Wanting to change my 410 to a 373 rear end - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 94-98 12V Forums > 94-98 Powertrain
94-98 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect...NO ADVERTISING

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Old 12-10-2009, 01:44 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Wanting to change my 410 to a 373 rear end

I have a 95 12v with a 4:10 rear end. I am wanting to change it out for a 3:73. i have been told i will get better fuel mileage an faster highway speeds. Since right now at wide open i do about 82 mph. i also pull will it majorly affect my pulling?
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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really? ive heard this complant before but my 410's can hit 90+ with ease on the freeway...

I mean i too would like 373's but only to lower my revs at 75mph. Do you really want to cruise at 90mph in this thing?
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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With 3.73s, it will take 10% more torque to turn the pinion gear, which means you'll be putting 10% more stress on your transmission, U-joints, etc.

To make up for that, you'll lower your rpms by 10% which should put you into a better rpm range to make power and will almost certainly help your highway mileage.

I went from 4.10s to 3.55s (a 15% change) and couldn't be happier. I haven't pulled any really heavy loads with the new gears, but my rpms at 65 dropped from 2100 to 1800 where the engine seems to work the best. At 75, the truck runs at 2100 now instead of 2250 where it was right on the edge of falling on it's face. My mileage at 65 went from 18 to 24.

You just have to ask yourself whether it's worth losing 10% of your power and putting 10% more stress on your drivetrain to drop your rpms by 10%.
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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whats involved in changing the rear end ratio? a job that can be done in the driveway or a shop?
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Old 12-10-2009, 03:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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No i dont want to crusie 90+ in it i wouldnt mine being able to crusie a 75 or 80 sometimes an not be wide open...... this would be a home job swapinig out rear ends... My truck also has a low geared tranny also wat is that going to do to affect it. i have a granny 5speed so really only 4 gears
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Old 12-10-2009, 03:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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No i dont want to crusie 90+ in it i wouldnt mine being able to crusie a 75 or 80 sometimes an not be wide open...... this would be a home job swapinig out rear ends... My truck also has a low geared tranny also wat is that going to do to affect it. i have a granny 5speed so really only 4 gears
It won't do much to your tranny, but taller gears will be tougher on your clutch.
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Old 12-10-2009, 03:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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this is making me glad i got the auto and not the stick.

did all NV4500's have that granny 1st? the 47RE has a wicked OD that apparantly drops the revs 2-300 rpm more than the 5th gear OD of the NV4500...
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Old 12-10-2009, 04:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The factory gears for your truck were either 4:10's or 3:54's. Unless you are towing real heavy quite often, or running some hero tire size your truck will be happier with the 3:54's.
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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whats involved in changing the rear end ratio? a job that can be done in the driveway or a shop?
It can be done in the driveway, but should be done by someone who understands the terms "backlash", "pinion depth", and "bearing preload". Additionally, the right tools are needed - including at minimum a dial indicator and a case spreader.

The tolerance on the pinion depth setting (i.e. position) is +/- 0.002"

If done properly, the gearsets will run quiet and last. If done improperly, the gearsets will at least make noise and worst case fail.

I have done several ratio changes on Dana axles (driveway, workbench, racetrack), and none of them made noise.

Where are you located at? I am in SE Wisconsin.

The other (and many times easier too) option is to get an entire axle assembly with the right ratio and swap it all into your truck. I do have some 3.54 Dana 70 rear axles out of 1992 and 1994 3/4 ton Ram trucks.
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Old 12-10-2009, 07:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I would love to swap out mine to 3.54, I have 4.10s now and im putting in a 6 speed in a few weeks and will no longer need 4.10s.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have a 5 speed and 4.10's and I almost always take off in second unless I'm towing over 3000 pounds. I ended up putting 35 inch terra grapplers which helped a bit, but I still take off in second most of the time. With the right back spacing on the wheels, my 35's fit on there stock with no lift and no wheel rub. I imagine that's much cheaper than regearin, and even if you do rub a little, a new set of coil spring and the tires will still be cheaper than regearing. That's just my two cents. Not every body likes the big tires but it adds a nice look and fills in those wheel wells a little bit.
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Old 12-15-2009, 10:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It can be done in the driveway, but should be done by someone who understands the terms "backlash", "pinion depth", and "bearing preload". Additionally, the right tools are needed - including at minimum a dial indicator and a case spreader.

The tolerance on the pinion depth setting (i.e. position) is +/- 0.002"

If done properly, the gearsets will run quiet and last. If done improperly, the gearsets will at least make noise and worst case fail.

I have done several ratio changes on Dana axles (driveway, workbench, racetrack), and none of them made noise.

Where are you located at? I am in SE Wisconsin.

The other (and many times easier too) option is to get an entire axle assembly with the right ratio and swap it all into your truck. I do have some 3.54 Dana 70 rear axles out of 1992 and 1994 3/4 ton Ram trucks.
Art,
Thanks for the info. I am out in socal

So basically the easiest thing to do sounds like is to grab the entire rear axle. I would imagine though, that it is heavier than a pregnant elephant. Where are you guys buying your gear sets anyway?
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