"(either on the antifreeze side or the air side)"??????????
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Old 01-26-2010, 04:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nostroker View Post
What is actually normal on these trucks? This one runs just under half way.

"(either on the antifreeze side or the air side)"??????????
Normal operating temp is 180*. Your needle should read a fraction below the 190* mark on temp gauge.

What YKDave is saying is that you either have a blocked heater core preventing antifreeze from flowing through it or you have some type of air issue inside of cab not allowing air to flow through it. It could be either one. If it is a waterflow issue, I have read of some using CLR to flush core only. Most times when water won't flow I just replace because age will catch up with them eventually.
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Mine must be reading too low, I watched it again today while on a 50 miles hwy drive and it is actually just over a the 1/4 mark, well below the 190* 1/2 way point, so my thinking is t-stat problem and not running hot enough.

Make any sence?
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Mine must be reading too low, I watched it again today while on a 50 miles hwy drive and it is actually just over a the 1/4 mark, well below the 190* 1/2 way point, so my thinking is t-stat problem and not running hot enough.

Make any sence?
Try a piece of cardboard over the radiator.

Make SURE you cut a hole about the size of a 5 gallon bucket in the center of the cardboard so the fan can draw some air.

If the heat comes up good after that, you are just running too cold overall in the system, which can happen in really cold areas. I've covered most of my diesel truck radiators as a normal winter condition over all the years I've drove diesel truck equipment in Wisconsin. For big trucks, we get a winter front that snaps on over the grill shell with flaps that open to allow more or less air. Pickups could do that also, but cardboard is cheaper.

Just watch your temps once you do it.
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The main problem with low coolant temps on these trucks is they aren't being used for what they were designed for, work.
Put a load behind them and you'll glad the cooling system is massive.
Cummins got tired of people complaining about low temps so in '98 and turned the gauge into an idiot gauge that doesn't read the true temperature.
No more complaints.
But if you aren't getting enough heat in the cab try running the control set on recirculate.
If that doesn't work your heater core may be plugged.
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Has anyone tried putting a 12v or 24v electric pump in the heater supply line? This would be a bit of a job with the steel lines. I tried running on recirculate and the windows fogged up. I have been running with just the coolant radiator covered with a 4'' diameter hole in it and little or no noticeable heater improvement. I have checked all of the air valves. This is a design defect/problem that apparently corrected on later models. Driving this thing reminds me of the 1935 Ford my grandpa had with the only heat coming off the exhaust manifold, except the Ford would blow hot air when it got up to 50 MPH. I have been reluctant to cover the transmission and A/C radiators but will have to try that instead of just covering the coolant radiator and I should get by with it it when I am not pulling a load. The window sticker on this truck was $37,685 and for this I get to freeze my butt off in the winter. Has anyone had any experience with the 12 volt electric heaters that plug in to the accessory outlet? Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I run mine in recirc almost all the time in the winter.
No fogging problem if you just crack open a window.
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