So...convince me! Get a 12V?

JaredMTFD · 05-08-2007, 11:56 PM

I am loothat compares with my currently-modded 24V? (see signature for details)king to get a cheaper truck than the one I have now. I found a 1997 LongBed Quadcab 5Speed 4x4 12V with about 200K on it for $11,9K. I know that is a little high, but the main question is... will I be happy with the performance of a 12V after having a 24? I know nothing about the 12V engine, and I would be starting all over again learning how to work on them.

How much money am I looking at spending to make one perform in a way that compares with my modded 24v? (see signature for truck details) I want moderate power, but also good mileage. I'm getting 18-20 MPG with my 24V using the edge Comp, and I have plenty of passing/pulling power when needed. Can I expect the same results out of a 12V without spending major

?

***gstanfield*** · 05-09-2007, 07:34 PM

12V power is much cheaper, and milage is usually better (not always, but usually) I have a friend with around $600 in mods to his 24V and I can blow him away with my 12V and free mods.

The main factor for most people is this, do you want to turn wrenches for the power or do you want to plug in a computer? The 12V will make insane power, but more smoke (some like that better) the 12V will make the power cheaper as well, but you get greasy doing it.

BTW< the price on that truck seems a tad high, but depending on the shape it's in it may be worth it.

George

JaredMTFD · 05-09-2007, 07:39 PM

That's what I was wanting to hear. Could you (or anyone) point me to some threads/sites that give tips and techniques for modding the 12V? Where to start, and how things work? Thanks alot!

***gstanfield*** · 05-09-2007, 07:42 PM

just do some looking around in the 12V section here, but I'll give you a few things to look for (maybe key words for search?)

GSK (governer spring kit)
KDP (Killer Dowel Pin)
Fuel plate (Mine is a #100)
Timing (makes a big difference)

Of course all the usual upgrades apply such as injectors, turbo, guages, transmission, etc.

George

JaredMTFD · 05-09-2007, 07:53 PM

Thanks, key word are a big help, especially since the only key words I am use to are "chip", "programmer", "Edge Comp", "smarty", and other 24V lingo.

rbmchief · 05-09-2007, 08:44 PM

are you gonna sell your 24 valve?

JaredMTFD · 05-09-2007, 09:13 PM

Yes, it is for sale in AutoTrader. Already had two emails and one phone call. Shouldn't be too difficult. I will miss it greatly, but I need a cheaper vehicle. I just can't go back to a gasser! So, I think I might go the 12-Valve route.

mavrik4x4 · 05-10-2007, 08:38 AM

Ive had a 24valve auto, a 12valve manual, and now, a 12valve auto.
If you are going auto tranny, I really reccommend the 24valve. I liked how it drove and shifted, MUCH< MUCH better...
Manual, I like the 12valve.
I dont think it is even really because of the engines, so much as the tranny design in each generation.

NickTF · 05-10-2007, 08:50 AM

I went through this dilema myself. Ended up with a 12 valve and for what little i've spent on it thus far it's amazing how it's transformed from the 180 horsepower truck to guessing around 300 hp now with very little in modding at all.

It all comes down to this I think. If you are mechanically inclined and enjoy turning wrenches and learning new things then a 12v is for you. If you are not and like to full more with electronics then the 24 v is for you. They can both make great power but the 12 v has the edge in all out because of the p7100 it seems.

Boosted · 05-10-2007, 09:10 AM

Ihad a 98 12v auto 4X4 and sold it to get a 24v. Allot easier for me to make HP with it as I am not affraid of a computer. I have about $2700 in go fast goodies and making over 400hp.

I think both of them are great trucks, but I like the less mechanical work to get hp, no governer springs to worry with, no changing valve springs for an exhaust brake if you ever want one, a much better flowing head, trucks are nicer with the opening rear doors on the extra cab "You can get this on the late 98's also on the 12v" the dash and interior is a little nice design on the 24v's or late 98's

I have found it easier to keep what I had and upgrade or maintain it then down grading in price for another vehicle that may require more work than you might want to do. Also you know your truck and what it needs and what has been done along with the way it was done.

good luck with new purchase,,,

mike s · 05-15-2007, 01:48 PM

i'm looking at a 12v as well. a late 98 4x4 auto. thats in pretty good shape. it has leather, keyless, cd player and power seat. it is still bone stock and has 201000 miles on it. i can get it for 10k. my ? is, is this a good deal and what about the 201k is that to much. i know very little about the diesel so any info would help

***Ruckuz*** · 05-15-2007, 01:56 PM

I'd say thats a decent deal, if the body and frame are in decent shape, as well as the front end. Dunno what they go for in your area though.